Chris_WNC's Track Frame #338 '09 LT Auto. REGISTERED in NC.

[OptimizePrime]

4a. BPV to sensor on the intake side
4b. This is open, nothing connected
4c. You'll see it when you run the harness
4d. Yep!

Any reason to go manual? I ask as the ability to boost ramp in hptuners is incredibly helpful when it comes to maintaining traction.

 

[Chris_WNC]

@OptimizePrime I need to add on a boost controller because my donor electronics are from an NA Cobalt. I saw another thread on here where someone went manual and another did an electronic controller of some sort. I thought manual would be easier right now to get going.

I only allow myself to work 20 hours a week for The Man these days. I went in to the laser shop today on my day off to tinker with the Ecotec some more. My Goblin is coming with the NA exhaust setup since I ordered based on my NA/Auto donor car. I am going to DIY my own exhaust coming off the turbo. I drew up a flange today and did a quick test cut on acrylic. I'll end up cutting this out of 3/8" or 1/2" carbon steel sometime next week. I need to adjust the pipe hole size for a tight fit still. So some more test cuts will need to be done.

I also got the transaxle mounted up to the engine! It wasn't as much of a horrible experience as I thought it would be. I still have the very bottom bolt on the bell housing to torque up. I couldn't get to it with everything sitting on the lift cart or dolly.

I cleaned the steering rack, the sub frame, and the OEM control arms today too. Getting them prepped for coating. I really like the little electric pressure washer that I picked up.

CHRIS

 

[Scott #321]

I cut the flange from 1/2" on my custom exhaust.Pics of exhaust Cant remember where, but I did so based on a recommendation the you shouldn't go thinner than 1/2 or risk warping. Look forward to seeing your build progress.

 

[Chris_WNC]

I went out to our property to check on things there. The builders that are doing our home have been busy prepping the build site. It's center left in the photo. The little cut out area in that stand of pine. They've moved a lot of trees and stumps and have started digging out the basement. Rain has everything a little mushy there now. Here's a bird's eye view looking back on our 125 acres. The 40' x 40' concrete pad that my shop is going on is center-right in the photo. It'll overlook the pasture. No word from the guys I bought my building from. All due to the sickness obviously.

CHRIS

 

[ccannx]

@OptimizePrime I need to add on a boost controller because my donor electronics are from an NA Cobalt. I saw another thread on here where someone went manual and another did an electronic controller of some sort. I thought manual would be easier right now to get going.

I only allow myself to work 20 hours a week for The Man these days. I went in to the laser shop today on my day off to tinker with the Ecotec some more. My Goblin is coming with the NA exhaust setup since I ordered based on my NA/Auto donor car. I am going to DIY my own exhaust coming off the turbo. I drew up a flange today and did a quick test cut on acrylic. I'll end up cutting this out of 3/8" or 1/2" carbon steel sometime next week. I need to adjust the pipe hole size for a tight fit still. So some more test cuts will need to be done.

I also got the transaxle mounted up to the engine! It wasn't as much of a horrible experience as I thought it would be. I still have the very bottom bolt on the bell housing to torque up. I couldn't get to it with everything sitting on the lift cart or dolly.

I cleaned the steering rack, the sub frame, and the OEM control arms today too. Getting them prepped for coating. I really like the little electric pressure washer that I picked up.

CHRIS

I wouldn't waste my money on a manual boost controller with that turbo. I got the GFAB3 electronic boost controller and couldn't be happier. The manual boost controller will set a target boost then open your wastegate. An electronic boost controller can set a target boost, help boost come in sooner and raise boost dynamically to maintain boost for a longer period of time. You can basically gain control or program how the wastegate operates. The GFAB3 also has a wideband input and I have a boost cutoff set if under boost the car goes leaner than 12.5 AFR It will open the wastegate as added security. It also gives the ability to run multiple boost maps so you can have one for the strip, rain or track.

 

[Chris_WNC]

I wouldn't waste my money on a manual boost controller with that turbo. I got the GFAB2 electronic boost controller and couldn't be happier. The manual boost controller will set a target boost then open your wastegate. An electronic boost controller can set a target boost, help boost come in sooner and raise boost dynamically to maintain boost for a longer period of time. You can basically gain control or program how the wastegate operates. The GFAB2 also has a wideband input and I have a boost cutoff set if under boost the car goes leaner than 12.5 AFR It will open the wastegate as added security. It also gives the ability to run multiple boost maps so you can have one for the strip, rain or track.

Do you have a link for the controller that you are using so I can lresearch? Is it the G-Force stuff?

CHRIS

 

[ccannx]

Do you have a link for the controller that you are using so I can lresearch? Is it the G-Force stuff?

CHRIS

Best thing is to watch a few videos on EBC's to get an understanding of what they do
GFB Gforce III Electronic Boost Controller Overview - Bing video
Amazon.com: Go Fast Bits G-FORCE III Electronic Boost Controller Turbo EBC w/Air Fuel Ratio : Automotive

if your set on a manual boost controller you can buy my grimspeed for 50$ shipped only used once... Amazon.com: GrimmSpeed 070002 Manual Boost Controller-Black : Automotive

 

[TheNuker]

Also you are going to want boost ramping in first gear, mine is limited to 12 psi in first to avoid spinning then 23psi in the rest.

Nuker-

 

[Chris_WNC]

@ccannx Thanks for the links. I watched the intro video and that seems like a good product. I have a manual one on the way but will probably end up going electronic. I have some time to get it sorted out.

@TheNuker Boost ramping is going to be needed I think. I’m going to keep researching the electronic controller linked above.

My take away from the past few posts is that I should be able to make my hodgepodge mix of engine parts work.

CHRIS

 

[Chris_WNC]

Special delivery! The rain even stopped enough to keep everything dry while unloading.

CHRIS

 

[Lndshrk Steve]

I think that may be the truck that was at my place in South Carolina this morning at 7 AM. Was the driver Al?

 

[Chris_WNC]

I think that may be the truck that was at my place in South Carolina this morning at 7 AM. Was the driver Al?

Yes. He was coming from Clt area. I was his last stop for the day.

CHRIS

 

[Chris_WNC]

Inventory done.
Parts sorted that are getting Steel-it painted and powder coated.
Powder ordered.
Lower tread wear tires ordered.

I did a mock up of seat location and figured out how I'm going to mount these things. It'll be a simple bolt on plate. Need to draw it up and cut it out still.

Going to be plenty of room in here!

CHRIS

 

[Rauq]

What belts are you planning to run? I only ask because those seats may not work well with 4/5/6 point harnesses. They do look good though!

 

[Chris_WNC]

PRP 4 points. It looks like the side mounts line up fairly well with the holes. I may weld in a higher tube for the shoulder belts.

CHRIS

 

[Rauq]

From my general understanding dual shoulder belts aren't kosher unless your seat has separate pass-throughs for each. Not sure about the theory if your shoulder harnesses are set appropriately far enough apart though.

 

[Lndshrk Steve]

That's the same thing I did.

 

[Chris_WNC]

Not a whole lot happening. I brought my son along to the laser shop to help me some. He did the Steel-It spray on the parts that I set aside. He got a little glove smudge on the tunnel cover toward the rear. Not a big issue to me since the parking brake will be going over it. He did a great job for a 11 yo. We also played some Pokemon Go between coats.

I played with the thin aluminum panels too. Did I say thin? Man these are thin!

I keep going over in my head what I want powder coated. My coater is supposed to come by Monday and pick everything up. Right now it's the front A-arms, Goblin frame, donor sub-frame, and side panels.

I'm still undecided on what to do with the fire wall, front foot panel, and floor pieces. And while typing this up...I remember that we did not paint the fuel tank with the gray Steel-It. Oops!

CHRIS

 

[Chris_WNC]

My powder coat guy drove up and picked up my stuff today.
I decided to finally get started on the wiring harness. Man...this 4 door seems to have 10 times the amount of wires that donor on the videos has. I'm through the first video now. Had a couple of wire and plug differences but nothing really crazy.

Home workshop update- the well guys came out and drilled down about 345 feet and found us 12 gpm of water. Plenty to run a toilet and sink, and to fill a horse water trough. The septic guy came out yesterday and installed our septic. Passed inspection this morning. All they have to do now is cover everything back up. I'm meeting with my electrician tomorrow at my concrete pad to set up install of the 200 amp service and meter base for the utility. He has a backlog and materials have been difficult to get so I wanted to go ahead and get on his wait list, because... The metal building guys are supposed to start putting the shop up on the 25th! Finally.

CHRIS

 

[DCMoney]

Home workshop update- the well guys came out and drilled down about 345 feet and found us 12 gpm of water. Plenty to run a toilet and sink, and to fill a horse water trough.

What did that cost? Know location is everything but my quotes to get a well drilled have been all over the place, with no guarantee to hit water. At my property I currently bring in water ~300 gallons at a time as needed and transfer to a 1000 gallon holding tank.