Karter2026
Goblin Guru
What headlights are you using?
BAR-AIR's build up in Buffalo N.Y.
- Thread starter BAR-AIR
- Start date
Balphamore
Active Member
Bar I have a quick question for you about the intercooler and the ducting. Curious if you intend to run the engine cover as well? I was looking at it. And thought if you fabricated a fiberglass piece that would span the area between the humps on it. Then cut an opening near the points of the humps. In-between them causing in effect the humps to become a scoop of sorts. Would that drive air back to the intercooler? And help the intercooler work better? I know sounds a bit odd. Thanks for a moment of your time. And like how your goblin has turned out.
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
Good Evening,
Yes we have been looking at all different ways to route the air back through the intercooler. The biggest issue we are have is the stagnant air behind the windshield there is basically no air flow to the intercooler. I am keeping the intercooler in the current position because the mount for the catalytic converter is also integrated into the same mount. And I need that catalytic converter for my DOT inspection. Have been looking at Indy style air scoops to make scoop that extends above the rear roll bar to get it up into the undisturbed air flow (dimensions 21" tall by 4" wide oval scoop)
-sorry of the inverted image-
Some thing of this nature. The other thing is mounts for the engine cover on the older frames is on the top of the rear tube (not angled off the back of the rear tube like on the newer frames) make the attachment of the rear cover more of an issue. So I'll most likely end up making an entirely new engine cover with some sort of air scoop intergrated into it.
Basically my progress has been very slow, car is running but still trying to get everything inline for the NYS DOT inspection the only real help I have gotten is the emergency brake mounts (still have to work out the lever and cables). Everything else has been had to be fabricated by me. So everyone in states, with more stringent DOT inspections be ready to fabricate your own parts (bumpers,windshields,wipers,catalytic converter, DOT lights) I'm getting close but still waiting on fender mounts (I can build a 32 Ford with open wheels but a new car has to have fenders). So again 1 step forward and 2 steps back.....
Yes we have been looking at all different ways to route the air back through the intercooler. The biggest issue we are have is the stagnant air behind the windshield there is basically no air flow to the intercooler. I am keeping the intercooler in the current position because the mount for the catalytic converter is also integrated into the same mount. And I need that catalytic converter for my DOT inspection. Have been looking at Indy style air scoops to make scoop that extends above the rear roll bar to get it up into the undisturbed air flow (dimensions 21" tall by 4" wide oval scoop)
-sorry of the inverted image-
Some thing of this nature. The other thing is mounts for the engine cover on the older frames is on the top of the rear tube (not angled off the back of the rear tube like on the newer frames) make the attachment of the rear cover more of an issue. So I'll most likely end up making an entirely new engine cover with some sort of air scoop intergrated into it.
Basically my progress has been very slow, car is running but still trying to get everything inline for the NYS DOT inspection the only real help I have gotten is the emergency brake mounts (still have to work out the lever and cables). Everything else has been had to be fabricated by me. So everyone in states, with more stringent DOT inspections be ready to fabricate your own parts (bumpers,windshields,wipers,catalytic converter, DOT lights) I'm getting close but still waiting on fender mounts (I can build a 32 Ford with open wheels but a new car has to have fenders). So again 1 step forward and 2 steps back.....
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
I wonder if side air scoops, starting prior to the rear wheel would work. Could be 12"-18" tall, 3"-6" wide opening spanning the height. This would help channel air past the sides of the engine back to the intercooler exhaust area and smooth out stagnant/turbulent air at the back of the car.
Kind of Indy car stylish, If that makes sense.
I've been contemplating doing something like this for my heat exchanger (with a fan) instead of mounting it in the nose.
Kind of Indy car stylish, If that makes sense.
I've been contemplating doing something like this for my heat exchanger (with a fan) instead of mounting it in the nose.
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
This style hood scoops that could be used as the side scoops or something like them. Dependent upon space limitations.
Probably would require a flat side panel to mount scoops to.
Just a thought.
Probably would require a flat side panel to mount scoops to.
Just a thought.
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
Yeah guys I'm just going to bolt it right on and leave it!!!!
I picked it up just as a reference (wasn't sure of the scale in comparison to the actual car). For the $100 it was worth it just to be able to cut it up and play with the air intake to get the correct sizing.
I picked it up just as a reference (wasn't sure of the scale in comparison to the actual car). For the $100 it was worth it just to be able to cut it up and play with the air intake to get the correct sizing.
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
Emergency brake and cables installed (similar to the way pherder installed his) just too tight to run the cables in the up position.
6mm riv nuts work out really well in the existing holes on the engine cradle to attach the adle clamps for the emergency brake cables.
Still need to cut the channel cover in the car to add a raised version of the cover to mount the new emergency brake handle.
A little difficult to make out but you can see the cable mounted windshield wipers. Still need to work out placement of the motor. ( I know a couple of guys on the forum are good with the 3D printers looking to try a use the existing Cobalt windshield wiper motor and remove the existing wiper mechanism and add disk to it that can convert circular motion to horizontal motion I only need about 2 - 2 1/2" of motion to work the wipers "SUGGESTIONS ?"
6mm riv nuts work out really well in the existing holes on the engine cradle to attach the adle clamps for the emergency brake cables.
Still need to cut the channel cover in the car to add a raised version of the cover to mount the new emergency brake handle.
A little difficult to make out but you can see the cable mounted windshield wipers. Still need to work out placement of the motor. ( I know a couple of guys on the forum are good with the 3D printers looking to try a use the existing Cobalt windshield wiper motor and remove the existing wiper mechanism and add disk to it that can convert circular motion to horizontal motion I only need about 2 - 2 1/2" of motion to work the wipers "SUGGESTIONS ?"
JSATX
Goblin Guru
I’m willing to print you something but don’t understand what it is you need. Can you take a few pictures, or draw, or mock something up with cardboard?
Tony
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you're looking for something like what the old Jeeps (and others, I'm sure) used. Sorry for the terrible picture (the linkage is usually hidden, so not many good pics available), but this shows how it works. Motor on the left spins all the way around, and the linkage on the wiper just moves back and forth.
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
Sorry should have taken a picture of the mechanism before I left the house. Basically the cable drive system is used on a lot of the restoration trucks (1950's). The cable is a push/pull cable and only needs about 2 1/4" of travel to actually move the wipers 180 degrees. You can see the block on the end of the cable that runs in a track that is powered by a wheel mounted to the wiper motor (best way I can describe is how the drive wheels work on a steam locomotive) a rod is offset on the wheel an as it turns it pushes the rod with a horizontal movement.
The problem I'm having with the motor and the control arm is that it is very large and heavy. Mounting in a semi direct line with the wiper cable is giving me issues. Running a standard wiper linkage requires more room then I have do to the cross tube. I do have the old style single jeep wiper motors that I can mount two they just look bulking and don't work very well. If I'm going to spend all the time and aggravation to meet the DOT requirements I'm going to try and make it look like it was designed to be there.
It anyone has any ideas for a smaller motor that could possibly work would like to hear about it. Considered possible worm gear, small reversing hydraulic, or even a catch style that would draw the cable in one direction releasing at the end of the 2 1/4" to be spring loaded for the return.
The problem I'm having with the motor and the control arm is that it is very large and heavy. Mounting in a semi direct line with the wiper cable is giving me issues. Running a standard wiper linkage requires more room then I have do to the cross tube. I do have the old style single jeep wiper motors that I can mount two they just look bulking and don't work very well. If I'm going to spend all the time and aggravation to meet the DOT requirements I'm going to try and make it look like it was designed to be there.
It anyone has any ideas for a smaller motor that could possibly work would like to hear about it. Considered possible worm gear, small reversing hydraulic, or even a catch style that would draw the cable in one direction releasing at the end of the 2 1/4" to be spring loaded for the return.
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
See what you guys think....
Just picked up an old Summit Racing gated shifter. Going to try and modify to work, the nice thing is after cleaning it up it actually works really good. Plus it is only 3/4" wide...
I have already cut up the back of the channel cover and raised it 2" to accommodate the new emergency brake handle. So why not give it a shot. If I'm not mistaken the only thing wiring wise is to jump the safety switch wires. (They are a pain anyway every time I try to put the car in neutral I have to manually move the safety blocking bar out of the way.)
Just picked up an old Summit Racing gated shifter. Going to try and modify to work, the nice thing is after cleaning it up it actually works really good. Plus it is only 3/4" wide...
I have already cut up the back of the channel cover and raised it 2" to accommodate the new emergency brake handle. So why not give it a shot. If I'm not mistaken the only thing wiring wise is to jump the safety switch wires. (They are a pain anyway every time I try to put the car in neutral I have to manually move the safety blocking bar out of the way.)
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
Was just doing some research on that shifter. It looks like the orientation the way they shipped it to me was wrong. I may be able to run the cable directly to the back of the shifter seeing that it is capable of being a rear exit cable shifter. With the PARK position to the rear of the car there would be no reason to add the additional extension lever to the underside of the shifter like on the stock Cobalt shifter. Does anyone have there stock shifter modified but not in the car yet? Would like to know how far that lever actually moves through the full selection of gears (P,R,N,D,2,1)....
This is from a newer generation on the shifter Precision Perf. Kwik Shift #1 Pro-Hydro Cowan 3 Speed w/o Air Rear Cable Exit.
This is from a newer generation on the shifter Precision Perf. Kwik Shift #1 Pro-Hydro Cowan 3 Speed w/o Air Rear Cable Exit.