Donor or Fresh...

mbasaraba

Member
Been talking to another member and he sent me 2 great links and want to have a discussion or advice on the option...

I stated in my introduction thread but will put here also, I would really like to go auto transmission. I wont be racing or anything so I shouldnt kill it.

New Motor with TC

New Auto Transmission

My question(s) are besides a subframe that I will have to source, what drawbacks from going this route? I know more expensive, already $3400 for just the motor and tranny, alternator, etc, but difficulty installing it in the kit?

Wire harness and computer options?

I am sure I can get steering and gauges from a Pick-A-Part or find a VERY cheap donor with no motor or tranny to get some of the stuff I need.

Input is GREATLY appreciated.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
If you want an auto in a TC, look for an HHR SS donor like @Torchandregdoc did. I know there's a couple people on here that built or are building a Goblin without a donor, and I believe I recall hearing them kvetch a few times wishing they had bought a donor.
 

mbasaraba

Member
If you want an auto in a TC, look for an HHR SS donor like @Torchandregdoc did. I know there's a couple people on here that built or are building a Goblin without a donor, and I believe I recall hearing them kvetch a few times wishing they had bought a donor.
I am not apposed to buying a donor for the other parts I will need, just curious about this motor and tranny used WITH a donor instead of that motor/tranny.
 

Vwsaabvt

Goblin Guru
BUY A DONOR the random hardware adds up along with lots of other parts; pedals, control arms, knuckles, steering rack, brake master, cluster, bcm, tcm, ecm, fuse box, all the wiring, etc...

also the transmission you linked is a 5 speed manual.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Those new F35's are manuals, which runs counter to your first post. Additionally, you should factor the cost of the LSD option in, as well. (It's a smidge more :eek: )
 

mbasaraba

Member
Those new F35's are manuals, which runs counter to your first post. Additionally, you should factor the cost of the LSD option in, as well. (It's a smidge more :eek: )
You're right, not sure why I thought it was an auto that I posted so scratch that part of it. How about just the motor? If I could find a donor with a bad motor would this be a pretty much direct swap?
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
You're right, not sure why I thought it was an auto that I posted so scratch that part of it. How about just the motor? If I could find a donor with a bad motor would this be a pretty much direct swap?
Yep, direct swap. As far as I know, anyway. I didn't buy a new crate engine, but many here, have.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Sorry, I missed the part about an automatic in your first post. That would definitely lead you more down a path of cheaper NA model and upgrade later to add a turbo.
 

mbasaraba

Member
Sorry, I missed the part about an automatic in your first post. That would definitely lead you more down a path of cheaper NA model and upgrade later to add a turbo.
If I buy something with a 150k mile motor I would want it fresh anyways which would cost a penny or 2 so the new motor is still an option even if I did get a donor for the other pieces.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
If I buy something with a 150k mile motor I would want it fresh anyways which would cost a penny or 2 so the new motor is still an option even if I did get a donor for the other pieces.
You had mentioned you’d be ok with tearing down the motor, right? If so, mileage shouldn’t matter a whole lot. Drive it as is until you do the turbo swap, during which you do the engine refresh as well.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Forged pistons and rods will cost around $800-900. Add a new timing chain kit, guide bolt, all new gaskets and seals and you’d be in around $1700-1800, cheaper than the new ATK engine that isn’t complete (others who have purchased have been missing a sensor here or there).
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
I went the hybrid route, Bought a donor then bought a brand new engine and transmission. I think the only parts I have used is fuse box, brake booster, master cylinder, gauge cluster, BCM,ECU, wiring, and the steering wheel bearing lol.

Nuker-
 
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