High IAT2 temps and KR

Justin

Active Member
Here is how I plumbed the h/e and intercooler. If you need a link of the exact fittings and where I got them I can try and find that for you.
20210213_180008.jpg
20210213_180050.jpg
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
Here is how I plumbed the h/e and intercooler. If you need a link of the exact fittings and where I got them I can try and find that for you. View attachment 20703View attachment 20704
Yes, that would be great. I looked around for a long time. That looks a lot cleaner than what I came up with. I just remember the Derale outlet threads being a very unusual size and having to add in some ridiculous sized adapters in order to be able to work with anything common.
 

Justin

Active Member

Here is where I bought everything some stuff is pricey but they have everything. I will send you a screen shot of my order so you know exactly what to get
Yes, that would be great. I looked around for a long time. That looks a lot cleaner than what I came up with. I just remember the Derale outlet threads being a very unusual size and having to add in some ridiculous sized adapters in order to be able to work with anything common.
 

Gtstorey

Well-Known Member
Here is a link to my install. It's 2.5x24.x7 from Frozenboost.

Did you notice any difference in temps when you lowered/angled it? I'm thinking about going this route.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Did you notice any difference in temps when you lowered/angled it? I'm thinking about going this route.
Not really. It’s not ideal but looks better. I’m thinking about having Kaleb design and print an air guide for the front to capture air and force it through instead of deflecting it down.
 

Justin

Active Member
Thanks for the input. With the Z54 turbo, the h.p. of my car should be well over 300. I think that is where the problem lies. I purchase a type 10 intercooler from frozen boost. It has almost twice the volume as the DF supplied one. I also ordered another heat exchanger like the DF supplied one. I'm going to mount it in the back, under the coolant reservoir, with a fan on it, pulling in fresh air from outside. I will have twice the heat exchanger, and almost twice the intercooler. I'm also plumbing in a zzp intercooler fill reservoir which will help get out all the air. I plan on purchasing a coolant leak tester/vacuum filler from harbor freight to eliminate any air pockets when filling the system.
I found a thread on which circuit to wire the heat exchanger fan to, but it's in the BCM, up front. Is there anywhere to wire the fan in the fuse box area since my fan will be right below it?
Hey do you know what different couplers are needed to make the type 10 work. I'm going to order it but I would like to get everything I need to make it work at the same time.
 

Tim Moland

Well-Known Member
Hey do you know what different couplers are needed to make the type 10 work. I'm going to order it but I would like to get everything I need to make it work at the same time.
If you are talking about the silicone couplers for the intake tube, they are 3". You can buy reducers that will go from 3" to what df supplied, but I thought it would be better to have a more gradual step up. So from my turbo I went with a 2" to 2.5" 45* silicone elbow, then a 2.5" aluminum 45* pipe elbow, then 2.5" to 3" silicone reducer, which hooks up to the intercooler. Then on the other side of the intercooler, a 3" to 2.75" 90* silicone elbow to hook up to df's 2.75" aluminum intake pipe.
20210223_123515.jpg
 

Justin

Active Member
If you are talking about the silicone couplers for the intake tube, they are 3". You can buy reducers that will go from 3" to what df supplied, but I thought it would be better to have a more gradual step up. So from my turbo I went with a 2" to 2.5" 45* silicone elbow, then a 2.5" aluminum 45* pipe elbow, then 2.5" to 3" silicone reducer, which hooks up to the intercooler. Then on the other side of the intercooler, a 3" to 2.75" 90* silicone elbow to hook up to df's 2.75" aluminum intake pipe.
View attachment 20875
Ok perfect thanks thats what I needed to know. Did the df supplied intercooler mounting bracket holes line up good with the type 10 or did you have to modify it?
 

Tim Moland

Well-Known Member
Ok perfect thanks thats what I needed to know. Did the df supplied intercooler mounting bracket holes line up good with the type 10 or did you have to modify it?
No chance of the DF brackets working. I had to copy theirs and make modifications to fit the type 10. It is wider in both directions. I made them out of 16g steel sheet from Lowes. It is a lot thinner than the df ones, but once it gets all bolted up, it is plenty strong. This is the best picture I have of them.
received_135245328454993.jpeg

Sorry about the text covering most of the bends.
 

Justin

Active Member
If you are talking about the silicone couplers for the intake tube, they are 3". You can buy reducers that will go from 3" to what df supplied, but I thought it would be better to have a more gradual step up. So from my turbo I went with a 2" to 2.5" 45* silicone elbow, then a 2.5" aluminum 45* pipe elbow, then 2.5" to 3" silicone reducer, which hooks up to the intercooler. Then on the other side of the intercooler, a 3" to 2.75" 90* silicone elbow to hook up to df's 2.75" aluminum intake pipe.
View attachment 20875
Have you done any testing with the new intercooler? I just ordered the type 10 too and was wondering if it made a big difference.
 

Tim Moland

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, I've made excellent progress on getting the IAT2 temps down. I installed a type 10 intercooler from frozen boost, an additional heat exchanger like the one sold from DF(also from frozen boost), this one with a 7" fan(located in the engine bay), and a zzp fill kit to eliminate all bubbles. I'll post pictures of the setup and a hp tuners file for anyone that has hptuners to look at.
20210228_222220.jpg
20210228_222058.jpg
20210228_222026.jpg
20210228_222307.jpg
20210228_222321.jpg
20210228_222407.jpg

I installed a zzp intercooler pump and got a lot better flow then the stock Bosch pump. I also routed the intake out into the fresh air on the right side of the engine bay. It reduced the intake temps quite a bit. Especially with heat soak caused by the engine getting hot. For people without the ability to read the hptuners file, I'm seeing intake temps 5 degrees above ambient. IAT2 temps run about 15 degrees higher than IAT's while cruising. Under full boost, they are about 45 degrees above IAT's. After the hard pull, they take about 12-15 seconds to get back down to normal.
I was having problems with high KR(caused by detonation). Up to 8 degrees at times. This has all but eliminated this. Do some research on knock sensor clocking. If the sensors are not at the right position from the factory, it will read false knock. It's very simple to clock them, the hardest part being getting to the bolt to loosen them. I have both of mine clocked at 9 o'clock. This has eliminated knock to cylinder 3 only. The highest it sees is 3 degrees and it's only for a split second and disappears as boost kicks in.
 

Attachments

Gtstorey

Well-Known Member
Below is a mock up that I'm considering for Heat Exchanger and air filter/intake. The intake pipe is a slightly modified K/N intake that was on my donor. My initial plan is to run it without a fan, but if it is to warm I may add 7" fan or two. The heat exchanger has a core size of 8"x24"x2.5".

I'm also looking at putting an engine cover of some sort in, possibly an aluminum composite or honeycomb panel.

Thoughts?

21050
 

Tim Moland

Well-Known Member
Below is a mock up that I'm considering for Heat Exchanger and air filter/intake. The intake pipe is a slightly modified K/N intake that was on my donor. My initial plan is to run it without a fan, but if it is to warm I may add 7" fan or two. The heat exchanger has a core size of 8"x24"x2.5".

I'm also looking at putting an engine cover of some sort in, possibly an aluminum composite or honeycomb panel.

Thoughts?

View attachment 21050
I like the intake. It should get plenty of cold air up there. I worry that the heat exchanger will be hot from the motor being so close. Air flow is that area is not very good. If you plan on enclosing all that together in one space with an engine cover, it will recirculate the same hot air through the heat exchanger.
 

Gtstorey

Well-Known Member
Engine cover will be between the heat exchanger and engine. I'm hoping to have similar results to ctuinstra. I'll leave the hoses long enough that I can raise it up some if needed.

Another option would be to move it vertical over the strut cross brace.
 

Tim Moland

Well-Known Member
Engine cover will be between the heat exchanger and engine. I'm hoping to have similar results to ctuinstra. I'll leave the hoses long enough that I can raise it up some if needed.

Another option would be to move it vertical over the strut cross brace.
Are you planning on running a windshield? In my car, with a hood and windshield, the air rolls over the car causing the engine heat to come back into the cockpit from the back. I think ctuinstra is running without a windshield and that will allow air to flow better back there.
That being said, your heat exchanger is huge, so it will handle more cooling then the stock heat exchanger.
 

Gtstorey

Well-Known Member
I'm probably going to try and run the windshield but if the heat is a problem I may not, especially during the hotter months.

If this doesn't work, about all I'll be out is the cost of the heat exchanger and I'll go to a stock setup. I really like the simplicity of this setup though.
 
Last edited:
Top