Obligatory update.
4hrs outside in the crappy weather today with Scott's help. Always a help. Solid friend, 10/10.
-runs, but haven't fixed the coolant hose yet
-waiting on drivers axle to move under its own power, going to try OTTP again as they seem to have changed their F40 drivers side swap to a real axle and NOT a GM factory part... but we'll see, it's the cheapest alternative to get it moving.
-brakes installed
-proportioning valve installed
-brakes work
-bled the clutch, seal is supposed to go on the nipple and THEN you put the block onto the nipple. Make sure you do that in that order. Oh! Was not thrilled to see a mass amount of garbage come out of the clutch line when the fluid came out, turned my white rag red and chunky like actual rust flakes. Something tells me I'm going to lose a clutch line at some point due to it rusting out. Also glad I checked the line flow off of the block/transmission before I tried forcing all of that into the new t.o.b.
-clutch seemingly works and has a good feel(whole axle thing needs to happen before I can see if it actually works...)
-tubular subframe installed, **** are those bolt heads close to the transmission case, like... really really close

-drivers seal installed, with modified side cover, need to trim the inside rear mount outside when i pull it out next. I installed the seat to bleed brakes and used a hand pump pressurized bleeding system and then bled each corner traditionally.
-turned the front coilovers around so the knobs are on inside
@Traé
-swapped the rear coilovers under the mounts
@Traé and to the correct side, they were on the wrong side to mount the ebrake cables properly
I'm sure there is stuff I'm missing because it's been a long minute, but obviously all of the supporting items had to be installed as well to get it to this point (hubs, calipers, braided brake lines etc) but nothing extravagant, just enough to get it on the ground and rolling (SICK!)
