DF tubular subframe install, tech and reviews

RobC76

Well-Known Member
This is the mount that has to be cutoff to allow subframe to be bolted to drivetrain. I’ll get something figured out.

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My
 

RobC76

Well-Known Member
Rear mount is complete. Just waiting on some bushings stock to arrive for the space between the DF mount and the bracket I made. I have the cad file, if anyone needs it just let me know. I’ll get the front sorted out this weekend and get it put in cad, try one out and report back next week.
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RobC76

Well-Known Member
I was hoping that plate would possibly serve as a stiffener for the diff housing that is behind it. I have zero engineering data to backup that up however lol.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Bigfoot Goblin
The ribs cast into the transmission case provide the primary stiffness for the differential. The solid transmission mount plate would only add minimally to the overall stiffness of the transmission. But the benefit of additional bolts spreads the driveline forces over more contact points minimizing the chances of case failure at any one bolt. So in a way your thinking is not off the mark. Keep up the good work! :D
 

Markm

Well-Known Member
I painted everything yesterday and today was install time. Probably a solid 6 hours to check parts inventory, mock up and install. Built the knuckles backwards, a few times :rolleyes:so that took time, but referred to pictures here and got it right. On SC models, the intercooler pump and bracket have to be removed, but thats about it on mods. Putting the subframe up was easy, aligning all the holes was a PITA. Overall, look at the pics and get after it.

tomorrow or sat I’ll align it and go for a test drive. :cool:
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Did you need any spacers or anything for the rear brake calipers? I was going to use a hydraulic park brake and original front calipers but obviously the bracket pattern is wrong. I’ll be ordering solstice calipers and just wondering if that’s all I’m missing. Thanks
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Did you need any spacers or anything for the rear brake calipers? I was going to use a hydraulic park brake and original front calipers but obviously the bracket pattern is wrong. I’ll be ordering solstice calipers and just wondering if that’s all I’m missing. Thanks
I'm pretty sure I used the spacers like on the stock setup. I have since changed to the Justin reed setup, so I can’t look. Referencing old pictures, I can’t tell if the spacers are in there, but I’m pretty sure they are.

how are you doing a hydraulic park brake? I have one way I was going to do it, but have gone another way at the moment.
 

Markm

Well-Known Member
I'm pretty sure I used the spacers like on the stock setup. I have since changed to the Justin reed setup, so I can’t look. Referencing old pictures, I can’t tell if the spacers are in there, but I’m pretty sure they are.

how are you doing a hydraulic park brake? I have one way I was going to do it, but have gone another way at the moment.
I have spacers that came in the brake kit so hopefully they’ll fit if I need them. I’m still tossing around the idea of the hydraulic park brake. I guess I could still use the park brake valve even with the solstice calipers. This is the valve I have I am thinking mounting in in the tunnel somewhere near the shifter but I haven’t quite gotten to that step yet.
 

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Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Yep. Those should be it. Should work fine. Nothing wrong with running the stock park brake setup though.

Switching to the JR setup, looses the park brake. I have a line lock I might add in as a park brake, but haven’t decided yet.
 

Markm

Well-Known Member
Yep. Those should be it. Should work fine. Nothing wrong with running the stock park brake setup though.

Switching to the JR setup, looses the park brake. I have a line lock I might add in as a park brake, but haven’t decided yet.
I have the handle, cable and tubes so I could go either way I guess
 

RobC76

Well-Known Member
Front mount that comes on the tubular subframe has to be cut off. I will design a mount that will tackle that issue as well. Once done I’ll share both designs, cad files or whatever y’all need. Happy to help
Thank you
Made headway on the front trans bracket for F40 in new subframe.
Pics show mockup along with one pic showing where I’ll add .300 more material.
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SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
Hope I didn’t mess up. Know one mention it. The bolts that go into the aluminum spindle I put anti-seize on. My thought is I don’t want them ripping treads out if I have to remove them later since it’s a steel bolt going into aluminum. Also does any have to torque specs for them
 

Markm

Well-Known Member
Hope I didn’t mess up. Know one mention it. The bolts that go into the aluminum spindle I put anti-seize on. My thought is I don’t want them ripping treads out if I have to remove them later since it’s a steel bolt going into aluminum. Also does any have to torque specs for them
I used red loctite in the blind hole and on the threads and gave it about three ugga duggas. Fine thread 5/8” bolt torque that I could find is 180 ft lbs but I didn’t feel the aluminum would handle that torque. I used the same procedure assembling the uprights.
 

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
Cool. I’ll check my bolts regularly. Also I set the rod ends up like the front with them backed out 4 turns. Can anyone confirm this is correct.
 

Markm

Well-Known Member
Cool. I’ll check my bolts regularly. Also I set the rod ends up like the front with them backed out 4 turns. Can anyone confirm this is correct.
I adjusted the lower arm rod ends out equally until the bolts went in the holes. The toe adjusters I eyeballed to the front with a string then did the alignment.
 

RBikeMan

Member
Hi Folks,

I am trying to get the forward transmission mounting holes to line up on my F35 transmission. Any hints? I am considering loosening the motor mounts and the four subframe mounting bolts. Then using a tapered drift to assist. It has been a bit of a challenge lol to get those four bolts aligned. Thanks!

Vince
#415 2007 SS SC
Knoxville
 

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