I see. That makes sense.We will call it cold and cold hot, basically hot. If that makes any sense. It’s hard to get heat in the tires because we are so light. When I do autocross, I start at 11f/15r. I usually have to dump air out of the rears to keep it at 15, but fronts don’t really move. After a few runs, I can dump some air and it stays the rest of the day. So basically, it’s my hot pressure.
1. Well if your car is running well, I wouldn't change it, but since you have wheel hop when you panic brake, something needs to change. I am not sure of the exact diagnosis for your issue, but we are trying to problem solve here. I brought up the rear suspension as a possibility as I think it did play into my issue with hopping front wheels. My car was swaying (weight transferring) from the left to right side, causing my front wheels to take turns lifting off the road. The rear shocks weren't working properly, and replacing them helped stablize my vehicle.I have 400’s on the rear but have it on full soft (fully clicked out). I’m running a base sway bar. Would you change that?
When you say tuck in do you mean increase negative camber or buy wheels with less offset?
Ya. You’ll have more contact area on the tire with less camber. I run -.5 on my front camber and like it, but I don’t have as wide of a tire as you do either.I turned my top a-arm heim joints out three full turns to reduce camber and it made the steering feel more sluggish. The ride quality felt a little more harsh too. Does reducing negative camber change the king pin axis and increase positive scrub radius?
I have a set of 17x9 22ET (5.9" Back Space?) wheels you are more than welcome to borrow to try it out.The rear feels super planted actually. I almost don’t want to mess with it because it feels solid. The front is definitely in need of some help. I really do think just 1 inch more backspace on the same 10 in wheel should make a big difference. That will move the tire center in 1 inch and shorten that lever arm. Then I can try a 400 or even a 300 spring on the front and play with front alignment.
I turned my top a-arm heim joints out three full turns to reduce camber and it made the steering feel more sluggish. The ride quality felt a little more harsh too. Does reducing negative camber change the king pin axis and increase positive scrub radius?
I appreciate that. I’m going to just order two for the front with less offset. They aren’t too pricey.I have a set of 17x9 22ET (5.9" Back Space?) wheels you are more than welcome to borrow to try it out.
I don't have tires on them yet and the bolt pattern is 5x110.
I would need them back in January or maybe February.
So I was talking to Andrew here on the forum and he said there is a setup by powell motorsports that will drain the oil back into your oil pan. I don't know anything about that setup but I wanted to look into it. I would have a completely full catch can after just two sessions on my current setup.There's A LOT of debate about catch-cans and the best way to set it up on the TC. What's up with yours?
Great pictures, looks like you had a lot of fun!
Oooo have you completed a leakdown or compression test recently? Before you spend money on a powell setup (it's expensive for what it is) I'd recommend just confirming the engine is okay as that sounds like a lot of oil. If you're pressurizing the crankcase such that it's pushing a lot of oil through, there may be some underlying issue to overcome first (piston rings or ringlands causing blow-by).So I was talking to Andrew here on the forum and he said there is a setup by powell motorsports that will drain the oil back into your oil pan. I don't know anything about that setup but I wanted to look into it. I would have a completely full catch can after just two sessions on my current setup.
Man I sure hope the compression is okay. Its a brand new motor and I really followed the break-in recommendations closely. I wonder if my catch can is set up improperly. I will check.Oooo have you completed a leakdown or compression test recently? Before you spend money on a powell setup (it's expensive for what it is) I'd recommend just confirming the engine is okay as that sounds like a lot of oil. If you're pressurizing the crankcase such that it's pushing a lot of oil through, there may be some underlying issue to overcome first (piston rings or ringlands causing blow-by).
Ideally you take the pcv in the intake manifold, bring it external and put a catch-can post pcv. flow would be intake manifold > PCV > catch-can > back into intake manifold. Powell's setup and the catch-cans are really a band-aid to try and lessen the coking on the valves but we can't really get away from it completely.
Did you feel comfortable at speed out there (+100mph) with the wing / diffuser ?
I will try and do this sometime this week.Could you post that video without music? I'd love to play the whole thing in the background while I'm at work.