Moog Tie-Rod

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Hey guys I have replaced the passenger tie rod which is a bit larger and longer. The length and size I am not concerned with because now their is more steering arm threaded in. My concern is I received (2) nuts one which is a bit larger size then the threads of the bolt but is required to install the castle nut and slide the cotter pin between the nut and torque to 55 ft pounds. Does this look right to you all? First time I have stacked nuts on a tie-rod due to the overall length of the joint bolt.

or did I receive the wrong part?
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baustin

Well-Known Member
I would expect the larger nut was intended to be the jam nut. You look like you're reusing the previous jam nut on the tie rod to one tie rod connection which is fine but that's why they include it. The cotter pin hole being too high for the castle nut is something I've heard mentioned here before and it's the reason that some tie rods come with nylock style nuts instead.

I think the way you have it setup should work fine though.
 
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Rauq

Goblin Guru
I would expect the larger nut was intended to be the jam nut. You look like you're reusing the previous jam nut on the tire rod to one tire rod connection which is fine but that's why they include it. The cotter pin hole being too high for the castle nut is something I've heard mentioned here before and it's the reason that some tie rods come with nylock style nuts instead.

I think the way you have it setup should work fine though.
For a photo illustration, because I didn't process this at first, your second new nut is probably intended to be the jam nut on the tie rod itself. Looks like you didn't replace that original jam nut.
33895
 

baustin

Well-Known Member
For a photo illustration, because I didn't process this at first, your second new nut is probably intended to be the jam nut on the tie rod itself. Looks like you didn't replace that original jam nut.
View attachment 33895
Thanks, I didn't have the chance to do a picture. This is exactly what I meant, even if I can't spell tie rod and typed tire rod...
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Thanks all for the input and a duh moment regarding the larger nut placement. I reused the nylon nut torque to 50 ft pound and added the castle nut to the top I think I’m good.
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Did you confirm while swapping nuts that the nut wasn't bottoming out on threads, i.e. the taper is bottoming out with threads left below the bottom of the nut?
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Are you sure that's the right tie rod end? From my memory, the rear has Cobalt tie rod ends installed, while the front gets a non-Cobalt tie rod end which is shorter.
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Are you sure that's the right tie rod end? From my memory, the rear has Cobalt tie rod ends installed, while the front gets a non-Cobalt tie rod end which is shorter.
This is a valid point. And your right I should have ordered this part from DF honestly did not cross my mind they would have tie-rod in the store.
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
If the taper is is the same and it's not bottoming on the nut it should be ok. If it pulls up into the hole a little more because the base diameters are a little smaller it might have a slight impact on bump steer.

Are the new and old the same except for the male threaded length?
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
If the taper is is the same and it's not bottoming on the nut it should be ok. If it pulls up into the hole a little more because the base diameters are a little smaller it might have a slight impact on bump steer.

Are the new and old the same except for the male threaded length?
Length is longer on the moog and overall size but the taper is the same with longer threads.
 
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