Choosing a donor after test drives

[DanPerryy]

After i drove two Goblins, both with normally aspirated engines - wow!!! What a ride! I chose a VVT 2010 Cobalt with an automatic because both of the vehicles I drove were equally as quick. One had a 5 speed manual and the other the automatic. With them equally quick (my previous fast car was a Z06 with 550 BHP at the rear wheels) and equally fun to drive I no longer wanted to put 260 HP behind such a light car. I chose the automatic because it also has equal length rear axles (as does the SS) but the manual has a long right axle. I don't think it would make a lot of difference, I certainly could not tell from the test drive but I like symmetry. Chevy evidently also likes symmetry as they went to some expense to make the SS have equal length axles.

The biggest suggestion that I would make after buying my donor is to get one that you know runs. I did not want to buy a used operating donor, they would have too many miles - they seem to run forever. I bought a salvage vehicle with 75K miles and it was rear ended. I did a VIN check (free http://motosnoop.com/your-free-vhr/#) and it was running up to the time it was rear ended so I was pretty certain that the vehicle would be good - unless someone had plowed into the rear of it while it was parked - that would have killed the transmission.

There was also a rollover that I looked at but it had oil on the top of the engine and if someone had tride to crank it over with oil in the cylinders that would have creamed the rods.

 

[Adam]

We just had two guys stop by last night that were set on getting an SS donor... until they took a ride in P2. They said that they were very surprised at how fast it was. The builders with turbo and supercharged donors don't know what is in store for them.

 

[TomsGarage]

We just had two guys stop by last night that were set on getting an SS donor... until they took a ride in P2. They said that they were very surprised at how fast it was. The builders with turbo and supercharged donors don't know what is in store for them.

That's exact what I want to hear haha. I used to have a BMW S1000RR, needless to say you can never have too much power

 

[Ben Jammin]

I'm one who goes all out, so its SS turbo for me.

Was going to use a running driving SS turbo with mods, but it was too nice to cut up and dismantle.

So into the salvage yards I go to find one suitable to use!

 

[Adam]

Ben,

I've seen the pics of that Cobalt and it looks pretty bad but since it is located so close to you, it is hard to pass up. Here's the pics for everyone else to see:

The SS we stripped here at the shop was wrecked pretty bad in the front (not as bad as that Denver car). To give you an idea of what to look for, here's a list of things that were broken on the local SS that will need to be replaced (list is in no particular order):

• oil cooler
• transmission mounts
• subframe
• left front strut
• both front control arms
• front left tie rod (steering rack condition is TBD)
• coolant reservoir

Three of the motor/tranny mounts broke in the wreck but luckily it broke the mounts instead of the engine or transmission. Damage to the engine or transmission is something you'd definitely need to check for.

The way the engine is shoved back into the firewall, the turbo and/or turbo components might not have survived either. The brake master cylinder, tank and booster might also be toast.

If you do go check it out, let us know what you figure out. Also, take some pics and share them with us so that we can see if we notice anything else that might be a problem.

 

[Ben Jammin]

It looks pretty hammered for sure.

I am trying to get out there this week to take a look. It would depend on what it goes for and what visible damage you can see. If the motor and trans are not usable then there would be no point. Definitely the sub-frame and suspension stuff is shot. So it would be for drive-train only. They do get a lot of Cobalts here at the Denver lot, not many SS cars though.

I will snap some good pics if I go!

 

[Jkean949]

Yeah, there looks to be a lot of sweat equity into getting that one running before pulling it out.

 

[Moparmat2000]

After i drove two Goblins, both with normally aspirated engines - wow!!! What a ride! I chose a VVT 2010 Cobalt with an automatic because both of the vehicles I drove were equally as quick. One had a 5 speed manual and the other the automatic. With them equally quick (my previous fast car was a Z06 with 550 BHP at the rear wheels) and equally fun to drive I no longer wanted to put 260 HP behind such a light car. I chose the automatic because it also has equal length rear axles (as does the SS) but the manual has a long right axle. I don't think it would make a lot of difference, I certainly could not tell from the test drive but I like symmetry. Chevy evidently also likes symmetry as they went to some expense to make the SS have equal length axles.

The biggest suggestion that I would make after buying my donor is to get one that you know runs. I did not want to buy a used operating donor, they would have too many miles - they seem to run forever. I bought a salvage vehicle with 75K miles and it was rear ended. I did a VIN check (free http://motosnoop.com/your-free-vhr/#) and it was running up to the time it was rear ended so I was pretty certain that the vehicle would be good - unless someone had plowed into the rear of it while it was parked - that would have killed the transmission.

There was also a rollover that I looked at but it had oil on the top of the engine and if someone had tride to crank it over with oil in the cylinders that would have creamed the rods.

I have a 2008 chevy HHR LS 2.2 5 speed I want to use as a donor, and get the little bits that dont interchange off a junkyard cobalt. I'm glad that the NA 2.2 has enough grunt, but I figured it would. I bought it new and have maintained it pretty well for 150K. A buddy of mine turned me on to the goblins. I am a mechanic for a living, and this looks like a fun fairky straightforward project.

BTW my HHR wagon sat on the lot brand new for 6 months before I snapped it up for $13,815.43 out the door. It's been a great daily for work all these years. It's full of hail damage on the outside, kid damage on the interior. I just did front brakes, new hubs, lower control arms and struts under the front. It pulls this cars 3,000 lbs around pretty quickly for its weight. I would imagine at 1,500 lbs it will be downright fast.

The great part is I already have a proven donor since I have had it 15 years. It's a good running car that just looks like hell inside and out.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Pull up @Torchandregdoc build log and send him questions - he is usually on the forum every week or so. He used a HHR SS Auto for his donor and has insight into the differences using a HHR for a donor.

 

[Moparmat2000]

Pull up @Torchandregdoc build log and send him questions - he is usually on the forum every week or so. He used a HHR SS Auto for his donor and has insight into the differences using a HHR for a donor.

I looked at his build thread. It's what told me the cradle, and EPAS from the HHR would fit. The rack and tie down rod ends cross through rock auto catalog. I am about to hit up my friends salvage yard to look through his Hollander interchange books on the few items I have questions about like the clutch and brake assembly and 5 speed shifter.

 

[Moparmat2000]

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