Desert Sasqwatch #155 Track (mods) - 08 SS/TC crate LNF F40

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
The Tilton reservoir arrived today, bolts right in with plenty of room on the bracket. There is about a 4 inch drop between the reservoir outlets and the top of the brake master cylinder, no 'up-hill' path for the hose routing. Will need to obtain the AN4 fittings and brake line hoses.
Also double checked the clearance for the brake master cylinder to radiator again. Plenty of clearance to angle the booster/master cylinder assembly down about 3/4 of an inch to improve the pushrod to brake pedal angle inside the pedal box.
I will wait for someone to comment on the size of the master cylinder to brake booster - I admit, it does look somewhat out of proportion to the stock Cobalt setup.
I will need to find (or make) adapters to fit into the master cylinder inlets, maybe someone with a 3d printer?
 

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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Relocated the ignition switch to make room on the left side of the dash - gotta have room for those tunes (dash speaker).
I also determined that having a steel dash panel in front of the ignition switch sensor (plastic) ring will not read the chip in the ignition key most of the time - it interferes with the RFID signal. So my ignition switch is moved to the lower edge of the dash and is forward enough for the plastic sensor to protrude slightly from where the dash panel will be mounted.
 

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Brian74

Goblin Guru
Relocated the ignition switch to make room on the left side of the dash - gotta have room for those tunes (dash speaker).
I also determined that having a steel dash panel in front of the ignition switch sensor (plastic) ring will not read the chip in the ignition key most of the time - it interferes with the RFID signal. So my ignition switch is moved to the lower edge of the dash and is forward enough for the plastic sensor to protrude slightly from where the dash panel will be mounted.
Since you are determined to save weight, why not eliminate that clunky ignition switch altogether and replace with something smaller and more lightweight? The key can be ziptied to the TDM and relocated somewhere.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Relocated the ignition switch to make room on the left side of the dash - gotta have room for those tunes (dash speaker).
I also determined that having a steel dash panel in front of the ignition switch sensor (plastic) ring will not read the chip in the ignition key most of the time - it interferes with the RFID signal. So my ignition switch is moved to the lower edge of the dash and is forward enough for the plastic sensor to protrude slightly from where the dash panel will be mounted.
Edit: update with a better photo with the mockup dash panel.
 

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Mayor West

Goblin Guru
You've got a big build log so I'm not sure I caught your intended use of your kit... are you auto crossing, joy riding, drag racing, or all of the above? Are the speed holes for weight loss or for "something to do"?

What big steps next on the list? When do you plan on painting?
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
This is my retirement project, so no hurry. I'm an engineer by trade and training - electrical, mechanical, structural, hydraulic - in aerospace, so this is basically a tinkering thing for me. I think of something or see something that I could do or improve and I have to try it (and sometimes try it again to get it right). As long as the boss lets me spend money on this and my second career job doesn't get too busy, I will work on the Goblin doing too many things. My 'list' keeps changing, so it's hard to give a date when painting will commence. Still have a lot of test fitting and mods left to work through before then. I'm just enjoying my build and eventually will enjoy driving my Goblin - someday.:D
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
True, but Racer X always helped Speed, just like the help I've been getting on my Goblin. Already checked, 'Mach 5' and 'Racer X' are already taken for a license plate in AZ.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Playing with the windshield mount to change the angle, was definitely too straight from DF. Judicious bending of the hood mounting tabs, trimming of the bottom edge of the frame to match the hood contour, and putting some more bow into the frame gets the angle just right. ;)

Thinking the frame will look good in chrome. :cool:

And yes the plexiglass is on the outside just for the mock up.
 

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JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Playing with the windshield mount to change the angle, was definitely too straight from DF. Judicious bending of the hood mounting tabs, trimming of the bottom edge of the frame to match the hood contour, and putting some more bow into the frame gets the angle just right. ;)

Thinking the frame will look good in chrome. :cool:

And yes the plexiglass is on the outside just for the mock up.
Tim: I assume you are going with a quick release for the steering wheel? Just asking since that will move the wheel closer to the driver.
You may want to get your wheel in place to ensure clearance with the windshield.

I have a quick release and just took the pic below for you to see how close it is.

I know that Scott @SACTX did a full windshield already. Not sure about his clearance. He may be able to give you a similar measurement.

Just a heads up! ;)

IMG_9434.jpg
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Yep, fully aware of the steering wheel to windshield clearance and I will be installing a quick release to have the knuckle room. I personally like the steering wheel closer than most people, so having it closer to the drivers seat is ok with me. :D
 
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