First start no crank help

[Motoracer110]

-butterfly openness with gas pedal
-boost gauge will not turn on
-can’t get gas pump to turn on
- there is a slight buzzing where the fuel would enter the engine

I ran a jumper connected to the negative on the battery to every ground wire to see if that was the problem no change. I press in the clutch and break to start but nothing.

-Fuel pump won’t kick on

-starter won’t turn

Does this box need plugged in?

Here is the open wires on the engine

Any assistance would be a big help thank u

I do not have my fuel line connected or fuel in the tank not sure if that would cause the pump not to kick on. I wanted to hear the engine try and turn before I gave it fuel

 

[ctuinstra]

The purple connector is either for your fuel injectors or the headlamp harness. On our car, they use the exact same plug. Ask me how I know.

Not sure about the middle connector.

The last one looks like the connector to the fan but that should have been extended earlier in the thinning of the harness.

The fuel pump should come on and prime when the ignition is first turned on. I'm not sure that is does every time you turn it on if it has just been turned on. If it has not been turned on in a while, it should prime for a few seconds.

Do you have the ground from the headlight harness connected from the fusebox to ground?

I don't believe the little box has to be connected in order for it to prime the fuel.

 

[Motoracer110]

Thank u yes I think I have that ground connected. Lonny did my wire harness here is where I have 3 grounds and I directly connected to the negative on battery

 

[Lonny]

 

[DCMoney]

Think that one no one is sure about is this, what color are the wires?

 

[Motoracer110]

Think that one no one is sure about is this, what color are the wires?

Thank u I think that is the plug

I don’t see anything near this plug that it can plug into so maybe not important.

I placed my meter on every fuse and the fuses on the car is good. I added a quarter tank of gas and it does register a quarter tank on the fuel gauge so the fuel pump is communicating just not pumping. I double checked the grounds and all is good there. I jumped the relay for the fuel pump and still won’t pump at all

I feel like there is a security lockout on the car. One thing I can’t get to work is the boost gauge because the previous owner hacked up the wires with other gauges and I did see Lonny mention in another thread that the boost gauge needs to be plugged in to start car.

Open to any ideas thank u

 

[Briann1177]

The boost gauge definitely does not have to be plugged in for the car to start.

 

[DCMoney]

Whats your O2 sensor plug look like? AllData says the LNF has a 6 pin O2 sensor.

 

[Lonny]

Does yours have a boost gauge or one of the LCD screen if it had the LCD screen it has to be plugged in to start the car, the data wires daisy chain through it.

 

[Motoracer110]

Yes! It had all three of these

This is what the wires look like after the wreck

I’ll have to figure out have to rewire

 

[Briann1177]

That's the non-RPD, analog boost gauge. Your car will start without it, but I didn't realize the RPD style has to be hooked up for startup. Makes sense why, though.

 

[Motoracer110]

Does yours have a boost gauge or one of the LCD screen if it had the LCD screen it has to be plugged in to start the car, the data wires daisy chain through it.

The top gauge with the dark lens is the boost gauge but it is non digital. that was the only gauge that i plugged in. would I have to daisy chain all 3 gauges plug into the car to make everything work?

 

[Motoracer110]

That's the non-RPD, analog boost gauge. Your car will start without it, but I didn't realize the RPD style has to be hooked up for startup. Makes sense why, though.

ok thats good news, i would have had to track down a new harness for those gauges. what i might do tomorrow is work on the fuel pump first and try to see why the pump isnt turning. try and track where the power loss is at. worst case scenario could i rerun new wires to both the starter and pump then just abandon the other wires?

 

[Motoracer110]

Also on a side note when i turn the key to start the engine, I do hear the relay click up in the fuse box assembly by the passenger feet but dont get any power to the control wire to activate the starter.

 

[Motoracer110]

Well I’m about 15 hrs into trying to diagnose the problem I disconnected all the grounds and connected a high gauge solid copper grounding wire from the negative on the battery to all the connections and still no crank no fuel pump.


Here is a pic of the starter and what I thought is a grounding connection. Should this be connected to anything on the starter? Currently the starter has the direct positive from the battery, connection to the alternator, and a connection going to the fuse box then a control wire.

 

[DCMoney]

Those 3 connections is all you should need on the power side of the starter. That lug looks like a ground.

 

[k.rollin]

Are all the connections you described attached to the positive (upper) terminal of the starter? If the fusible link (alternator to starter connection) is attached to the negative (lower) terminal, you'll get plenty of clicking and no cranking. I learned that by wasting a bunch of time troubleshooting a no crank/start condition too.

 

[Motoracer110]

Are all the connections you described attached to the positive (upper) terminal of the starter? If the fusible link (alternator to starter connection) is attached to the negative (lower) terminal, you'll get plenty of clicking and no cranking. I learned that by wasting a bunch of time troubleshooting a no crank/start condition too. gas pump still dead

thank you yes all 3 connections on the top of the starter. New development is I can pull out the relay to the starter and add a jumper to the relay and the starter works perfect so there is no signal getting to the relay to engage the starter
I just uploaded a video.

 

[ctuinstra]

If you are in fact jumping the fuel pump relay correctly, it should run. It's a very simple circuit. The "HOT AT ALL TIMES" should be hot, at all times. Check to see if you are getting 12V at the relay. If you are, check to see if your pump is grounded. Use an ohm meter to check for continuity on the black wire of the pump to frame ground. If you have both the ground and the 12v, then check the continuity of the gray to pink/blk wire going from the relay to the fuel pump. Also check the fuel pump fuse (15A).

Disclaimer: this is a diagram from a 2006 and your wiring maybe slightly different.

 

[ctuinstra]

Looking at this diagram, there are many things that have to be correct before the starter relay will engage. The clutch has to be pushed in or the auto trans has to be in park or neutral. The ignition fuses (10A) have to be good to the clutch or the back up fuse (10A) to the transmission position switch has to be good.

Also I noticed that you have the lock on your dash. If you have a programmed key and the black ring around the key switch, it should be reading the key. I don't know at what point that light goes out, but I thought it read the key immediately. I could be off base here, but if the anti-theft is kicking in, it's not going to allow it to start.