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what model turbosmart actuator are you using?

What exactly does main hoop mean? Where is the best spot for the angle finder?

Good to know which one we need. Just an update on the standalone: I reached out to RPM but haven't gotten a response. I talked with Ace Motorsports and they said they used a Link G4 Fury with the LSJ in a Ariel Atom. They used most of the stock sensors, most noticeably the stock cam and crank...

This is really interesting and I will give them a call. If this is a real standalone that is a decent price, hopefully it’s not just a custom p12.

Sweet, I didn’t search for this specifically but should of. I mostly tried to find threads of others running aftermarket ecu’s but haven’t found much. I think it should be fairly straightforward to remove the potentiometer and wire it up as an input to be used against rpm/speed.

Has anyone used a Saturn Vue / Chevy Equinox power steering in their goblin? The reason I am asking is I would like to eventually run an aftermarket standalone ecu on the car and remove the stock ecu/bcm. The only thing I would like to keep is power steering. It looks like they are identical but...

Yeah I had to order some different probes because I didn't want to damage the fuse slot with the one I have. I'll try it out.

The ECM/Trans fuse looked fine but was replaced just to be sure. I have not tried to probe c5,b3 but c1,e6 to the boost solenoid is not getting 12v with ignition on.

Finally got another chance to work on the goblin. Unfortunately, the pink wire at the solenoid is not getting 12v with ignition on.... The pink wire from the fuse block(C1, E6) to the solenoid looks good. The IGN1 fuse is also in a good state. The p0230 code was solved by replacing the relay.

The fuse looks good and I have tried to trace back the entire circuit and have not found the issue yet. Is the g101 ground the ground coming from the white fuse block connector?

Your actually correct, it looks like it goes to one of the ECM fuses. The gray wire goes to the ecu and the tan wire controls the gauge. Going to look at that fuse now. The red wire for the gauge can actually come from the front bcm.

I also did go back and clean most of these connections up. They looked pretty rough. For the solenoid, it looks like it just has two wires: a red and grey with the red going to the boost gauge and the grey going to the ECM. Going to check those and see what I find. I know I have the tan wire...

So I went through all the wires and checking everything, here is what I found: 1. The PURPLE injector and maf harness got swapped - which was the cause of the injector/maf codes... 2. The starter to fuse block power wire was not connected properly somehow, when I replaced the starter it did not...

I was able to trace back the fuel pump ground which looks good and reseated the fuse block. It's basically running the same but I was able to get more codes. This explains why it doesn't run super well, just unsure if all these circuits are related or if it's something to do with the fuse block...

I would check all your fuse block connections and the wires connecting to the starter. I know you may have checked them already, but give them a hard look. Do you have any trouble codes?

update: I am now getting a p0230 fuel pump code. Going to trace through the electrical and figure out the issue - I have seen others with fried boards so hoping for the best at this point.

I wanted to 3d print a bracket, but it was easier for me to weld a piece of 2x2 block aluminum with drilled holes to some flat bar stock. That bracket looks really nice, but I wanted the bracket to sit behind the led so you could not see it. I didn't realize that others would want these - I may...

update: tried letting the car idle for a bit so I could fill it with water and check for any leaks in the an fittings. I noticed some smoke on start but it's not too bad unless I give it throttle. Car was idling fine but didn't like any throttle, I'm going to try replacing the bypass valve...

update: I finished the rest of the headlight wiring and pretty much went back through all the electrical. I found that reseating the rear fuse block without the connectors already in the tray actually let me align them better. I think the root of the issue may of been the headlight wires causing...

I have the MAF disconnected and may need to try this...