Crashed Cobalts with Won't Start

jimmyj

Member
Hey, looking at getting a supercharged Cobalt SS. I have noticed that many of the vehicles listed on Copart and IAAI, have very little damage but still won't start. While some of the more damaged vehicles still start. Is there a common thing that causes the Cobalt to not start after being crashed (again with very little damage). I completely understand that there are tons of different things that could be causing the vehicle to not start. But I'm more interested in common issues after crashes. I would love to go check out the vehicles to check for myself, but many of the vehicles are pretty far away from me and I can't go check them out.

Any information is greatly appreciated.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Jimmy, is it they won't start or won't stay running? Any vehicle that does not start I would stay away from, unless you can actually look at the car and possibly take an OBD reader with you to read the codes. There are too many horror stories for Goblin builders who have bought cars that don't start, thinking it is something easy to fix, and end up getting another engine. I'm not saying that will happen to you, but it is something to keep in mind.

For cars that won't stay running, especially a SC or TC car, it is usually an issue with reading airflow and/or boost pressure. Turbo cars that have damaged intercooler plumbing will start, but not stay running if the MAF is still plugged in. There are also some similar issues with the SC cars that will cause them to die after starting. These problems are usually fixable.

Ultimately, the physical condition of the engine internals is also a big factor. Any engine with black and burnt smelling oil on the dipstick is definitely a car to avoid. Cars that have low or no coolant could be a sign of an engine that had been run hot. Unfortunately, most times it is a roll of the dice buying a used (and possibly abused) vehicle - getting one at auction is even more of risk.

Be patient and make sure you buy the right car. There are running cars coming up for sale quite often, sometimes from private sellers, that most times gets you a better vehicle. They are usually more expensive, but if you are using the engine and transmission from the donor, can save money in the long run with having purchase fewer wear or dead parts. Your budget will ultimately dictate what you can afford, but keep looking and watch the Classified section on this forum, as sometimes a good car gets posted. :)
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I put a bid of $600 on a 2006 SS SC that didn't start, unknown mileage. After copart fees, taxes, etc it was $985.
The bid was based on the subframe, suspension, dash, shifter, etc... but not the engine.
Alternate engines are readily available, but I wanted the Cobalt parts for this kit.

So it turned out that the car needed a battery, as jump starting it didn't work. Real dead battery. The engine runs fine. It has 196K miles on it, but it runs great. I was lucky.
 

jimmyj

Member
Jimmy, is it they won't start or won't stay running? Any vehicle that does not start I would stay away from, unless you can actually look at the car and possibly take an OBD reader with you to read the codes. There are too many horror stories for Goblin builders who have bought cars that don't start, thinking it is something easy to fix, and end up getting another engine. I'm not saying that will happen to you, but it is something to keep in mind.

For cars that won't stay running, especially a SC or TC car, it is usually an issue with reading airflow and/or boost pressure. Turbo cars that have damaged intercooler plumbing will start, but not stay running if the MAF is still plugged in. There are also some similar issues with the SC cars that will cause them to die after starting. These problems are usually fixable.

Ultimately, the physical condition of the engine internals is also a big factor. Any engine with black and burnt smelling oil on the dipstick is definitely a car to avoid. Cars that have low or no coolant could be a sign of an engine that had been run hot. Unfortunately, most times it is a roll of the dice buying a used (and possibly abused) vehicle - getting one at auction is even more of risk.

Be patient and make sure you buy the right car. There are running cars coming up for sale quite often, sometimes from private sellers, that most times gets you a better vehicle. They are usually more expensive, but if you are using the engine and transmission from the donor, can save money in the long run with having purchase fewer wear or dead parts. Your budget will ultimately dictate what you can afford, but keep looking and watch the Classified section on this forum, as sometimes a good car gets posted. :)
Not sure if they start then die or not. Not able to look at the vehicles in person, although I would love to. It was just confusing that to me that a vehicle with so little damage wouldn't start. Like you stated it could very well be engine damage. Unfortunately my budget is very low which is why I was looking at possibly getting a non start hoping something simple was common on the crashed cobalts.
 

jimmyj

Member
I put a bid of $600 on a 2006 SS SC that didn't start, unknown mileage. After copart fees, taxes, etc it was $985.
The bid was based on the subframe, suspension, dash, shifter, etc... but not the engine.
Alternate engines are readily available, but I wanted the Cobalt parts for this kit.

So it turned out that the car needed a battery, as jump starting it didn't work. Real dead battery. The engine runs fine. It has 196K miles on it, but it runs great. I was lucky.
That's what I'm hoping to stumble upon. But am very nervous about taking the risk with out checking the vehicle out myself.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
That's what I'm hoping to stumble upon. But am very nervous about taking the risk with out checking the vehicle out myself.
I was tired of waiting... impatient... so I started bidding on things that were close. I figured not many people would want a car that doesn't start, with unknown mileage. I was right, not many people bid on it. It was worth the risk. I was fine if the engine was dead. I hoped the tranny survived.
Well, it is a bit of a risk, so just bid on what you think it is worth to you. If your not comfortable mixing old parts and new, then stick with one solid donor car.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I may be the most recent example of someone that bought a non-running donor and got burned for it.

My original donor was a 2007 SS/SC with 102k miles on it, not wrecked, but it was dinged up, had a busted mirror, and some other issues that made it terribly unappealing to anyone that would want to drive it, but made it a perfect donor. The interior was destroyed by mold, and since it was uglied up a bit, the price was low. The dealer I bought it from said it only needed the basic stuff to run: coils, plugs, new gas, a fuel filter, oil change, and new vacuum lines. That ended up being completely false, but I don't blame the dealer. He told me the truth; it was purchased as a project car that they never made the time for, so he sold it. The dealer had never disturbed the motor ... turned out, being an 07 model, it had the older style of timing chain tensioner on it and when it failed, it broke one of the timing chain guides into four pieces, damaged the intake cam, and sent rockers flying all over the inside of the motor. It's probably sounded like someone was popping metal popcorn! I sold it off as a project to a local guy who wanted to rebuild it.

My second donor is a 2008 SS/TC with 78k on it. This one runs great, but it was wrecked really bad and the intercooler loop was damaged, so it didn't run unless I unplugged the MAF sensor. I got it cheap, since it was totaled. Just dropped the motor out last weekend and this weekend, it's on to stripping the dash and pulling out the body harness.

So yes: do yourself a favor and make 100% sure your donor at least starts, if not runs well.
 

jimmyj

Member
I was tired of waiting... impatient... so I started bidding on things that were close. I figured not many people would want a car that doesn't start, with unknown mileage. I was right, not many people bid on it. It was worth the risk. I was fine if the engine was dead. I hoped the tranny survived.
Well, it is a bit of a risk, so just bid on what you think it is worth to you. If your not comfortable mixing old parts and new, then stick with one solid donor car.
Yeah I'd like to get the car at least during the winter so I can work on the wiring during the winter, so by spring I can build it faster so it is done for summer.
 

jimmyj

Member
I may be the most recent example of someone that bought a non-running donor and got burned for it.

My original donor was a 2007 SS/SC with 102k miles on it, not wrecked, but it was dinged up, had a busted mirror, and some other issues that made it terribly unappealing to anyone that would want to drive it, but made it a perfect donor. The interior was destroyed by mold, and since it was uglied up a bit, the price was low. The dealer I bought it from said it only needed the basic stuff to run: coils, plugs, new gas, a fuel filter, oil change, and new vacuum lines. That ended up being completely false, but I don't blame the dealer. He told me the truth; it was purchased as a project car that they never made the time for, so he sold it. The dealer had never disturbed the motor ... turned out, being an 07 model, it had the older style of timing chain tensioner on it and when it failed, it broke one of the timing chain guides into four pieces, damaged the intake cam, and sent rockers flying all over the inside of the motor. It's probably sounded like someone was popping metal popcorn! I sold it off as a project to a local guy who wanted to rebuild it.

My second donor is a 2008 SS/TC with 78k on it. This one runs great, but it was wrecked really bad and the intercooler loop was damaged, so it didn't run unless I unplugged the MAF sensor. I got it cheap, since it was totaled. Just dropped the motor out last weekend and this weekend, it's on to stripping the dash and pulling out the body harness.

So yes: do yourself a favor and make 100% sure your donor at least starts, if not runs well.
Yeah your first example is why I'm afraid to go with a non starting car. But like you said on your turbo charged car I could get lucky. Will try to check the car out before buying it.
 

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
Any time you buy a non running car it is a gamble. I bought mine as a non running car for $500 only because I knew I could sell parts for more than I paid for it if the engine was junk. Mine was a simple fix as it needed a MAF sensor. I did however do new valves , timing chain, guides, and gaskets. all of that was stuff that didn't hurt to do. Plus I got to see what the cylinder walls look like.
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
I would stay away from clean Cobalts that won't run. If it was an easy fix it would get fixed so it must be a bad transmission, engine or an electrical problem.

Most likely if a Cobalt was involved in an accident it was running at the time and drive able. There is still a risk of it having engine or transmission problems, especially if it is a high millage donor.

The only way to be sure you you get a good donor is to buy a Cobalt that runs and drive and go test drive it. It is possible that the extra money you pay for a running and driving donor will be more than the cost of buying a replacement engine or transmission for a less expensive wrecked donor.

We have had good luck with buying wrecked donors from auctions. I wish we had a list on the forum that folks could tell how they got there donor, how much they paid and what was necessary to fix for it to be usable.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
That is a great idea, actually.

Feel free to add yourself a line, anyone.

 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Lonny, the spreadsheet Jeremy put together or another format to collect this data should be in it's own forum thread where everyone can get to it and provide their information, if they choose. I'm not sure how to save this file that it can be shared with others.

EDIT: Nevermind, just saw that Jeremy put a thread out there already. :)
 

Parson Green

Well-Known Member
A good rule of thumb would be to stay away from any potential donor that looks like it was owned/driven by anyone less than 30 years of age. Stock wheels that are painted flat black would be a dead giveaway. Ditto for one that's had any kind of "performance-enhancing" equipment bolted onto it. Ditto for any deviation from the stock paint job; especially if said deviation is a poorly executed one.

Just saying ...
 
Last edited:
Top