KSLunsfo
Well-Known Member
Hopefully the RMS takes care of it, very well may if it wasn't seated before. I put a RMS in mine while it was down also, I had a harder time removing the old one than I expected. Believe I got the new one fully seated...
Mayor West's 09 SS/TC Ext. Track Turbo #191 [South Carolina] [Registered] [Sold]
- Thread starter Mayor West
- Start date
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
Because I hate myself and my money, I ordered a few tidbits from ZZP last night...
Stage 2 Cam, Opel Injectors, 82# Springs, ZZP Head Studs, Head Gasket. I'll be getting new TTY bolts for the cams/pulley as well.
My original plan to have the car dyno tuned on the 15th may be pushed back if the cam swap takes too much time - which I assume it will.
I don't wanna say 'Squatch convinced me to splurge, but it didn't help
Stage 2 Cam, Opel Injectors, 82# Springs, ZZP Head Studs, Head Gasket. I'll be getting new TTY bolts for the cams/pulley as well.
My original plan to have the car dyno tuned on the 15th may be pushed back if the cam swap takes too much time - which I assume it will.
I don't wanna say 'Squatch convinced me to splurge, but it didn't help
AZmoto
Well-Known Member
I ran around 425whp on my Solstice (50lb/hr on the MAF) using an EFR7163 at 29psi on straight E54 (what we get from the pump in AZ) and meth injection. I found that the weakest link in Solstice fuel system was the HPFP. At those power levels the rail pressure would start to dip a little. Stock injectors and LPFP did not have any problem. I did later upgrade to the Opel injectors but it made no difference. I ran ZZPs upgraded HPFP to eliminate the dip.
AZmoto
Well-Known Member
Same here. I noticed that a couple of parts that have been out of stock for a while were available again so I grabbed them: EFR7163 exhaust housing and the upgraded HPFP.
Rauq
Goblin Guru
Have you driven it hard enough as is to determine if you have more than enough traction? Because those parts will probably take care of that problem...Because I hate myself and my money, I ordered a few tidbits from ZZP last night...
Stage 2 Cam, Opel Injectors, 82# Springs, ZZP Head Studs, Head Gasket. I'll be getting new TTY bolts for the cams/pulley as well.
My original plan to have the car dyno tuned on the 15th may be pushed back if the cam swap takes too much time - which I assume it will.
I don't wanna say 'Squatch convinced me to splurge, but it didn't help
What kind of power do you think this recipe will put you at?
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
My original HP goal was/is 400ish, anything north of 375 would be fine with me. Regarding traction, I don't expect to ever have had it.
I have the zfr 6758 and I'm wanting to upgrade to the 7163. If I buy the zzp housing and an efr supercore what wastgate can are you getting, the medium or high pressure can.
AZmoto
Well-Known Member
High pressure.
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
Pulled the head, it only had 40ish miles on it since I refurbished it so I didn't expect it to be roughed up. Only thing left to do is pull the valve springs so I can swap em with the new ones, saving that for another day this weekend.
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Mayor West
Goblin Guru
So a bit of a belated update... A few weeks ago I finished up the Stage 2 cams and Opel injector install and put the engine back in. I hadn't gotten around to tying everything up until now, due to some nice weather coming in.
My battery is garbage and not holding a charge for more than a few days so I've ordered a new one. In the mean time, I put a friend's ZZP tune for stage 2 cams/opels/etc on as a baseline and cranked it up. I've at least confirmed that I put everything in correctly, there are no CELs and it ran perfectly after a few seconds of figuring itself out.
Although the car's totally "done" in the legal sense, I still need to do a few things.
My battery is garbage and not holding a charge for more than a few days so I've ordered a new one. In the mean time, I put a friend's ZZP tune for stage 2 cams/opels/etc on as a baseline and cranked it up. I've at least confirmed that I put everything in correctly, there are no CELs and it ran perfectly after a few seconds of figuring itself out.
Although the car's totally "done" in the legal sense, I still need to do a few things.
- Swap out my old 3D printed dash for my new one
- Rewire my buttons because the new dash is laid out a little different
- "Wrap" my driver-size panel with the rest of my shower curtain.
- Fully wire my dash camera/rearview mirror
- Swap out the lower o-ring seals on the brake fluid reservoir, because it leaks.
- Revise how my manual steering rack is held in place
- It's a lil wobbly
- Fix e-brake
- Ratcheting bracket fell out!?!
- Fully tune
- Proper Alignment
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
That happened with my LSJ donor's parking brake. Janky shiat
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
Yeah and I'm not 100% sure how to put it back in. I watched some YT videos and I'm not sure I really understand it. It looks like its pressed in?
What'd you do? I think the brakes the same general concept across the whole lineup.
What'd you do? I think the brakes the same general concept across the whole lineup.
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
Threw it out and used the one from my LNF donor. >.>;;
OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
Something you'll only see on the Goblin forums
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
Something I just realized was if I remove my e-brake assembly I'll have to remove my entire tunnel cap, which means I'll have to remove my seats to get to the holes as well as the majority of the shifter assembly.
Really wish I had welded those nut ends to make them captive... captive preset nuts would make this build a lot sexier in the general maintenance point of view... the shifter has them I think, the parking brake needs them too
Really wish I had welded those nut ends to make them captive... captive preset nuts would make this build a lot sexier in the general maintenance point of view... the shifter has them I think, the parking brake needs them too
OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
'tis quite the 3 steps backward before making progress effort. If you haven't cut your channel into multiple pieces already, doing so also makes life a little easier.
For inspo - you might have to shave your nuts to get it to line up with your hole
For inspo - you might have to shave your nuts to get it to line up with your hole
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
Already painted, otherwise I totally should have gone that route.
I suggest anyone who's unpainted (or doesn't mind painting again) to do this.
I'm considering taking mine off, cutting it, welding some captive nuts on, then having it repainted...
I suggest anyone who's unpainted (or doesn't mind painting again) to do this.
I'm considering taking mine off, cutting it, welding some captive nuts on, then having it repainted...
Rauq
Goblin Guru
Once you take the tunnel cap off, can you insert the bolt from the bottom side and cinch it down with a nut on the top side? Essentially replacing the spacer height with a nut and turning the bolt into a captive one. Might want to test it out before you install the tunnel cap to make sure that the top nut's torque doesn't spin the bolt or prevent it from being removed.
SmsDetroit
Goblin Guru
Where did you section it at to keep the strength?