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JS City Goblin - 2010 LS

JSATX

Goblin Guru
So I already have turned off VATs but didn’t think to try getting a key cut with no chip. I’ll get one cut and see if that will start it. Good idea.

OR

I just unplug anti theft device and see if it still starts
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
If your goal is to not duct tape and baling wire your key chip to the anti-theft device, then unplugging it is probably the way to go. :) If that works, then you can throw all that crap in the trash can and just have a nice clean button start. Then again, there might be some weird thought that the system still might need to see that module plugged in despite you disabling VATS.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
So I already have turned off VATs but didn’t think to try getting a key cut with no chip. I’ll get one cut and see if that will start it. Good idea.

OR

I just unplug anti theft device and see if it still starts
Please report back what works, as I am going to be in the same boat.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Ok so the car started and ran fine with the anti theft device completely unplugged.

However the theft icon was illuminated on the dash and didn’t go away.

So yes it appears to work, however I think I’ll still just attach the chip to it and tuck it away under the dash to keep the light off.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Also with the newest tune the car is making 312ftlbs torque at 4,420 and 297hp at 6,450. These are street numbers according to HPT.

What’s interesting is the HP was still climbing all the way until rev limit. Which is surprising as I expected it to peak at 6 or 6.2k. Could def break 300 by raising it another 500 rpm.

But I plan to adjust the wastegate for less boost. I peaked at 29.4 psi MAP absolute and I’d really rather stop it around 9psi so closer to 23psi or so. Hopefully this will keep me from spinning as much too.
 
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Johvans

Well-Known Member
Also with the newest tune the car is making 312ftlbs torque at 4,420 and 297hp at 6,450. These are street numbers according to HPT.

What’s interesting is the HP was still climbing all the way until rev limit. Which is surprising as I expected it to peak at 6 or 6.2k. Could def break 300 by raising it another 500 rpm.

But I plan to adjust the wastegate for less boost. I peaked at 29.4 psi MAP absolute and I’d really rather stop it around 9psi so closer to 23psi or so. Hopefully this will keep me from spinning as much too.
I need your motivation.. and to be done with school....
 

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
Also with the newest tune the car is making 312ftlbs torque at 4,420 and 297hp at 6,450. These are street numbers according to HPT.

What’s interesting is the HP was still climbing all the way until rev limit. Which is surprising as I expected it to peak at 6 or 6.2k. Could def break 300 by raising it another 500 rpm.

But I plan to adjust the wastegate for less boost. I peaked at 29.4 psi MAP absolute and I’d really rather stop it around 9psi so closer to 23psi or so. Hopefully this will keep me from spinning as much too.
Have you done any work to the engine internals? Or basically just put the Saab kit on and see what it does? 14psi seems to be a lot on a 2.2 motor.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Have you done any work to the engine internals? Or basically just put the Saab kit on and see what it does? 14psi seems to be a lot on a 2.2 motor.
No work at all. It’s a lot. Certainly too much. But I don’t care, I have all the forged internals ready to go into the next motor when this one lets go.

To be honest the engine doesn’t even feel that stressed. I don’t believe in raising the rpm limiter which I think helps too.
 

KJP

Well-Known Member
I would be interested in seeing how accurate the hpt numbers are once you get it on a Dyno and everything dialed in.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
I would be interested in seeing how accurate the hpt numbers are once you get it on a Dyno and everything dialed in.
Agreed. From the research I’ve done on it, it’s one of those things where consistency matters more than accuracy.

Meaning it may or may not be exactly correct, but neither is a dyno. It can still be used to evaluate a change in the car. If I peak at 297 and then adjust AFR or spark and then peak at 270 I did something wrong.

ZZP says the stock 09-10 engines are the weakest and will hold up to 260. The way I see it I’ve cut 50% of the weight off a cobalt and have increased the power over a “safe” level by only 12%. I’m pretty confident I’ll be ok. And if not the engines are literally $300.

I hope to get on a dyno in the next month or so.
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
It took me awhile to put my finger on what that reminds me of, but I think I figured it out. For some reason it reminds me of the Texas longhorn. Well, minus the ears, horns, and concave facial features.

*Edit* The side mirrors are the horns.

Longhorn.png
 
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JSATX

Goblin Guru
Scored another engine today for $230. There was just no way I could pass it up at that price. This will be the basis of turbo 2 build. Weisco pistons, eagle rods, LNF valves, supertech springs, Saab intake etc.

5919EC73-868A-4F71-A727-97CD31CEA60D.jpeg
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Also got all the accessory’s. If anyone has broken parts they need replaced hit me up. Throttle, intake, alternator whatever. 2009 2.2.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
I tried so hard to find a good engine for Tiffany's car a while back and couldn't find one for months. At least not something reasonable and somewhat local. And look at you, you just pluck them off of trees!
 
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