Lndshrk Steve
Well-Known Member
Following. I'm still back at the "no fuel pump" "no starter" with "no security light". Got a new key to work with the 30 minute program. Now starting to track WHY the other stuff isn't working.
No Start
- Thread starter chief404
- Start date
I would check all your fuse block connections and the wires connecting to the starter. I know you may have checked them already, but give them a hard look. Do you have any trouble codes?
Lndshrk Steve
Well-Known Member
Yes, I did check the connections and reset the fuse block. I'm getting a code reader this weekend and in the mean time, I'm going back and recleaning ALL the grounds (even though I ran a jumper cable from the battery to rear ground stud). Thanks for the suggestions. I'll take all the help I can get.
I was able to trace back the fuel pump ground which looks good and reseated the fuse block. It's basically running the same but I was able to get more codes. This explains why it doesn't run super well, just unsure if all these circuits are related or if it's something to do with the fuse block. I was also able to pull codes again and basically got all the codes for an open injector ciruit.
Rauq
Goblin Guru
Does it sound like it's running on half the cylinders? That's probably Reduced Engine Power, which can be caused by the P0033. Assuming the boost control solenoid is actually plugged in, you're either looking at a wiring issue (cut wire or unseated connector) or a bad solenoid.
For P0102, is your MAF installed in the correct direction and plugged in? If so, similar situation to the above- check for a wiring issue or bad MAF.
I'd be more inclined to think you had a bad injector if it were one of them or all of them. Perhaps #1 is on its way out as well, but seeing 3/4 throw codes would point me towards a wiring issue before 3 bad injectors.
I believe the P0033 and the P0102 can keep the car from idling well and need to be addressed before you can get more useful information on the injectors, assuming they're not all wiring issues.
For P0102, is your MAF installed in the correct direction and plugged in? If so, similar situation to the above- check for a wiring issue or bad MAF.
I'd be more inclined to think you had a bad injector if it were one of them or all of them. Perhaps #1 is on its way out as well, but seeing 3/4 throw codes would point me towards a wiring issue before 3 bad injectors.
I believe the P0033 and the P0102 can keep the car from idling well and need to be addressed before you can get more useful information on the injectors, assuming they're not all wiring issues.
So I went through all the wires and checking everything, here is what I found:
1. The PURPLE injector and maf harness got swapped - which was the cause of the injector/maf codes...
2. The starter to fuse block power wire was not connected properly somehow, when I replaced the starter it did not get put back on with the nut...very silly mistake, I literally just pulled it out from the bottom of the car, not sure how it even ran at all in the first place
3. A bunch of rough looking fuses - so I just replaced all of them in both locations.
Still going to do a bit of testing to make sure it doesn't have any other issues or codes. most of the codes I did get did not always show up when using vcm scanner. I am still getting the p0033 and p0230 codes intermittently, even after replacing the solenoid.
1. The PURPLE injector and maf harness got swapped - which was the cause of the injector/maf codes...
2. The starter to fuse block power wire was not connected properly somehow, when I replaced the starter it did not get put back on with the nut...very silly mistake, I literally just pulled it out from the bottom of the car, not sure how it even ran at all in the first place
3. A bunch of rough looking fuses - so I just replaced all of them in both locations.
Still going to do a bit of testing to make sure it doesn't have any other issues or codes. most of the codes I did get did not always show up when using vcm scanner. I am still getting the p0033 and p0230 codes intermittently, even after replacing the solenoid.
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I also did go back and clean most of these connections up. They looked pretty rough.
For the solenoid, it looks like it just has two wires: a red and grey with the red going to the boost gauge and the grey going to the ECM. Going to check those and see what I find. I know I have the tan wire for the boost gauge but not sure about the pink wire. Would not having the gauge hooked up cause this issue or would it most likely be the gray wire as the cuprite?
For the solenoid, it looks like it just has two wires: a red and grey with the red going to the boost gauge and the grey going to the ECM. Going to check those and see what I find. I know I have the tan wire for the boost gauge but not sure about the pink wire. Would not having the gauge hooked up cause this issue or would it most likely be the gray wire as the cuprite?
I would be surprised if either of the wires from the boost control solenoid are directly tied to the boost gauge, but I guess it isn't impossible. It looks like the boost gage is receiving data from the ECM (that it should get from the MAP sensor) that it then interprets for pressure. The solenoid should be a control voltage and ground to make it operate.
Rauq
Goblin Guru
I think it'll run fine without the gauge, it's not like the SS/TC RPD where the car literally won't run without the RPD plugged in. The solenoid wiring is completely separate from the boost gauge.
I believe you can actuate the solenoid by putting 12v to it to test.
Bad grounds may be causing the P0230.
I believe you can actuate the solenoid by putting 12v to it to test.
Bad grounds may be causing the P0230.
It's hard to tell from looking at partial wiring diagrams but it looks like you should have 12v on the pink wire at the boost solenoid with the ignition on and that fuse feeds a lot of things so you wouldn't get much if there is a problem at that fuse. If you have 12v on the pink at the solenoid you need to be checking the grey wire. It probably grounds the relay through the ECM to control the opening/closing of the boost solenoid.
Rauq
Goblin Guru
I concur you should see 12v positive at the pink wire with the ignition on. Alldata says solenoid is normally open, but spends most of its time at 100% duty cycle / closed. So you should be able to blow through it with no power put to it, but not when you put 12v to it. The PCM is grounding out the solenoid with 0-100% duty cycle to achieve the required boost control.
Finally got another chance to work on the goblin. Unfortunately, the pink wire at the solenoid is not getting 12v with ignition on.... The pink wire from the fuse block(C1, E6) to the solenoid looks good. The IGN1 fuse is also in a good state. The p0230 code was solved by replacing the relay.
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Yeah I had to order some different probes because I didn't want to damage the fuse slot with the one I have. I'll try it out.