Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Brett, I've never seen a photo of the front triangulation bars installed, have any photos? Curious to see if my solution is viable and comparable to the DF bars.
Desert Sasqwatch #155 Track (mods) - 08 SS/TC crate LNF F40
- Thread starter Desert Sasqwatch
- Start date
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Aah, so they form a semi- 'V' with the center of the dash bar from the rearmost suspension mount location and miss the brake booster/master cylinder and battery location. Hmm, I will have to think about this one. Thanks for the photo!
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Well, I measured 200 times and cut, bent and welded in the front triangulation cross bars. Clears the 7 inch brake booster and master cylinder, the pedal box and brake switch, and the EPS - by 1/16ths of an inch - but it fits exactly as planned. There's enough space to slip a large motorcycle battery into the battery box - was planning to use a Li-ion battery anyway - after dropping it down by 3/4 inch (yes, it clears the steering rack).
This addition increases front torsional stiffness by more than 50% and helps keep the footwell more intact in an impact. The 'kink' in the bars was needed for the correct bar angles to clear everything and has a vertical tie bar at the intersection to keep the kink from flexing and less tendency to fold in an impact.
I'm happy with the way this turned out. I had been contemplating this addition for a long time - even thought about making it a bolt-in, but that would be far less rigid and the small bolts would be far more susceptible to failure in an impact. Weld-in was the only solution I could go with to meet my goals.
I'm getting closer to completing the gusset installations, have about 12 more to go, then I can wrap up this side project. The numbers:
Weight added - 41.5 lbs (total to date)
Torsional stiffness - increased by @40%
Weld (critical) integrity - more than 30%
Safety peace of mind - increased by 1000%
(these numbers were checked in a structural software used to build rockets)
I can finally get back to engineering my rear suspension.
RIP Zack
This addition increases front torsional stiffness by more than 50% and helps keep the footwell more intact in an impact. The 'kink' in the bars was needed for the correct bar angles to clear everything and has a vertical tie bar at the intersection to keep the kink from flexing and less tendency to fold in an impact.
I'm happy with the way this turned out. I had been contemplating this addition for a long time - even thought about making it a bolt-in, but that would be far less rigid and the small bolts would be far more susceptible to failure in an impact. Weld-in was the only solution I could go with to meet my goals.
I'm getting closer to completing the gusset installations, have about 12 more to go, then I can wrap up this side project. The numbers:
Weight added - 41.5 lbs (total to date)
Torsional stiffness - increased by @40%
Weld (critical) integrity - more than 30%
Safety peace of mind - increased by 1000%
(these numbers were checked in a structural software used to build rockets)
I can finally get back to engineering my rear suspension.
RIP Zack
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Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
The reason I'm asking again is I weighed my bare frame over the weekend - I picked up a pair of 660lb scales from Amazon to eventually use for corner weighting. I measured 89lbs under the nose and 188lbs under the rear most floor crossbar at the center tunnel for a total of 277lbs. This aligns with the 41.5lbs of frame reinforcement from my current project (plus welding wire weight of 8lbs?) and all of the previous mods I added a long time ago at 24.5lbs (plus 2lbs welding wire weight) - which totals about 76lbs. But I did remove 8.5lbs of weight with all of the speedholes in key places that reduces the added total 67.5lbs. Subtracting this 67.5lbs from the measured frame weight of 277lbs gets my original frame weight to 209.5lbs - so is this the stock bare frame weight?
Subtracting this 67.5lbs from the measured frame weight of 277lbs gets my original frame weight to 209.5lbs - so is this the stock bare frame weight?
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Any chance you're keeping a "blueprint" of all of the frame reinforcements and speed holes you're doing that you could post once you're done? I'd really like to do some reinforcing to mine once I get it ordered.
I'm not expecting down to the .001" measurements, but just a rough guide to what you did and where.
I'm not expecting down to the .001" measurements, but just a rough guide to what you did and where.
I think that's what this build log is?
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
I will be posting a full visual guide to the reinforcements when I get them completed. I've been delayed by a vacation and business trips recently - not enough garage time now that our weather is nice.
Still looking for a bare frame weight....
Still looking for a bare frame weight....
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Success!
I made my last weld bead this morning for my safety program. Has been a long time - since August - when I started this project. 90 plate and saddle gussets, 2 steel plates, and 7 triangulation bars later with more than double that number of welds to get them installed - about 16 lbs of Blue Devil MIG wire total. Need to do some weld cleanup (my friend the grinder) and I can call this project finally done.
Another weight check and I'm at 290 lbs for the bare chassis. Outweighs the Sasqwatch now, made it fun to wrestle around the garage (right-side-up, upside-down, sideways, up on saw horses, down on the floor) to get at the last bunch of welds - big Sqwatch folded up inside a tiny Goblin chassis. Good thing there were no photos taken...
I will get the frame photos with highlights of where the gussets and bars were added in and post them as soon as I can get my old laptop loaded and functional. I also need to do a speedhole recount since this has a significant change from the last total posted.
I made my last weld bead this morning for my safety program. Has been a long time - since August - when I started this project. 90 plate and saddle gussets, 2 steel plates, and 7 triangulation bars later with more than double that number of welds to get them installed - about 16 lbs of Blue Devil MIG wire total. Need to do some weld cleanup (my friend the grinder) and I can call this project finally done.
Another weight check and I'm at 290 lbs for the bare chassis. Outweighs the Sasqwatch now, made it fun to wrestle around the garage (right-side-up, upside-down, sideways, up on saw horses, down on the floor) to get at the last bunch of welds - big Sqwatch folded up inside a tiny Goblin chassis. Good thing there were no photos taken...
I will get the frame photos with highlights of where the gussets and bars were added in and post them as soon as I can get my old laptop loaded and functional. I also need to do a speedhole recount since this has a significant change from the last total posted.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Once more before I start this discussion, I am in no manner disparaging the DF Goblin or stating that Lonny and his team provide an unsafe product. A lot of engineering went into the design of the Goblin and it has been proven as a safe, capable, and durable kit car as delivered. My modifications to my Goblin are made on my own cognizance and are not intended to point out any potential short comings of the DF Goblin kit car. All changes are made to increase the performance potential of the basic kit and satisfy my personal needs for safety.
Warning: this will be an extensive addition into my build log.
Okay, time to dig into the details of my frame improvements project. I anticipate this will require several posts in my build log to get all of the photos and information explained enough so that anyone can replicate parts of or this whole project. Please note in my explanations I will use 'X', 'Y' and 'Z' axis terms - 'X' is left to right (lateral axis), 'Y' is front to back (longitudinal axis), and 'Z' is up and down (vertical axis) - just to be sure everyone understands the narrative. I will try to list everything I did, but as with any other project that has taken months to complete, I may miss somethings. IM me with any questions.
The main goal of this project was to increase the safety of my Goblin (reasons are expressed above in my build log and in other forum conversations - RIP Zack). The most important area of the frame is the main cockpit area between the A-pillar (windshield area) and the B-pillar (rollbar). This area of the frame must remain rigid and intact not only for optimum vehicle operation, but also in an impact for survivability. As a bonus the increased safety also creates a stronger/stiffer frame - by somewhere between 40-45% overall. This figure is based on the 2 different structural programs (my archaic frame program and an aerospace program for designing rocket structures) to define the best locations to install the frame improvements.
It should be noted the DF frame cockpit area is already strong by design - the track frame is about 30% stronger than the city frame (for obvious reasons) - and the frame can provide good protection when it remains intact. My biggest concern that pushed me into this project is the need to help make sure the frame remains intact. Reinforcement of the critical frame welds helps ensure this happens. I will point out in the narrative which added pieces make the biggest improvements in frame safety and stiffness.
A quick rehash of the materials purchased to make the improvements:
3 inch saddle gussets - X2 sets (20 pieces total) - all used
1.25 inch saddle gussets - X2 set (20 pieces total) - 16 used
2 inch plate gussets 60 degree - X2 sets (12 pieces total) - 10 used
2 inch plate gussets 90 degree - X2 sets (20 pieces total) - 18 used
2 & 3 inch plate gussets 90 degree - X1 set (25 pieces total) - all used
4X12X0.125 inch steel plate - X1 piece - fabbed 4 large plate gussets
8X12X0.65 inch steel plate - X1 piece - fabbed 1 large & 2 medium saddle gussets
1.5X0.95 inch round steel tube - X2 4 feet pieces used
1.25X0.83 inch round steel tube - X1 4 feet piece used
1.0X0.65 inch round steel tube - X2 4 feet pieces & X1 1 foot piece used
All of these parts can be purchased from eBay, Amazon, or other vendor supplying steel fabrication materials.
First, an explanation of the areas that surfaced as needing improvements became evident when using the frame programs. These are the areas that I focused on with this project.
From analysis the floor is the weakest part of the frame, but is also the least susceptible to experiencing an impact in an accident. Discussion with a coworker - who is a structural engineer -found that replacing the tunnel and 1 inch square tubing in all locations with at least 1.25 inch diameter cross tubes and eliminating the tunnel from the middle of the structure would be the best change. There is inherent problems with doing this kind of major frame surgery and not wanting to completely tear out the changes I had already made, the alternative was to reinforce the existing pieces. The changes I made kept all of the original floor components and I added triangulation pieces - which had been posted in the past in my build log - and reinforcement gussets that made about a 15-20% improvement in the floor. I will explain this in detail further on in the posts.
The 'base' (bottom) of the rollbar does not have a dedicated solid crossbar. The rearmost 1 inch square cross tube is the closest cross piece (5 inches offset), but it is subject to the same issue defined above for the floor and is not a good 'base' for the rollbar. The bolted in subframe frontmost cross member is too far rearward (about 12 inches) to function as the 'base' to the rollbar in stock form and it is not located in a B-pillar connected rigid structure. The reason for this is the 'ears' the subframe is bolted into behind the B-pillar - good 'Y' and 'Z' axis rigidity but not good 'X' axis rigidity. The improvements I made to reinforce the rollbar and increase support to the 'base' area enhances rollover safety and adds about 10-15% torsional stiffness. This will be explained further in the posts.
The open area above the footwell in the cockpit is inherently a weaker area of the frame, it is essentially an open top box susceptible to twisting forces and is easier to collapse in a diagonal direction in an impact. I personally like my legs and feet (especially my feet) and reinforcing this area was important to my project. The front frame is also flexible in torsion (twisting) that can allow front suspension geometry changes when loaded in hard turns. The changes I made increased front torsional stiffness by 75-80% and reduced the tendency to collapse in a diagonal or side impact. Explanation of the improvements will be posted.
The rearmost parts of the frame, behind the rear strut mount towers is also a weaker part of the frame. This area is not directly a safety item, but can benefit from improvements that help reduce deformation from impact forces. The installation of the cross bar and triangulation at the rear greatly improves frame strength, especially with the application of 'X' axis suspension forces that can affect the suspension geometry under dynamic conditions. The changes I installed increased the stiffness by 70-75%, especially for the rearmost frame to subframe mount locations. I have gone over this before in my build log and what I did to resolve this, but I will review this information in the posts.
Enough with the explanation ramblings (Racer X was my editing help), time for photos.
Warning: this will be an extensive addition into my build log.
Okay, time to dig into the details of my frame improvements project. I anticipate this will require several posts in my build log to get all of the photos and information explained enough so that anyone can replicate parts of or this whole project. Please note in my explanations I will use 'X', 'Y' and 'Z' axis terms - 'X' is left to right (lateral axis), 'Y' is front to back (longitudinal axis), and 'Z' is up and down (vertical axis) - just to be sure everyone understands the narrative. I will try to list everything I did, but as with any other project that has taken months to complete, I may miss somethings. IM me with any questions.
The main goal of this project was to increase the safety of my Goblin (reasons are expressed above in my build log and in other forum conversations - RIP Zack). The most important area of the frame is the main cockpit area between the A-pillar (windshield area) and the B-pillar (rollbar). This area of the frame must remain rigid and intact not only for optimum vehicle operation, but also in an impact for survivability. As a bonus the increased safety also creates a stronger/stiffer frame - by somewhere between 40-45% overall. This figure is based on the 2 different structural programs (my archaic frame program and an aerospace program for designing rocket structures) to define the best locations to install the frame improvements.
It should be noted the DF frame cockpit area is already strong by design - the track frame is about 30% stronger than the city frame (for obvious reasons) - and the frame can provide good protection when it remains intact. My biggest concern that pushed me into this project is the need to help make sure the frame remains intact. Reinforcement of the critical frame welds helps ensure this happens. I will point out in the narrative which added pieces make the biggest improvements in frame safety and stiffness.
A quick rehash of the materials purchased to make the improvements:
3 inch saddle gussets - X2 sets (20 pieces total) - all used
1.25 inch saddle gussets - X2 set (20 pieces total) - 16 used
2 inch plate gussets 60 degree - X2 sets (12 pieces total) - 10 used
2 inch plate gussets 90 degree - X2 sets (20 pieces total) - 18 used
2 & 3 inch plate gussets 90 degree - X1 set (25 pieces total) - all used
4X12X0.125 inch steel plate - X1 piece - fabbed 4 large plate gussets
8X12X0.65 inch steel plate - X1 piece - fabbed 1 large & 2 medium saddle gussets
1.5X0.95 inch round steel tube - X2 4 feet pieces used
1.25X0.83 inch round steel tube - X1 4 feet piece used
1.0X0.65 inch round steel tube - X2 4 feet pieces & X1 1 foot piece used
All of these parts can be purchased from eBay, Amazon, or other vendor supplying steel fabrication materials.
First, an explanation of the areas that surfaced as needing improvements became evident when using the frame programs. These are the areas that I focused on with this project.
From analysis the floor is the weakest part of the frame, but is also the least susceptible to experiencing an impact in an accident. Discussion with a coworker - who is a structural engineer -found that replacing the tunnel and 1 inch square tubing in all locations with at least 1.25 inch diameter cross tubes and eliminating the tunnel from the middle of the structure would be the best change. There is inherent problems with doing this kind of major frame surgery and not wanting to completely tear out the changes I had already made, the alternative was to reinforce the existing pieces. The changes I made kept all of the original floor components and I added triangulation pieces - which had been posted in the past in my build log - and reinforcement gussets that made about a 15-20% improvement in the floor. I will explain this in detail further on in the posts.
The 'base' (bottom) of the rollbar does not have a dedicated solid crossbar. The rearmost 1 inch square cross tube is the closest cross piece (5 inches offset), but it is subject to the same issue defined above for the floor and is not a good 'base' for the rollbar. The bolted in subframe frontmost cross member is too far rearward (about 12 inches) to function as the 'base' to the rollbar in stock form and it is not located in a B-pillar connected rigid structure. The reason for this is the 'ears' the subframe is bolted into behind the B-pillar - good 'Y' and 'Z' axis rigidity but not good 'X' axis rigidity. The improvements I made to reinforce the rollbar and increase support to the 'base' area enhances rollover safety and adds about 10-15% torsional stiffness. This will be explained further in the posts.
The open area above the footwell in the cockpit is inherently a weaker area of the frame, it is essentially an open top box susceptible to twisting forces and is easier to collapse in a diagonal direction in an impact. I personally like my legs and feet (especially my feet) and reinforcing this area was important to my project. The front frame is also flexible in torsion (twisting) that can allow front suspension geometry changes when loaded in hard turns. The changes I made increased front torsional stiffness by 75-80% and reduced the tendency to collapse in a diagonal or side impact. Explanation of the improvements will be posted.
The rearmost parts of the frame, behind the rear strut mount towers is also a weaker part of the frame. This area is not directly a safety item, but can benefit from improvements that help reduce deformation from impact forces. The installation of the cross bar and triangulation at the rear greatly improves frame strength, especially with the application of 'X' axis suspension forces that can affect the suspension geometry under dynamic conditions. The changes I installed increased the stiffness by 70-75%, especially for the rearmost frame to subframe mount locations. I have gone over this before in my build log and what I did to resolve this, but I will review this information in the posts.
Enough with the explanation ramblings (Racer X was my editing help), time for photos.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Starting with the floor frame, the best that I could do when using the original frame pieces was to reinforce the weld attachments at the frame lower side tubes and at the tunnel. Applying the 2X2 inch plate gussets to these weld joints helps strengthen those connections (these are in the dark blue circles in the photo). I also welded in a 1.0X0.250 solid steel bar 'connector' piece inside the tunnel (second photo) to tie the 1 inch square tubes side to side across the tunnel bottom. This is far more solid connection that the 0.100 sheet metal of the tunnel (these are indicated in the light blue squares in the photo.
Note: the white stars in all photos are the minimum reinforcement locations that I recommend.
For the rearmost 1 inch square cross tube I 'doubled-up' the gussets, both front and back sides of these connections, as this cross bar is critical to the rollbar integrity - which I will discuss further on in the posts. I also installed a diagonal brace between the 'subframe connection 'ears' and the reinforced 1 inch square cross tube (these are indicated in red). The forwardmost floor X-brace (indicated in purple) and the passenger floor X-braces (indicated in green) we installed a long time ago (see my early build log pages) and add stability to the floor and increase torsional stiffness.
The seat rails are indicated in orange and yes they are not straight/square in the frame. They are angled inward about 3 degrees to point the driver and passenger seats toward the center of the car.
Note: the white stars in all photos are the minimum reinforcement locations that I recommend.
For the rearmost 1 inch square cross tube I 'doubled-up' the gussets, both front and back sides of these connections, as this cross bar is critical to the rollbar integrity - which I will discuss further on in the posts. I also installed a diagonal brace between the 'subframe connection 'ears' and the reinforced 1 inch square cross tube (these are indicated in red). The forwardmost floor X-brace (indicated in purple) and the passenger floor X-braces (indicated in green) we installed a long time ago (see my early build log pages) and add stability to the floor and increase torsional stiffness.
The seat rails are indicated in orange and yes they are not straight/square in the frame. They are angled inward about 3 degrees to point the driver and passenger seats toward the center of the car.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
The rollbar got a major upgrade with a second diagonal bar (indicated in red) that mirrors the original diagonal bar, but goes from behind the passenger head to the floor behind the driver. The reason for this is twofold - first the diagonal adds the needed stiffness to the B-pillar that accommodates not having a 'base' cross tube and second provides added safety in case of a rollover (and Racer X likes it a lot, puts a big 'X' in the middle of my frame). The top and bottom weld joints and the shoulder height cross bar weld joints get 3 inch saddle gussets (top, indicated in light blue) and large fabbed plate gussets (bottom and middle cross bar, indicated in dark blue). The center weld connections get fabbed saddle gussets (indicated in light blue) for the three critical connections - resulting from the sequence that bars were welded in place.
Note: the white stars in all photos are the minimum reinforcement locations that I recommend - if not adding a second diagonal bar, otherwise both sides for top and bottom gussets are the minimum.
Also not shown, the fuel tank mount rails are hard-welded (not just tack welded) to the backside of the frame bars in all locations to provide some added stiffness to the B-pillar.
Note: the white stars in all photos are the minimum reinforcement locations that I recommend - if not adding a second diagonal bar, otherwise both sides for top and bottom gussets are the minimum.
Also not shown, the fuel tank mount rails are hard-welded (not just tack welded) to the backside of the frame bars in all locations to provide some added stiffness to the B-pillar.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
The rear of the frame has a pair of larger 3 inch plate gussets under the strut mount crossbar (indicated with dark blue circles) and has 1.25 inch saddle gussets (indicated in light blue) weld reinforcements at the top of the rearward diagonal bars - there are mirrored 1.25 inch saddle gussets welded in at the bottom of the diagonal bars (will be seen in later photos).
The rear crossbar and triangulation bars that i welded in a while ago (see earlier build log pages) are strictly frame strengthening to prevent unwanted frame twist and bending. The horizontal crossbar (indicated in red) ties the rearmost 'legs' of the frame together side to side (to form the top of a box) and the triangulation diagonal bars (indicated in red) attach the lower subframe connection points into the box. Bolting the subframe into the bottom connections of the 'legs' completes the triangulated 'box' and increases the stiffness of the very back of the frame by more than 80%. Granted this configuration will not work with the 'stock' DF exhaust systems.
Since I had some extra 1.25 inch saddle gussets, the corners of the 'box' were reinforced (indicated in light blue). The additional diagonal bars (indicated in orange) are triangulation for my new rear suspension project.
The rear crossbar and triangulation bars that i welded in a while ago (see earlier build log pages) are strictly frame strengthening to prevent unwanted frame twist and bending. The horizontal crossbar (indicated in red) ties the rearmost 'legs' of the frame together side to side (to form the top of a box) and the triangulation diagonal bars (indicated in red) attach the lower subframe connection points into the box. Bolting the subframe into the bottom connections of the 'legs' completes the triangulated 'box' and increases the stiffness of the very back of the frame by more than 80%. Granted this configuration will not work with the 'stock' DF exhaust systems.
Since I had some extra 1.25 inch saddle gussets, the corners of the 'box' were reinforced (indicated in light blue). The additional diagonal bars (indicated in orange) are triangulation for my new rear suspension project.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
The rear topside of the frame again shows the 1.25 inch saddle gussets at the top of the rearward diagonal bars (indicated in light blue), adjacent to the corner caps (indicated in yellow) that I installed earlier in my build. These are now fully welded in to reinforce the halo hoop to rollbar weld points. The roof center bar was installed quite a while ago and also gets 2X2 plate gussets welded in (indicated by dark blue circles).
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
The driver's side of the frame is mirrored by the passenger's side of the frame. All saddle gussets are indicated in light blue and all plate gussets are indicated in dark blue. Again, the recommended reinforcements have a white star - with a black star for the A-pillar top of the track cage for those who have one (not required for a city frame - obviously).
Very important in the safety of the cockpit area are the extra vertical tie bars (indicated in red in all photos) that connect the bottom frame rail to the center frame rail to the top frame rail. These tie bars help keep the side rails from spreading in the event of a side impact and provide a marginal increase in the stiffness of the center of the frame (less so for the track frame - more so for the city frame). This will only optimally work with the standard entry bars, the double bars and easy entry will still benefit from the lower most tie bar that connects the lower frame rail to the middle frame rail.
The front diagonal bars (indicated in purple) were added a long time ago, but I decided to over-reinforce this bar into the middle frame rail and A-pillar by adding a 0.62 thick steel plate (indicated in yellow). A saddle gusset could be used in its place to tie the forward middle frame rail to the A-pillar upright bar - sans the added diagonal bar (purple).
Very important in the safety of the cockpit area are the extra vertical tie bars (indicated in red in all photos) that connect the bottom frame rail to the center frame rail to the top frame rail. These tie bars help keep the side rails from spreading in the event of a side impact and provide a marginal increase in the stiffness of the center of the frame (less so for the track frame - more so for the city frame). This will only optimally work with the standard entry bars, the double bars and easy entry will still benefit from the lower most tie bar that connects the lower frame rail to the middle frame rail.
The front diagonal bars (indicated in purple) were added a long time ago, but I decided to over-reinforce this bar into the middle frame rail and A-pillar by adding a 0.62 thick steel plate (indicated in yellow). A saddle gusset could be used in its place to tie the forward middle frame rail to the A-pillar upright bar - sans the added diagonal bar (purple).
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Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
The front of the frame has larger 3 inch and smaller 2X2 inch plate gussets (indicated in dark blue circles). The lower frame rails will be 'wet' and have threaded caps welded in (indicated in green, still need to install in the rear of the tubes). The battery box has been lowered in position by 3/4 inch to allow for clearance of the battery (indicated in red). The previous front suspension mount location mods are indicated in orange.
The footwell crossbracing (indicated in red) closes of the top of the 'box' over the footwell and greatly increases rigidity and strength of the front of the frame - as explained previously. This bracing clears all front bolt in items - pedal box, steering box, brake booster and master cylinder, and the battery.
I'm very pleased with how this turned out and increases my sense of safety that my frame now meets. I'm also quite happy with the increase in strength I've achieved, which is a step up from all other Goblin frames that have been shared with the forum. I can't wait to see how it responds with my newly designed LCA/UCA rear suspension. Let me know if any questions.
The footwell crossbracing (indicated in red) closes of the top of the 'box' over the footwell and greatly increases rigidity and strength of the front of the frame - as explained previously. This bracing clears all front bolt in items - pedal box, steering box, brake booster and master cylinder, and the battery.
I'm very pleased with how this turned out and increases my sense of safety that my frame now meets. I'm also quite happy with the increase in strength I've achieved, which is a step up from all other Goblin frames that have been shared with the forum. I can't wait to see how it responds with my newly designed LCA/UCA rear suspension. Let me know if any questions.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Really?!? Any idea how many speedholes there are in my chassis? You're more than welcome to come over for a week and dimple flare all of them.
