Awesome, you're designing around the F23 shifter, any reason why this wont work on the F23 and F35?Confidence is high. It’s far from perfect but it’s a very good start.
I had started my own dedicated design similar to factory five. However when I found this I had to give a try, as I’m not even sure I could buy the raw aluminum for what that thing costs.
It’s a copy of the Ktuned RSX shifter. Brass bushings and everything. I’m going to add additional set screws to fine tune the tension etc etc etc.
If this works as well as I expect it to it could be a very reasonably priced upgrade.
If you weld a flat plate above shifter 1 (in blue), then you could move the cable attachment point up to the red circle, it would reverse the left/right movement. The black cross is a measurement line. The distance from the current cable attach point to the center cross pivot point could be extended that same amount, above the current pivot point to the red attach point.#1 is left/right, #2 is fwd/bkwdView attachment 10392
It should work with bothAwesome, you're designing around the F23 shifter, any reason why this wont work on the F23 and F35?
Yes that would be a good way. I’ll try and take that linkage off tomorrow, I don’t remember how it’s attached.If you weld a flat plate above shifter 1 (in blue), then you could move the cable attachment point up to the red circle, it would reverse the left/right movement. The black cross is a measurement line. The distance from the current cable attach point to the center cross pivot point could be extended that same amount, above the current pivot point to the red attach point.
View attachment 10393
No reason. Same logic would work on our F35.Awesome, you're designing around the F23 shifter, any reason why this wont work on the F23 and F35?
Or add a shaft on the other side, and mount it vertically.Pops off easy. Def thinking this is the way to go, thanks Ross.
View attachment 10394
the Getrag has an internal reverse lockout. There is not one externalThat's awesome, do you think it was worth the effort to not use the reversing cranks?
Understand directly connecting to the shifter removes a few stacking tolerances and play, but removing the plastic socket joins and going to a rod end that connects to the new shifter seems like it would work, may have to shorten or lengthen the tie rods. Route out a plate to match the existing bolt pattern plus a few holes for the bolt pattern of the new assembly and go. No modifying the transmission mount, no new cable holder.
Might be over simplifying it. When I get back from vacation going to buy one of these shifter assemblies.
Does it have a reverse lockout?