Anti-Theft

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
Thought it might be better to start a new thread for some no start issues. Tried to crank it for the first time and heard a click from the fusebox, and then nothing else happened. Tried to crank again then no click from fusebox and basically no other noises. Checked fuses and all seem to be good. Noticed on dash the antitheft icon had popped up, did a little reading and found that it is supposed to turn off after 3 seconds but mine stays on. Another post said that he swapped two wires but I couldn't find any that seemed to be swapped for me. Do I have to buy an HP Tuners credit and go in and disable the anti theft to fix this?

Some other notable things about my electrical system is I do not have the receiver up front by the BCM that controls the key fob. I also cannot find the connector that goes to the top of supercharger, nothing seems to even reach up there.
36860


What tests should I run?
Thanks!
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
A key relearn will clear the passkey (security) light .

that connector should be on the engine harness, not touched in the wiring harness modifications.
 

jirwin

Goblin Guru
That connector isn't plugged in on my supercharged 2.2L, will likely be the same if you are a 2.2/2.4.
 

Goblinfanclub1234

Well-Known Member
I would try this next, but there is also a chance that the ignition is not reading your key correctly, double check the connectors at the ignition??

 
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Keckster

Well-Known Member
I don't know if your car was running and driving before you tore the cobalt apart but I had an issue with getting my keys to learn the anti theft. I tried every relearn method but nothing worked. I wish I saved the page but after many hours searching for similar problems on the internet I found something about the car losing what's called the master key in it's programming. I went to ace, got a brand new unprogrammed key and it picked it up first try!
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
I don't know if your car was running and driving before you tore the cobalt apart but I had an issue with getting my keys to learn the anti theft. I tried every relearn method but nothing worked. I wish I saved the page but after many hours searching for similar problems on the internet I found something about the car losing what's called the master key in it's programming. I went to ace, got a brand new unprogrammed key and it picked it up first try!
Got it, the car luckily did run before hand but if nothing else works I will try that.
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
Just tried to do the re-learn process and it didn't work. The process I used was wait 10 minutes for anti theft light to turn off then turn the car off then on again and do that twice more. The anti-theft light never turned off but we did the whole process anyway and no luck. At this point is there anything else we should do before trying an new key?
 

Goblinfanclub1234

Well-Known Member
if the relearn will not work this makes me think that the ECU is unable to read the key you have.

you mentioned that you do not have the key fob receiver, was the receiver in the donor when it was working? dont know how this affects the system to be honest.

another thought, the car has to be in neutral to start if it is auto trans. probably wont affect the anti theft light though.
 
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KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
Car is a manual, so if the receiver doesn't have anything to do with it should I just buy another key? Or I suppose I could do something with HP tuners right?
 

Keckster

Well-Known Member
If you have hptuners already it might work but a new key is probably cheaper if you don't. I had the same symptom before where the theft light wouldn't even turn off when learning as well...
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Another thing to note. Look at these “identical” keys. One can be programmed to the VATS (security system) and one can’t. The one with the “+” is the only one that will work with VATS.
28D18DE1-EEED-4133-A8ED-905E58298AA0.jpeg
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
Ok just looked at my key and it has the +
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Does this mean something else is wrong or will trying a new key still work? I will probably try a new key anyway just wondering.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Could be something else wrong. The “chip” in the key is simply a resistor In the handle. when programmed, the vats is just reading the key‘s resistance. It can store 5 of them, then start to overwrite ones not used. Theoretically a new key shouldn’t matter compared to a old key, but I have seen stranger things happen.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Car is a manual, so if the receiver doesn't have anything to do with it should I just buy another key? Or I suppose I could do something with HP tuners right?
With key on does the security light go off now?

if it does, at key on, so you hear the throttle body cycle s d fuel pump activate?
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
Ok so a little update:

Got a new key today from the chevy dealer and took it back and programmed it. This time the program worked but after the third time when I took the key out the anti-theft triggered again. I was at a loss until I thought that maybe since we had the rear of the car jacked up it was triggering the antitheft. I un-jacked it and went to turn it on and this time luckily the anti-theft light was out. Tried to crank it but there was nothing from the starter, instead there was a ton of noise from the fusebox which sounded like a machine gun. I didn't know what to do and found someone else on the forum that tried to see if there started motor was working by removing the starter relay and jumping it, when I did that the anti-theft turned on again and now won't turn off. I am going to try to reprogram the key again and see what happens. How do I test if my starter motor is good? I realized that when I was attaching the large positive to its post I accidentally hit the starter stud right below it and the car started clicking a bunch until I separated them. Could this mean I shorted or did something to my starter? What other things might be leading to these issues?
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
BCM/fusebox relay chatter could be a low battery or poor connection - most times a ground. The attempt to jump the starter will likely trigger the anti theft (if it is smart enough).

It's hard to say what might be going on with your starter, since it sounds like there was some incorrect connections made. It would be best to start with the basics - look at fuses first, then check relays (swap), and then recheck connections for contact and tightness.
 
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KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
Just tried the key reprogram, didn't work. Going to keep retrying but might have to get a new key again :mad:. Is there a way I can order all of the relays in bulk or something? Not really sure where I could get all of them. Also, the chatter was not coming from the BCM it was coming from the fuse box, I will try to get a video if I can get the antitheft disabled.
 
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