Audio Options

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I was thinking about audio options for the Goblin this morning and thought it might be nice to have a focal point on the forum (this thread) where we can lay out our audio options and discuss pros/cons, and maybe give each other some ideas.

Through my late teens and 20's, I was pretty into car audio solutions. I did installs for myself, friends, and clients, ranging from very simple, to more custom and complex setups. I was personally never interested in winning an SPL competition, though I did a few big installs like that for friends and clients. With that said, a few things:

  1. I won't be looking at big subwoofer setups for my Goblin. I'm a standard frame, so barely any room behind the seats. With this being an open-air car, it would be tough to make it work as well as a more traditional, closed-cabin vehicle.
  2. I've come to trust a certain subset of brands that deliver what is, to me, quality sound. For that reason, I won't be recommending any Boss Audio, Pyle, etc. setups here.
  3. Some of us can fab metal, but I suspect more of us cannot. While I would love to go with a full-on DIN head-unit, I can't/won't be designing a custom dash and therefore will be looking at options that will work without that.
Option #1

MTX Audio MUDSYS31, 41, or 46



Links:

MTX MUDSYS31
MTX MUDSYS41
MTX MUDSYS46

This series of "sound bars" is more like a fully-featured head unit/amp/speaker solution for ATV's. It is Bluetooth-ready, has AM/FM radio, and AUX IN. The only functional difference between these three systems is the width of the roll bars/cage supported by each one. This setup would be great for a track frame; since I do not have a track frame, I don't know the width of the halo and thus, cannot say which one of the above models would be appropriate. Having a city frame myself, and I'd love to adapt one of these systems to mount behind the seats on the overhead roll bar, but I don't think it's possible without fabricating a new mounting system.

This would be my first choice, because it has four total 6.5" two-way speakers and would probably produce the best sound of this bunch. Anyone have any thoughts on a way to get this unit mounted to the roll bar? I'd love a 3D-printable STL file! :cool:

Pros:
  1. Potentially the best sound of the bunch
  2. One-piece system, easiest setup
Cons:
  1. Won't fit city frames properly without custom mounts
  2. Within plain view (so easy to identify and steal)
Option #2

MTX Audio MUD6SPBT



Link:

MTX MUD6SPBT

This is a smaller version of option #1, and less feature-rich. The amp is weaker, and the speakers are smaller, but the mounting system looks perfect for us city frame folks. It retains the Bluetooth connectivity option #1 has, so it's still fine for those of us that have no plans to install a custom dash or aftermarket head unit. This is my second choice, because I don't think this bar will be able to provide the level of sound quality that option #1 can, but should be a breeze to install without any custom mounting.

Pros:
  1. One-piece system, easiest setup
  2. Appears to be a perfect fit for city frames
Cons:
  1. Less features (no AM/FM radio, dome light, etc)
  2. Potentially less sound quality/output, compared to option 1
  3. Within plain view (so easy to identify and steal)
Option #3

Kenwood KAC-M1824BT 4-channel amp and Kicker 40PSM34

amp.jpg
speakers.jpg


Links:

Kenwood KAC-M1824BT
Kicker 40PSM34

I liked this option a lot originally, because it would be well-hidden and less obvious of a target for theft. Since the amp is 4-channel, you can add a second set of Kicker speakers later if you desire, perhaps clamped to the roll bar.

Pros:
  1. Will work equally fine in a city or track frame
  2. Easily expanded with a second set of speakers, later
  3. Not easily spotted, so less potential for theft
Cons:
  1. Less features than any of the above options
  2. More difficult/complicated to install, since it is multiple pieces
  3. Potentially less sound quality/output than option #1, though should be better/equal to option #2
Bonus Option

Bazooka BTA6250D 6" bass tube (or BT6014 if you go with an option like #3)

tube1.jpg
tube2.jpg


Link:

Bazooka BTA6250D
Bazooka BT6014

I like the idea of adding an external subwoofer to these cars, but for guys without the extended frame, it would be difficult. I have yet to check into whether this would work in terms of dimensions of the tubes vs. the available space above the fuel tank, but I do think it would fit.

20210205_104140.jpg

The first link (the BTA6250D) is a self-amplified version while the second link (the BT6014) is non-amplified and would need external power amplification. You would want to use the BTA6250D with a sound-bar-style system like options #1 and #2, while you would want to use the BT6014 with a separate amp/speaker system like option #3.

Pros:
  1. Would add some level of bass to any of the above options
  2. While still visible to the outside world, it is still somewhat hidden and theft of this tube would be a pain in the butt and probably not worth the risk to interested parties
Cons:
  1. Durability concerns: would the tube hold up to the engine heat?
  2. Fitment concerns: does it actually fit above the fuel tank? How would you mount it?
  3. Sound quality concerns: open-air car ... would it actually sound decent?
Anyone with audio aspirations for your Goblin, please consider adding your thoughts!
 
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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Ark, great idea starting this thread. I will have to take a closer look at these options. I'm sure I will have some other options to add to this. ;)
 

Towerdog

Well-Known Member
I have a similar past, Even had my own shop for awhile.
My latest build was for my SXS and I went with Noam speakers. I did not go with one of their kits as I wanted a gage style head unit with a knob and XM capability
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_867WSMC2/Wet-Sounds-WS-MC-2.html?tp=96441
Anyway I added a 400 watt RMS 4 Ch amp and Ohhh my word I have never been so impressed with a set of speakers! With the amp at half power it is louder than you can stand and crystal clear.
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
I've been thinking about this as well and I never thought of sound bars before... I think it may be too "in plain sight" though... so thats a big con.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I've been thinking about this as well and I never thought of sound bars before... I think it may be too "in plain sight" though... so thats a big con.
I think so as well. Option #2 at least uses Allen-style screws, instead of Phillips screws or something equally easy to remove. I'd guess the screws are replaceable with something even more non-standard from a hardware store, too.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
To add another sound bar system to the list ... I really like the looks of this one, too. Might represent a great middle ground between options #1 and #2, for us city framers. This one also includes an RF remote and mounting clamp, which would be really nice for a sound bar that's mounted behind the seats.

Wet Sounds Stealth 6 Ultra
 

k.rollin

Well-Known Member
I always wear a helmet in mine and have found the Cardo Freecom 4 with the JBL speakers to be a pretty good option for that crowd.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I've been looking at this audio stuff for half the day now, and I am leaning toward doing a separate amp with some kind of wakeboard-style speakers. Reason being, I want the power to my audio system controlled by one of my secondary dash buttons, and the remote-in wire on an amp is perfect for that. It seems like the sound bars would need to be turned on every time using the power button on the face of the unit, while traditional amps only need +12v on the remote-in wire.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Ran across this one, looks promising. It's completely hidden except for a toggle switch sized controller, and it has lots of features. Just throwing this option into the ring.

 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Ran across this one, looks promising. It's completely hidden except for a toggle switch sized controller, and it has lots of features. Just throwing this option into the ring.
That's an intriguing option. I like that it allows you to retain AM/FM radio and USB input.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
6.5’s fit great in the rear cowling humps and they’re right behind your head. I’m running a 10” kicker hideway sub right behind the driver seat. I had to dynamat the firewall & inside of the tunnel cover to eliminate rattle. I’m running 5.25’s in my dash, but these could also be put in pods. The 4 Polk marine mids are powered by a small 4 channel Memphis amp. This system is extremely loud and exceeds all of my expectations.

E064919A-666B-4B54-96CE-99245E88F245.jpeg
A98E433D-AC12-435F-9FFB-96421C0AB45B.jpeg
F1DAC9CB-A939-4078-BBB3-5819AC1D3D26.jpeg
F94A9DDF-7C06-451F-A86E-B9527218A769.jpeg


 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Interesting on the 6.5's in the engine cover, I must have missed that in your build thread. How do you think they would sound as the only two speakers in the car? I suspect the highs would be a bit muffled, since they're behind the seats...
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
Interesting on the 6.5's in the engine cover, I must have missed that in your build thread. How do you think they would sound as the only two speakers in the car? I suspect the highs would be a bit muffled, since they're behind the seats...
They sound great, but I certainly wouldn’t make them the only two speakers. Definitely need a front soundstage. Before I decided to do a dash, I was simply going to mount 5.25’s in pods and fasten them to the forward frame. I wanted to keep the install as stealthy as possible.

I would also absolutely recommend a sub. This Kicker is simply amazing and it makes all of the difference. With how limited we are on space, these hideaway style style subwoofers are a great option to go behind the seats.
In hingsight, I would have gone with an extended frame and built a low profile box with an 8” sub, but this is good enough.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I'm thinking about using my footwell cover as a mounting point for the midrange speakers in a component set. I'm going to try to find out how much clearance there is between the footwell cover and the hood ... should be enough space to fit a shallow speaker in there, particularly toward the front of the cover.
 
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