Mayor West's 09 SS/TC Ext. Track Turbo #191 [South Carolina] [Registered] [Sold]
- Thread starter Mayor West
- Start date
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
Tonight I wired and installed my 3D printed dash including 4 buttons and the ignition key. I used @bradr's ignition bypass and now have a very easy push start for my goblin. Very pleased with it. Those who can't understand me because I talk too fast, engine start doesn't cut the car on because my foot isn't on the clutch.
Those who'd like to do the same I made the links are all on the previous page and the STL is on my 3D printer file thread.
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
Took it for its first 30m drive today. Temps stayed under 199, ambient air was about 50-52 degrees and my intake temps were about 55 or so. Pretty pleased with everything. The tune is still a work in progress but I'm learning and trying to get it as drivable as possible before professional alignment and tuning.
It's incredibly twitchy with light throttle, I know this is unavoidable and we can't edit the TPS sensitivity but I need to try and help it ease out with some more tuning, which some folks have brought up before.
I aligned it for the second time and it's much more drivable now, no tire screeching. I only went 45-50mph butbibwas data logging the whole time. Hoping it provided some good data.
The sounds are intoxicating.
It's incredibly twitchy with light throttle, I know this is unavoidable and we can't edit the TPS sensitivity but I need to try and help it ease out with some more tuning, which some folks have brought up before.
I aligned it for the second time and it's much more drivable now, no tire screeching. I only went 45-50mph butbibwas data logging the whole time. Hoping it provided some good data.
The sounds are intoxicating.
WYGoblin
Well-Known Member
Where are your front shock settings at on the knobs. My throttle was really bad over any sort of bump but softened up the front, I think I am 3 settings from the lightest, and it really helped me.
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
Yesterday I started to pull the motor to fix my leaking RMS (assuming it's that). I got as far as getting the subfame/suspension off and unhooked everything off the motor and drained fluids. Wednesday I plan on pulling it and assessing where my oil leak is.
I've been talking to a speed shop in Taylorsville, NC about tuning... so it looks like I may be heading up to Redemption Garage on Presidents' day (Federal Holiday so I have it off). He said to estimate about max ~375ish to the wheels so I'll be pleased if it's near/around there.
I'm hoping to have the RMS (or whatever issue it is) fixed and smoked tested before then, 2 weeks countdown started yesterday!
I've been talking to a speed shop in Taylorsville, NC about tuning... so it looks like I may be heading up to Redemption Garage on Presidents' day (Federal Holiday so I have it off). He said to estimate about max ~375ish to the wheels so I'll be pleased if it's near/around there.
I'm hoping to have the RMS (or whatever issue it is) fixed and smoked tested before then, 2 weeks countdown started yesterday!
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Do you have the Opel fuel injectors and upgraded fuel pump cam? That estimate for a 'stock' fueling system on the LNF seems a bit high for WHP, but if they can get you there I'll be next inline. 
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
I'm completely stock in terms of internals & fueling. I have an S252SXE and a thick BMW intercooler and that's what he said I could expect on 93.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
People are getting somewhat close to that with the stock turbo and intercooler with tuning so I don't see how it's that far off.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
People are getting somewhat close to that with the stock turbo and intercooler with tuning so I don't see how it's that far off.
Zoom Zoom
Goblin Guru
I like the way Ross smoke tested his, You going to do about the same way to yours
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
Catch me up with what you're talking about, what'd Ross do to smoketest his?
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
Oh, what I mean by smoke testing is shake down testing and the like... not literally smoking.
Zoom Zoom
Goblin Guru
Sure I knew that ! What ever that is LOL
Ross
Goblin Guru
I made a video of using a smoke machine as a tool to find vacuum leaks.
It can also be used to find leaks in a leak down test.
It can also be used to find leaks in a leak down test.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
I've had conversation about LNF HP numbers with the guys at RPM Motorsports out here in Mesa and the short story from them is the LNF can make 350 WHP safely with the stock engine internals, turbo and fuel system on gasoline - this is assuming the IATs are held under about 115 degrees (challenging in the desert). This is for an engine that will live a long and healthy life. The stock fuel injectors are good for 120lbs per hour flow at a about 80% duty cycle - higher than that and you risk the longevity of the injectors. Granted pushing the limits is not out of the question and RPM has many customers with more than 350 WHP on a stock motor and fuel system with a bigger turbo.
From that discussion and researching other engine builders/tuners, your updated turbo should allow the boost to be built without generating excessive heat that a stock turbo would create. But the concern IMO is with the fuel injector duty cycle to get the required flow at that higher boost level, which is something I would question of the tuning shop. Per RPM, the Opel injectors are good for 135lbs per hour and are highly recommended if tunng over 350WHP, regardless of turbo. Just don't want to see a hand grenade go off after putting all of the blood, sweat and $$ you put into your car.
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
Got the motor out last night and swapped the RMS with a new one. Everything was covered in oil and I saw no clear indicator of it being due to the RMS, but that's the only place it could have come from. The oil pan seal appeared to be well seated, too.
Hoping to put the engine back in this weekend.
Edit: My garage is an absolute disaster - don't judge me.
Hoping to put the engine back in this weekend.
Edit: My garage is an absolute disaster - don't judge me.
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KSLunsfo
Well-Known Member
Not to intentionally ask a possibly dumb question, but you're sure it's oil and not gear oil right?
Also, try to check that you're not pressurizing your crankcase somehow. That will almost always result in leaking seals. Not sure how much time you've spent in boost yet so this may be N/A.
Also, try to check that you're not pressurizing your crankcase somehow. That will almost always result in leaking seals. Not sure how much time you've spent in boost yet so this may be N/A.
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
I'm more certain of it being engine oil than gear oil, but I guess I'm not 100% either way. I know it's not DOT3. The RMS seal was not dry, further leading me to believe it's the RMS... if it were gear oil it'd have to travel from the input shaft all the way past the clutch/flywheel to that area which I find incredibly unlikely. I did notice it may not have been completely seated, so I made sure the new one was perfectly flush... I guess I overlooked this when I first changed it.
The most boost I've seen is just a few PSI here and there, I've yet to spend more than a second or two into it. I have a breather filter on the valve cover as well, although that isn't the same as a proper set up. I've only put maybe 40 miles total since finishing.
If it continues to happen I'll revisit this. I have only put a few miles on everything, and prior to my disassembly of the donor vehicle all I did was idle/rev it (I never drove it) so the condition of the transmission is an unknown variable.
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
Phoenix Friction Stage 3 six puck.
OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
For those looking, I also have this clutch and it's been all around great (even in a six puck!). Comes with a TOB, reasonably priced, shipped quick and works with the Opel ARP bolts.