LDK Block LSJ Head

[ncgoblin]

Hey all,

I am going to start my LDK / LSJ build soon as some of you know I had used engine issues and I have decided I’m just going to build it correct with a new block. I have to pull the main girdle and swap the crank reluctor wheel so I need to cap off this turbo oil feed since I’m going supercharged. The hole is a little over 18mm what do you all think? I have contemplated putting my oil pressure sender in that location. Funny thing is out of all things I have done threading bolt holes is not one. I will update this thread to include my build process.
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[Dsteinhorst]

Gold standard:
Buy/make threaded aluminum bung
Turn down OD to match
Weld into block

Those are all pretty specialized things that I certainly couldn't do in my garage, but I killed an engine once by tapping an oil port, so I'd be cautious.

 

[ncgoblin]

Gold standard:
Buy/make threaded aluminum bung
Turn down OD to match
Weld into block

Those are all pretty specialized things that I certainly couldn't do in my garage, but I killed an engine once by tapping an oil port, so I'd be cautious.

Thanks for the tip this is exactly what I was looking for. I have to bring the head to a machine shop anyways I’ll see if this is something they are capable of doing.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

5/8 inch rubber plug with hole down the middle, X2 5/8 inch thick washers, a bolt that fits snuggly through the plug hole, and wingnut. Make something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/oatey-1-1-2-in-gripper-plastic-mechanical-test-plug-33400/100342630

There is not a lot of crankcase pressure and no welding involved.

 

[ncgoblin]

5/8 inch rubber plug with hole down the middle, X2 5/8 inch thick washers, a bolt that fits snuggly through the plug hole, and wingnut. Make something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/oatey-1-1-2-in-gripper-plastic-mechanical-test-plug-33400/100342630

There is not a lot of crankcase pressure and no welding involved.

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[Ross]

That would work.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

those rubber plugs don't last very long. for anything other than water. I had one in a tailshaft housing of a transmission that came with an extra hole on top for another sensor we didn't have. That thing always leaked and it was never submersed in transmission fluid.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

That's the one! They are cheap and easy to replace if it happens to leak at some point in the future - and no grinding and welding involved.

 

[ncgoblin]

Hey all I finally got the bottom end complete but I have some questions one cylinder has little black marks not sure if this is typical or if my clearances are off a bit on my rings I double checked them but just paranoid. See one with and without marks.

 

[ncgoblin]

I may just be paranoid I cleaned both off with rag and both have the black marks.

 

[ctuinstra]

I think you are reasonably paranoid. Those marks seem to go all the way up to the very edge of the cylinder. Rings don't go up that far. The gap of the rings is very important, but if that gap is that far off now when it's cold, it will quickly lock up when you start it up and make a huge mess. I don't think the rings can be causing that. It looks superficial.

 

[ncgoblin]

Here are photos of each cylinder my question is it normal to have black marks they have no texture to them so that’s good.

 

[Ross]

Byproduct of combustion? It almost looks like the head gasket was oozing stuff down into the cylinder.
No scoring in the bores, still see some cross hatching from the last honing.
Long as they are within spec, I wouldn't worry about the stains.

 

[ncgoblin]

Byproduct of combustion? It almost looks like the head gasket was oozing stuff down into the cylinder.
No scoring in the bores, still see some cross hatching from the last honing.
Long as they are within spec, I wouldn't worry about the stains.

This is a new LDK block I did some reading last night and some other guys had these marks with their total seal rings. I am wondering if the marks at the top are from when I installed the pistons. The good news is everything is very smooth when turning and the marks are smooth as if it’s a finish removing from the newly installed piston/rings.

 

[ncgoblin]

Hey guys just about to start the engine but I cranked without fuel to see if oil pressure would show up the gauge is showing 0. I am getting 6v at the sender Signal wire and I moved locations to a block hole right where the transmission meets the block and below the oil filter. I am wondering if this new location will not show any pressure and if this is my problem. Before I relocate to the factory oil sensor location any thoughts? This hole should be on an LNF for you turbo guys.

 

[Ross]

I'm not really sure what I am looking at in your pictures...
Is the LNF block the same oil pressure gauge location as the LSJ?

Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

You should've got that on video! :D

dfkitcar.com

 

[ncgoblin]

I'm not really sure what I am looking at in your pictures...
Is the LNF block the same oil pressure gauge location as the LSJ?

Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

You should've got that on video! :D

dfkitcar.com

The oil cooler is different on the LDK block so I am unable to use the same threaded hole. The LDK has a oil hole right below the cooler and I thought this would be a great spot other then using the factory oil sensor but I am not getting any oil pressure. The likelihood of my actual oil pump being defective is low there is not much to that unit but possible.

 

[ncgoblin]

The oil hole on the block I used will not work so I swapped to the oil sensor hole with a 12mm to NPT 90 degree fitting and an oil rated hose. I then relocated the oil sender to a threaded hole off the midway point of the oil pan I am getting 70psi on startup and 50psi warmed yay! Engine sounds good bringing it for a ride tomorrow.

 

[Rauq]

Do you have long term plans for the motor beyond an M62? Or did you go the LDK block route just because it was as easy to source and stouter than an LSJ block? My understanding is that an M62 can't make more power than an LSJ block can handle, and the LDK block + rotating assembly is about as strong as the factory offered in an Ecotec. Just wondering if there's a turbo in your future or anything like that.

 

[ncgoblin]

Do you have long term plans for the motor beyond an M62? Or did you go the LDK block route just because it was as easy to source and stouter than an LSJ block? My understanding is that an M62 can't make more power than an LSJ block can handle, and the LDK block + rotating assembly is about as strong as the factory offered in an Ecotec. Just wondering if there's a turbo in your future or anything like that.

Good questions,

I had worn lower rod bearings on (2) of my previous LSJ engines and ended up talking to Jeffrey Reiland regarding a replacement crank which would have been $350 not a bad deal at all. He ended up convincing me on the new LDK. He ends up purchasing new complete LDKs and tears them down. I bought the entire bottom end for around $1250 shipped. I am able to recoup about $200 by selling the rods/pistons but its another $500 for diamond pistons / rings. The decision was made because I was unable to find an engine builder for a 4 cylinder locally. If someone built it then the cost would probably be around $800 but done right. I decided to build the engine myself and I wanted to start with a new bottom end so there were no issues. I watched a lot of videos, read all specs / manuals, and just took my time. I really enjoyed the build and it was honestly not bad.

Now that I know how to build an engine would I have bought an LDK block if I had 2 LSJ used blocks? Nope

In my minimal research the LDK has a newer casting and is a bit stronger then the LSJ sleeved block. In saying this some people have had 500hp on a LSJ block with upgraded rods / pistons. I am now planning to go over 300hp anytime soon so I really would have been fine with all stock internals.

Cost breakdown

LDK / Diamond Pistons - $1,750
Head cleaning, new seats - $200
ARP Studs, Rod bearings, Rod Bolts, Girdle Bolts, lubes - $200-300 maybe?
Total: $2200ish

LSJ:
New Crank - $350
Diamond Pistons to support over 300hp - $500
Head cleaning, new seats - $200
ARP Studs, Rod bearings, Rod Bolts, Girdle Bolts, lubes - $200-300 maybe
Total: $1300ish

Do I plan to go turbo? No because I 50% drive on the road and 50% auto cross. If I had a track frame I would seriously think about a turbo. The power I have now is more then required for auto cross events.