Joe's 2009 F40 SS/TC #470

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I have that sane intake from a parts car. Hmmm...
It makes tuning the MAF interesting. I have to use a different tune when swapping from driver only windshield to standard windshield. And my slow take off from idle probably suffers from it, especially when combined with combined with a puck style clutch. But I don't spend much time in traffic so hasn't been worth doing anything different. Especially when I don't mind playing with the tuning.
 

WYGoblin

Well-Known Member
I don't think either way is wrong now, just two different ways. Do you have a part number on that hose? That looks like it fits perfect.
I think it is E72049. It is the only hose number I have wrote down in my notes. I assume it is because I had to buy a new one due to the fact I cut it too short to begin with.
 

comegetjoe

Goblin Guru
Obligatory update.
4hrs outside in the crappy weather today with Scott's help. Always a help. Solid friend, 10/10.

-runs, but haven't fixed the coolant hose yet
-waiting on drivers axle to move under its own power, going to try OTTP again as they seem to have changed their F40 drivers side swap to a real axle and NOT a GM factory part... but we'll see, it's the cheapest alternative to get it moving.
-brakes installed
-proportioning valve installed
-brakes work
-bled the clutch, seal is supposed to go on the nipple and THEN you put the block onto the nipple. Make sure you do that in that order. Oh! Was not thrilled to see a mass amount of garbage come out of the clutch line when the fluid came out, turned my white rag red and chunky like actual rust flakes. Something tells me I'm going to lose a clutch line at some point due to it rusting out. Also glad I checked the line flow off of the block/transmission before I tried forcing all of that into the new t.o.b.
-clutch seemingly works and has a good feel(whole axle thing needs to happen before I can see if it actually works...)
-tubular subframe installed, **** are those bolt heads close to the transmission case, like... really really close :eek:
-drivers seal installed, with modified side cover, need to trim the inside rear mount outside when i pull it out next. I installed the seat to bleed brakes and used a hand pump pressurized bleeding system and then bled each corner traditionally.
-turned the front coilovers around so the knobs are on inside @Traé
-swapped the rear coilovers under the mounts @Traé and to the correct side, they were on the wrong side to mount the ebrake cables properly

I'm sure there is stuff I'm missing because it's been a long minute, but obviously all of the supporting items had to be installed as well to get it to this point (hubs, calipers, braided brake lines etc) but nothing extravagant, just enough to get it on the ground and rolling (SICK!):cool:
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
-bled the clutch, seal is supposed to go on the nipple and THEN you put the block onto the nipple. Make sure you do that in that order.
Reemphasizing for the folks that haven't heard this before! Even if you have the seal on the nipple, make sure there's not another seal in the elbow, particularly if you installed new clutch hydraulic hardware at any time. Your chances of a leak-free install are greatly diminished if there's a seal in the elbow and/or not on the nipple upon install!
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Reemphasizing for the folks that haven't heard this before! Even if you have the seal on the nipple, make sure there's not another seal in the elbow, particularly if you installed new clutch hydraulic hardware at any time. Your chances of a leak-free install are greatly diminished if there's a seal in the elbow and/or not on the nipple upon install!
Yes, I had this problem, and it took a long time to figure out what was going on. Brake fluid would go down into the bellhousing with no evidence the leak was at the nipple.
 

comegetjoe

Goblin Guru
It drives :cool:

I was able to move this F40 SS/TC car under its own power today and let me tell you, it's a great feeling. The SPEC clutch is light and feels like a stock pedal, the ZFR turbo makes glorious noises with an open pipe and the axle that I ordered fits just about as good as one would think.

What's all required to get the MCO from DF?
 

comegetjoe

Goblin Guru
One last look before the inevitable winter mummification. At least I have good strapping points this year.
Battery is out, seats are out and in the spring we'll pull the drivetrain to drop the trans. Im dripping a clear fluid from the between the engine and trans, but we'll dive into that when that time comes around:rolleyes:
Until then, Motor Trend soft cover (size small and "fits up to 157"") under heavy tarp, probably overkill, but better safe than soggy or sorry.
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Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Living in the south all my life, I just can’t comprehend this. :confused: We are at the season where we can drive the goblin comfortably.
 

Markm

Well-Known Member
Living in the south all my life, I just can’t comprehend this. :confused: We are at the season where we can drive the goblin comfortably.
The wife drove hers to work again tonight. Hopefully she will get a good picture in the morning when she gets off
 

comegetjoe

Goblin Guru
SPRING 2025!!

MCO requested.
LLC Created.

70° Today!!

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Definitely some unwanted surprises after uncovering from this season, nothing major.

-coolant drips have sprung up, mostly where those stupid spring clamps are. All of the new worm clamps have held up great and the new parts of the system are dry.
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-clutch line at the F35/F40 block on top of the transmission has begun to drip. Ummm, what? New line and o-ring from DF, new seal and block with seal from rock auto, definitely brake fluid. This one baffles me a bit...
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-cats, GD cats, snuck under the tarp and paw prints are all over the floor pans. Thankfully no smells, no mice and no dead cats. I took the seats out before the season was over.

-since no bracket came with the F40 kit, this transmission shifter bracket needs to be remade or have this one modified for DF's shifter cables. I need the openings where the pinch points are to sit 2" further back. I may have to call in a favor from a co-worker or just start replicating it in 3/16 plate steel.
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ah.b.normal

Goblin Guru
-since no bracket came with the F40 kit, this transmission shifter bracket needs to be remade or have this one modified for DF's shifter cables. I need the openings where the pinch points are to sit 2" further back. I may have to call in a favor from a co-worker or just start replicating it in 3/16 plate steel.
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Look at my posts under Other Builds, some of my latest show my CAD work for cable housing stops but in the console. None of my work is proprietary and free to copy or just laugh at or maybe inspire? But FREE! Always the right price!
 

comegetjoe

Goblin Guru
Sweet! Easy fix for us F40 guys using DF cables and an stock GMF40 shifter cable bracket on the transmission. @LittleRipper @Desert Sasqwatch @RobC76

It's a simple plate that slides over the existing studs, moves the shifter cables back 2.5".

I might try again if I can find another piece of plate laying around. Why?
1. I wanted 2" but mismeasured twice. Yeah, twice. Those two holes in the middle should've been almost online with each other.
2. I need to bend the mounting plate just past the rear mounting stud 15° to the drivers side to get the cables straighter, although there is currently no binding and operation is smooth.
3. Id like to move them up a little also.

I'm going to hook up the DF shifter and see if it actually works with the F40, as I think its just been theorized that it's supposed to work so far. It's built, mounted, just need to connect cables and get the cables adjusted and rebleed the clutch.

It's supposed to rain this weekend, so we'll see.

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Desert Sasqwatch

Bigfoot Goblin
Nice! A little tweaking and it will line up perfectly!

I didn't get the cable bracket, (the aluminum one), was this apart supplied with F40 kit (ZZP) or a bracket that was sourced by DF? I can't quite read the number on it - a GM part?

Like my modified Acura 6 speed shifter, I will be using an Acura sourced cable mount bracket.
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A little modification here and there with an extension plate and I should have this potential problem resolved.
 
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