ATI Super Damper Removal
- Thread starter jirwin
- Start date
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Hope step #4 in the instructions were followed when it was originally installed! 
OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
If you don't clearance the crank with the ATI Damper according to spec prior to installation you're going to have one hell of a time getting it off. Ask me how I know
You'll also want to extend your crank's keyway so the damper fits on the key when you press it on. The stock key is too short and by the time your damper gets to that stock key you're already too committed to back it off without a hassle. So you're left kinda hoping she's on there.
The damper is expensive by itself, paying for the machining isn't going to be cheap even if you can find someone to do it in a timely manner.
Long story short, I don't think it's worth it (and have gone back to stock)
You'll also want to extend your crank's keyway so the damper fits on the key when you press it on. The stock key is too short and by the time your damper gets to that stock key you're already too committed to back it off without a hassle. So you're left kinda hoping she's on there.
The damper is expensive by itself, paying for the machining isn't going to be cheap even if you can find someone to do it in a timely manner.
Long story short, I don't think it's worth it (and have gone back to stock)
jirwin
Goblin Guru
Trying to understand, but its hard without the engine in front of me to work on right now. This is the keyway you're talking about I assume:
Extending it would mean making a new key, and having the keyway cut out longer towards the end of the crank (to the end of the crank?). The whole problem is, you start pressing it onto the crank, but you may be misaligned with the keyway, but at that point its already on and its a bear to take it back off and start again? Do I have that right?
My engine is getting some machine work done right now, so now would be the time if any I guess.
Extending it would mean making a new key, and having the keyway cut out longer towards the end of the crank (to the end of the crank?). The whole problem is, you start pressing it onto the crank, but you may be misaligned with the keyway, but at that point its already on and its a bear to take it back off and start again? Do I have that right?
My engine is getting some machine work done right now, so now would be the time if any I guess.
OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
Yep! exactly right.
This key is actually separate from the crank itself, you may be able to trial and error a longer key to fit as opposed to machine one or weld something on.
The TC crank bolt is torque to yield (I'd assume the same for others), save your old crank pully bolt to 'press' the new ATI Damper onto the crank, then use a new TTY crank pully bolt when the rest of your assembly is installed and ready to go.
jirwin
Goblin Guru
Thank you for the information. I hadn't even thought about the crank pulley bolt being TTY, so that will go on the "things to order" list.
To further clarify, this is not a strength issue with the crank key/keyway, this is purely an installing issue - being a PITA to install.
Also, do you know if its normally done all the way to the end of the crank or just longer?
To further clarify, this is not a strength issue with the crank key/keyway, this is purely an installing issue - being a PITA to install.
Also, do you know if its normally done all the way to the end of the crank or just longer?
OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
It's more for peace of mind and ensuring your future self is much more appreciative of your current self when you inevitably take it off for some reason or another. I still curse my previous self.
Another tip, when you go to install the damper you can put it in warm / boiling water and it'll help when you go to press it on to the crank. I don't think the key to the end is necessary but if it's all the same go for it. You just need it long enough to confirm the damper is on and the key isn't all galled up because you missed and kept going. I guess you scribe/score the crank where the key is to the end and line it up that way too.
ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
I did not extend my keyway but (2) things that stick out that are great advice in addition. Boiling water to heat up would have helped install and anti-seize for removal.
I also have not removed mine yet...and im scared to.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
A little judicious heating of the damper shaft with a heat gun may help.