Fuel pump fuse keeps blowing

[DPGoblin12]

Hey guys I am currently having issues with my fuel pump system on the goblin. My donor is an 07 cobalt 2.2L NA that has been converted to turbo. I have the zzp E85 AEM fuel pump with 80# injectors.

My predicament is that I got my start-up tune from zzp and was able to start and break-in the engine with no problem (engine has rods and pistons to compensate for turbo setup). Then I started it up the next day and it didn't start. Long story short, I found that the rubber fuel line that connects the pump to the feed line inside the tank popped off. I replaced the line with a slightly longer one cuz I had trouble reconnecting the line. After that, it started and ran great for about a minute then blew the fuel pump fuse. Removed the fuel pump and trimmed the line shorter cuz I was thinking it might be getting restricted from a possible kink. But no dice, it still pops that fuse after running for a minute or two. I also have noticed that the fuel pump fuse gets warm before it blows which tends to lead me to either an issue with my wiring not being a thick enough gauge, or something with the fuel system that is causing the pump to work harder, thus causing the fuse to blow. I did hook up a fuel pressure gauge that had a bleed-off and with the engine running I checked the flow and it seems to be good. With the engine running it keeps a constant 60-65 psi before it blows the fuse.

My question is if anyone has ran into a similar issue like this, before I start spending too much time looking into something that might not be the problem. I know on the 3800 they do have a wire harness kit for e85 pumps to give a little bit thicker wire to compensate for extra amperage, and was just wondering if there was something similar for the ecotec. Any advice is greatly appreciated

 

[Rttoys]

If it’s getting hot, I’d bet there’s an over amperage on the fuel pump or a short to ground. An amp check will varify. Unless the new pump pulls a higher amperage than stock, you shouldn’t need to size up with wiring.

 

[jirwin]

When you put the AEM fuel pump in did you wire it up to its own power or to the stock pump wiring? The instructions say that it needs pretty decent gauge wiring to function properly. I went with 10ga if I remember correctly

 

[Rttoys]

So it does pull a bit more amperage?

 

[Ross]

I have read that the LSJ's stock fuel pump has small wires right out of the factory. I mean it works fine stock, but if you want more power, rewiring the stock pump with bigger wire is a good place to find some gains.

 

[jirwin]

So it does pull a bit more amperage?

Yeah the manual said something like 10-12ga if I remember correctly.

I have read that the LSJ's stock fuel pump has small of wires right out of the factory. I mean it works fine stock, but if you want more power, rewiring the stock pump with bigger wire is a good place to find some gains.

Also true. ZZP sells a big wire kit for the fuel pump to prevent voltage drop at the pump

 

[jirwin]

 

[Rttoys]

Sounds simple. “Jump start” port on the fuse box, to a fuse, to a relay, to pump. Original fuel pump connections to relay to control it all.

 

[jirwin]

Sounds simple. “Jump start” port on the fuse box, to a fuse, to a relay, to pump. Original fuel pump connections to relay to control it all.

That's exactly what I did. I couldn't find a good way to jump into the relay, so I used two of those spade connectors cut down to the width of the relay pin. Not ideal, but it works.