Getting real nervous about heat

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Supply line to the pump should be connected to the bottom port of the radiator. Gravity will always work with in supplying water to your pump in this configuration.
Connected in this manner your radiator could only be half full and still circulate coolant. It won't the other way around as the pump can't pump air.
Always better to have the coolant pulled from the bottom of the radiator where there will be fluid, rather than from the top where it could betrying to circulate steam.
 

Zoom Zoom

Well-Known Member
Here's where it is on the SC head. Found a picture lol, that lets u leave that coolant hose hooked up, and it'll fill everything from the radiator back and let all the air out on that side if u have it in the same spot on the tc
Hook up a blow gun to this hose with 10 psi. and blow coolant threw system until coolant comes out of hose connection then that means you have coolant in entire engine, keep a close eye on coolant tank because it will sink down quick if you need coolant in engine, you don’t want air to get in coolant tank,
THIS IS HOW LONNY EXPLAINED TO ME HOW TO DO IT.
 

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SwerveMonkey

Well-Known Member
Always better to have the coolant pulled from the bottom of the radiator where there will be fluid, rather than from the top where it could betrying to circulate steam.
I need to ask to make sure I understand... is the flow going out of the engine on the passenger(right) side, and cooled liquid coming into the engine on the driver(left) side?

EDIT: I FOUND IT!!!
The hose on the right (passenger) side comes from the top of the head, HOT water. The left side returns cooled water from the radiator to the thermostat to the water pump and then into the engine block.


.... If your tune is still factory the fan won’t turn on till 217°F
I did not realize that the fan only came on at such high temps... I suppose I had an over-abundance of caution ripping things apart.
 
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Christopher Sanchez

Well-Known Member
Hey guys I have tried everything I can think of to bleed the radiator and lines. I have used about a gallon and a half of fluid. Reservoir is half full I have massaged the line going through the frame and run the car to try and get the new thermostat to open but so far I haven't had much luck. I feel the heat coming off the engine and I can feel the radiator is really hot but the line from the thermostat housing to the radiator and the passenger side hose feels cool to the touch. What am I missing here?
Unclear if you have resolved this issue yet or if i am missing part of your concern here however when I first allowed my build to fully get up to temp I was surprised about how long it actually took to warm on both sides of the radiator hoses. 10-15 minutes to finally cycle the rad fan if i remember correctly I was concerned about air pockets also, finally I borrowed a cheap obdll monitor from a friend to monitor coolant temps. I think he said they were like 19.99 on amazon. My rad fan kicks in around 202-205 and brings it down to 195ish then shuts off. Others on the thread seemed to think this number was to high however I owned a 2009 cobalt for 5+ years and the fans did the same. Going on two years with zero issues. I will say that i rarely hear the rad fan kick on unless i am really beating on the thing! ;) temps stay 170s-180s cruising
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
I ordered one of those vacuum fillers (not the one linked because it had horrible reviews) and it arrived today, just ran it through and I can't really tell if it pulled all the air pockets out but it does appear to have done a decent job at creating a vacuum in the system.
 

Kenny123

Well-Known Member
I ordered one of those vacuum fillers (not the one linked because it had horrible reviews) and it arrived today, just ran it through and I can't really tell if it pulled all the air pockets out but it does appear to have done a decent job at creating a vacuum in the system.
Honestly man a couple times around the city and the reservoir dropped and she is running great.
 
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