High IAT2 temps and KR

[ctuinstra]

No I didn’t clean them , Hate to admit it but I don’t know what exactly you are referring to ! Guess I need to goggle LAMINOVA TUBES . I didn’t know that had a correct way to go

If you install the Dual Pass, you will take them out and put them back in a specific direction according to the directions. At that time, it's a good time to clean them (or clean them anyways).

This is what they look like. The get full of dirt and oil from the intake.

Here is a post from a while back that may help also.

Nilbog's Matte Blaze 08 LT

Thanks George - do you happen to have a link? I've just gone through the ZZP website but im only finding the picture of the supercharger kit, not finding any routing diagrams. Maybe im in the wrong section of the website...

dfkitcar.com

 

[ctuinstra]

Crap! Once again, I've been fooled by another TC. You don't have the same intake as the SC cars like ours. Sorry about the confusion.

 

[Ross]

Well I installed my new pump and what a big difference in flow but my IAT2 still running at 156 temp. The temp. didn’t change at all even though I can definitely see a lot better flow !
So what should I do next to try and remedy the heat problem?

It looks like you are running a DF turbo intercooler like this one.
So you won't have an LSJ supercharger intake with the Laminova tubes that Chad is talking about.

Either way, you need air to get in contact with clean aluminum fins to transfer heat to the intercooler water.
So if either side of the system is blocked with oil, dirt, leaves, etc it needs to be cleaned.
Then you need air to get to it. Sounds like you are using the stock DF location for the front cooler.
Does your intercooler air fan work in the front?
You could add the cold air intakes thru the body panels at the front, or relocate your intercooler heat exchanger somewhere where it can get more air. The stock location doesn't get great air flow in my opinion, and is subject to heat soak. If you occasionally punch the throttle, it works fine, but get on the gas a lot, and you have a hard time getting the heat out.

 

[Zoom Zoom]

Crap! Once again, I've been fooled by another TC. You don't have the same intake as the SC cars like ours. Sorry about the confusion.

I had no idea what you was talking about

 

[Zoom Zoom]

It looks like you are running a DF turbo intercooler like this one.
So you won't have an LSJ supercharger intake with the Laminova tubes that Chad is talking about.

Either way, you need air to get in contact with clean aluminum fins to transfer heat to the intercooler water.
So if either side of the system is blocked with oil, dirt, leaves, etc it needs to be cleaned.
Then you need air to get to it. Sounds like you are using the stock DF location for the front cooler.
Does your intercooler air fan work in the front?
You could add the cold air intakes thru the body panels at the front, or relocate your intercooler heat exchanger somewhere where it can get more air. The stock location doesn't get great air flow in my opinion, and is subject to heat soak. If you occasionally punch the throttle, it works fine, but get on the gas a lot, and you have a hard time getting the heat out.
View attachment 23489

I had no idea what you was talking about

Yes the fan works up front. Even at idle it runs 156,
I’m using all stock DF equipment except new pump which works a lot better.. Guess I’ll clean the INTERCOOLER

 

[Briann1177]

There is no way the IAT2 temps on a turbo can be running 156 degrees at idle. Unless you're doing something way crazy like running the engine coolant through the intercooler. Are you sure your TMAP sensor in your intake tube is working correctly? When the engine is cold, turn they key on and compare the IAT and IAT2 temps. They should be within a few degrees of each other. Start the car, let it warm up, and see how IAT2 temps trend compared to ambient.

 

[ctuinstra]

I have to be careful here because the turbos are different than the SC but at idle is when you can have some of the higher temps because of the lack of cool inlet air (low air volume at idle). Obviously at fully boost, the highest amount of compression, will cause the air charge to heat up also. The lowest temps are usually see.with no boost but higher throttle position where the most air is passing through the intake, again with no boost. I’ve monitored ours and long periods of idling raises the IAT2 because of engine heat soak, not normally to 156! Just a few degrees and then during cruising the cool air cools the IAT2 back down.

It is often confused with engine cooling that high RPM will cause the engine to heat up and idling will cool it back whereas IAT2 tend to lower at high RPM (again, no boost) and raise slightly at idle (or low throttle) because of the lack of intake air.

 

[Briann1177]

Turbos are a bit different. Without taking charge cooling into consideration, the IAT2 temperatures will be the coolest at the lowest throttle position. No throttle = no boost. At idle, there should be no difference in temperature between IAT and IAT2. I could completely disconnect my water pump, and my IAT2 temps probably wouldn't move no matter how long I let it sit idling. Again, that's without considering the cooling system.

If you factor in the DF cooling system, then your IAT2 temps will be more elevated over ambient at idle due to the heat soak that you mentioned. I agree, definitely not to 156 degrees. I don't think I've ever seen mine get that high even after a full pull.

 

[Zoom Zoom]

I put the GM STAGE 1 sensors in should I put the original ones back in and see what happens

 

[Zoom Zoom]

I would like to take this opportunity to THANK ALL MY GOBLIN FAMILY FOR THE HELP GETTING THIS SOLVED. I put the stock TMAP and temp is now 88 degrees
Just like Rottys says just because it’s a new part doesn’t mean it will WORK

 

[Zoom Zoom]

There is no way the IAT2 temps on a turbo can be running 156 degrees at idle. Unless you're doing something way crazy like running the engine coolant through the intercooler. Are you sure your TMAP sensor in your intake tube is working correctly? When the engine is cold, turn they key on and compare the IAT and IAT2 temps. They should be within a few degrees of each other. Start the car, let it warm up, and see how IAT2 temps trend compared to ambient.

Say what your not supposed to mix 1/2 & 1/2 antifreeze like for the radiator. Oh crap I guess I’m man enough to admit I’m CRAZY.
WHAT DO YOU RUN JUST PLAIN WATER. I CAN’T be the only person that has done this ! I hope

 

[Gtstorey]

Say what your not supposed to mix 1/2 & 1/2 antifreeze like for the radiator. Oh crap I guess I’m man enough to admit I’m CRAZY.
WHAT DO YOU RUN JUST PLAIN WATER. I CAN’T be the only person that has done this ! I hope

I think he was talking about having the engine cooling system plumbed into the intercooler plumbing. Although pure water will transfer heat better.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

If you run just water, which is okay, adding waterwetter to it will make it more efficient at removing heat from the system.

 

[ctuinstra]

If you run just water, which is okay, adding waterwetter to it will make it more efficient at removing heat from the system.

And some inhibit corrosion and lubricate.

 

[WYGoblin]

Up where I live I don't dare run straight water. The minute I do it will drop below freezing and do some damage. I run a mix of antifreeze and distilled water. That way I am good till about 40-50 below zero. I seen it get that cold here before so no chances for me

 

[Chubbs]

I know this is an older thread, but it seems like the best place for my question.

While cruising around, my IAT2 temps are a good 40 degrees higher than ambient (IAT1) temps. Here are the deets:

-The pump is pumping. New ZZP pump, and flow is visible.
-The pump is pumping in the correct direction (I stuck a string down the filler throat to see)
-The Tmap sensor seems to be working. It reads ambient at vehicle start, then gets warmer and warmer
-The Heat exchanger and lines are also warm/hot to the touch after a run. Coolant is flowing all through the system.
-The IAT2 temps actually go UP when I stop the vehicle at a stop light. They come down again when moving.
-I'm using the NACA duct setup. No fan.
-zzp dual pass is installed. Laminova cores were installed per zzp directions.
-LSJ, with a 2.8 pulley.

I have a theory, that the area in the front of the car is getting heat soaked by the radiator. The IAT temps seem to climb with engine coolant temps. Does anyone else have this issue? If so, what is the fix? I think I'm going to try running an auxillary heat exchanger, but it seems like the stock one should really be adequate, especially while cruising on the highway.

 

[ctuinstra]

-The IAT2 temps actually go UP when I stop the vehicle at a stop light. They come down again when moving.

This is completely normal. Keep in mind, the sensor is tucked away in a corner inside the intake. It takes cool air coming into the intake to cool the sensor in order to read a lower temp. At idle, there is little to no air flow coming into the intake. The engine will heat soak the intake during idle. Once you open the throttle and let the cooler air in, it will read lower.

40 degress is a bit bit. 20-30 above ambient is not bad. The best way to find out is measure the temp of the coolant going in to the HE and compare to the output side. The closer you get to the same, the better. The will never be the same. I know ours is cool to the touch all the time and about ambient. Beyond that, it would require upgraded to the intercooler system and intake in order for it to be any better.

Yes, you may not have enough cool airflow across the HE. We mounted ours high on the rear and I think it's the best that it's going to get short of ice.

 

[Chubbs]

In case the actual temps matter -

IAT1 temps were 89 degrees
IAT2 temp stabilized around 134 just cruising around. After a 2nd and 3rd gear pull, they got up to about 145 or so, then came back down.

I thought that was high....but is it? I hear people talking about just a few degrees above ambient, but it's hard for me to imagine the system is that efficient, especially with hot radiator air blowing around it. At what point does it become "dangerous"?

 

[Gtstorey]

How long had you been cruising around to get 134 degrees? To me cruising would be no boost and therefore no real heat generated by boost. My supercharged 2010 Camaro will see 130 when heat soaked after stopping but will creep down to about 20 degrees over ambient if just cruising. And really never see above about the 130 even when in boost.

I've seen numbers of 150 thrown out as starting to be a point of concern, but never anything to back that up. Are you doing a log when you saw these temps and are you monitoring knock?

 

[Gtstorey]

"In the short 3rd gear pull above, this LSJ powered Cobalt experienced an IAT2 temperature climb from a base of 102 degrees up to 126 degrees over the course of only 3,000 rpms at WOT. If this driver were to continue to floor the throttle through 4th gear afterwards, the temperatures would continue to climb at a similar rate. Once the IAT2 temperatures exceed the 175 degree range it is possible to cause irreversible damage to the pistons and other engine internals. unfortunately these temperatures have NOTHING to do with your engine coolant temperature, and without a specialized gauge there would be no way to monitor it on the car. "

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