JeffInWA's Extended City Goblin SS/SC 06 Doner

JeffInWA

Member
Hello all,

I got the word today that my frame will be #160, probably sent out in July. I've had the doner a few weeks now and have been driving it. It's an 06 supercharged SS. The cobalt seems to be in good shape mechanically. There's a bunch of exhaust leaks, but I don't care as I don't need those parts, and the interior is shot, body panels loose, paint is wrecked and so on. It has been lowered though, so I'm concerned as to how the previous owner lowered it (cut springs probably?). I may need to get some stock cobalt suspension parts later. I'm planning on using the wheels, although I wouldn't mind getting a little taller tire on them.

I'm selling my motorcycles and moving to a Goblin. I while back I had a pretty major altercation with a kamikaze deer, and my family has wanted me off of bikes ever since. I told them if I was giving up bikes for something else it was either going to be a Goblin or an Ultralight plane, so they all encouraged me to go the Goblin route. Every summer I drive from central Washington state to Las Vegas for a conference (Defcon), and in the past I have made a bike trip out of it. Now I'm going to be taking the Goblin on that trip. Anyone else here take their Goblin's on extended journeys?

cobalt.jpg
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Well-Known Member
Jeff, welcome to the forum. From 10 feet away your donor looks fairly good, but we will take your word for the issues with the car. Since you have your kit already ordered, you have a great start getting your car build going. Please know there are some Goblin owners in Washington, you will want to get in touch with them. Scott - IDRVSLO - is one person you will want to get to know. His car is 'finished' (a Goblin is never really finished) and can be a good source of information for you.
 

Motoracer110

Well-Known Member
Welcome Jeff (my name as well ) you have a nice looking donor and will be an awesome build. I was thinking of doing a Vegas drive as well when i get my build finished about a 10 hr drive for me or 6 hr drive in the goblin ;)
 

ctuinstra

Well-Known Member
There was a builder that drove from Kansas City to Dallas and back in his car. It's doable. Most likely will hit rain or get one heck of a sunburn, but if you ride a bike you know all that already.

Don't sweat the suspension issue. The kit comes with new fronts and there is a coilovers upgrade for the rear (donor front). You'll find you will need to replace most of the suspension components anyways (bushing, etc).

Welcome to the forum!
 

JeffInWA

Member
I picked up my frame on November 13th in Spokane. I wanted to mention to anyone hauling their extended frame crate with a Lowes 5' x 10' trailer, it will fit with about an inch in width to spare, and will stick out the back about 2 inches. You'll need to fold the ramp all the way forward to haul it.

I'll do what I can on this project through the winter, but I don't think I can get it to rolling and still fit through my shop doors. Does anyone know the total width of a Goblin with tires?
 

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JSATX

Well-Known Member
I picked up my frame on November 13th in Spokane. I wanted to mention to anyone hauling their extended frame crate with a Lowes 5' x 10' trailer, it will fit with about an inch in width to spare, and will stick out the back about 2 inches. You'll need to fold the ramp all the way forward to haul it.

I'll do what I can on this project through the winter, but I don't think I can get it to rolling and still fit through my shop doors. Does anyone know the total width of a Goblin with tires?
mine is 67”
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Well-Known Member
Jeff,
The track width on the Cobalt is just under 59 inches (58.8). If you add the section width of your widest tire minus the offset X2. In the case of my wheel and tire choice, I will be adding a total of 7.6 inches. I determined this by the 10 inch (255mm) tire section minus the 1.2 inch (30mm) offset twice: 10.0 - 1.2 - 1.2 = 7.6 inches. This makes my total max width at 66.4 inches. This same formula should work for your car. let me know if you need help determining this.
Tim
 

Ross

Well-Known Member
I picked up my frame on November 13th in Spokane. I wanted to mention to anyone hauling their extended frame crate with a Lowes 5' x 10' trailer, it will fit with about an inch in width to spare, and will stick out the back about 2 inches. You'll need to fold the ramp all the way forward to haul it.

I'll do what I can on this project through the winter, but I don't think I can get it to rolling and still fit through my shop doors. Does anyone know the total width of a Goblin with tires?
76.875" on the front, 74.5" on the rear. With the wide tires. It can change a bit based on the A arms hiem joint positions.
 

JeffsGoblin

Well-Known Member
I'll do what I can on this project through the winter, but I don't think I can get it to rolling and still fit through my shop doors. Does anyone know the total width of a Goblin with tires?
What about getting some skinny spare tires from the junk yard? I wonder what the width would be using those?
 

JeffInWA

Member
There may be hope - my door opening is 69", or 72" if I remove the doors. If I just measured the offset on my wheels correctly (from the doner), then I will be at 65.15". So I may be good until I get different wheels/tires.

Thanks for the info JSATX, Sasqwatch, Ross and Jeff - you made my day.
 

Ark :D

Well-Known Member
Jeff, I saw in another thread that you were considering getting silicon heater hose with a smaller outside diameter to pull through your frame. Did you end up doing that? I'm having a hell of a time getting my heater hose pulled, even with DF's little drill tool...
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
Jeff, I saw in another thread that you were considering getting silicon heater hose with a smaller outside diameter to pull through your frame. Did you end up doing that? I'm having a hell of a time getting my heater hose pulled, even with DF's little drill tool...
Shoot me an image of the lube you are using on the hose.
 

Oldchevyguy

Well-Known Member
I had no problem pulling the supplied hose through. I used lots of tire wet, and an electric winch. I used the slug method, but if I had to do it again, would use the newer method of drilling the two holes and threading the rope through the hole a clamping it.
I used a pullzit electric winch, but a ATV winch is similar. Even a come a long would work too.
 

Ark :D

Well-Known Member
Shoot me an image of the lube you are using on the hose.
I don't want to take over this thread, but ... it's just standard Tire Wet. This brand:


Damaged the nylon strap on the puller tool, also ... it wound a little funny on my first attempt and ended up frayed a bit on the one edge so it's looking worse for wear now. I'll attempt the method mentioned by Oldchevyguy in the last post, tomorrow.
 

Waterdriver

Well-Known Member
If you haven't already, pre-wet the inside of the chassis tube with a rag liberally wetted down with Tire Wet. Pass trimmer line through the chassis tube and tie the rag to the middle of that line. Pull it back and forth a couple of times, wetting the rag each time.

Before doing the above, the hose kept getting stuck at about the first bend in the chassis tube, if pulling the hose from the front to the back of the frame.
Good luck!
 

JeffInWA

Member
Jeff, I saw in another thread that you were considering getting silicon heater hose with a smaller outside diameter to pull through your frame. Did you end up doing that? I'm having a hell of a time getting my heater hose pulled, even with DF's little drill tool...
I tried the trimmer line/mini paint roller/tire wet thing, and also heated up the hose as much as my shop heater would do (hanged it in front of the heater for about an hour). The furthest I ever got was to the first bend, so I just bought the silicone hose instead.

Easily pulled 7/8" ID hose through one side, then sent it through the other side without any lube at all, and by simply pushing it - no rope necessary. I had to order some adapter couplers to mate it to the other tubing, but I think it will look good this way. Also I have some large shrink tubing for where the tubing exits the frame to keep water out of the frame. I'll post some pictures when the couplers get here.

I don't expect that 7/8" tubing will make a big difference in cooling. Guess I'm going to find out.
 

Ark :D

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the response. I'd be going the same route, had I not had success yesterday pulling my hoses. Thank God that's done. -.-;;
 
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