Dragon Motorsports 1.0 [Extended\Full-Cage\Double Door Bars] - [Frame #290] - SOLD

G Atsma

Goblin Guru
You only need both O2 sensors if using a catalytic converter. The 2nd post-converter one is for monitoring converter efficiency
 

Jareth

Goblin Guru
the front oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold is "most important" because it is used for fuel control. the rear heated oxygen sensor is only used to monitor the operation of the catalytic converter

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k.rollin

Goblin Guru
The donor has two oxygen sensors and there is not a sensor byng on the exhaust manifold. On a NA build using the stock donor manifold, the upstream sensor will be installed in the kit-supplied exhaust and the downstream sensor is unused.

If you use something aftermarket, like the ZZP shorty header, with the kit-supplied exhaust, then you'll have two bungs (one in the header collector and one in the kit-supplied exhaust). The downstream sensor still is not required for monitoring catalytic converter operation, but may be installed in the downstream position as a plug for the hole.
 

Jareth

Goblin Guru
I'm aware of the methods for disabling the various warning lights.

But I guess the check engine light would always be on for no other reason as the unused downstream sensor.

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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
But I guess the check engine light would always be on for no other reason as the unused downstream sensor.
I'm not real sure what you are trying to say/ask but on a typical build there are multiple things that would trip the check engine light besides the 2nd O2 sensor. Mostly the Evap system can throw multiple codes.
 

Jareth

Goblin Guru
Yes, your right :)

I was just expressing regardless of other things that alone would always flag the light.

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Jareth

Goblin Guru
My fuse box seems secure with the two mounting locations shown in this picture.



I don’t see where the below parts would be used?



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Jareth

Goblin Guru
Sorry but going forward I seem to have a lot of what be little question :confused:

I have these two ground wires that are near the starter



Should I secure them both to the ground stud of the starter



Or away from near the power connection of the starter and secure them under the bolt that mounts the Starter?



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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
If you aren't careful, you are fixing to set your car on fire. The stud on the starter is not a "ground stud" That is the field wire. and is hot when the starter relay is closed.

It's hard to tell from your picture, but the connector marked F is possibly the + wire from the alternator or the + wire to the fuse box. It maybe a ground, but that looks like a red band on it. The small black wire may be a ground, but there isn't anything that would normally be grounded at that location from the wiring directions.
 

Jareth

Goblin Guru
I’m glad I asked I thought the raw twisted thick wire was welded to the case of the starter, which made me think it was a ground.

it is scary to think of the electronics I would have blown ?

 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I think the plate that wire is touching is probably actually a piece of rubber painted the same color. If that is metal, it may take a little more thought about what is going on. Below is an older style GM starter but it works the same. The "S" and "R" are built into the small plug that connects to the relay.

28783
 

Jareth

Goblin Guru
Did earlier kits not come with this black bracket?

Just watched the latest video uploaded by DFK which led me to search for the last 1/2 hour for the solid transmission mount, only to find my kit did not come with one.



Mine only came with.

 
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Jareth

Goblin Guru
Do you guys just splice in additional length to the Map sensor, I see a 20” extension for sale?



If I plan on using the engine covers I’ll need a longer cable.

 
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