PHerder's Track Frame with lower entry bars

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PHerder

Well-Known Member
TheNuker said:
[snipped][/snipped]

Also, If it makes you feel better I had the engine totally in and close to starting when I remembered to put the clutch line in. Boy that was fun.

Nuker-
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LOL!

That sounds like my first day as a part time John Deere mechanic (1974) working on a brand new lawn tractor. The compression release on the crankshaft was adjusted too far (i.e. broke off) and I was given a BFN crankshaft, pointed to the new lawn tractor and then pointed to the factory service manuals and told, go for it. My motorcycle drag race friend was the service manager...

No problem EXCEPT for reassembly and putting on the muffler before I needed to. I ended up putting it on, taking if off, assembling some more pieces on the motor, putting the muffler back on, finding more that had to go on the motor before the muffler, taking the muffler back off, etc.

Somehow I needed to have that muffler ON THAT TRACTOR!!! :confused: Even though I had the muffler on and off three times before it stayed on, I was only 30 longer than flat rate for that engine teardown and rebuild. :rolleyes:

I try to follow instructions better after that. o_O And that is why I didn't think of the clutch line since it wasn't mentioned in the AUTO Goblin build.

I did go back out to the shop and install the line after my above post. First thought was, which way does it need to go? I believe I have it in the frame correctly since the other way has bends that doesn't come close to the slave cylinder location.
 
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PHerder

Well-Known Member
Well, another set back. :mad:

Collecting all the parts needed to complete video #17 and found two things I do not have (or have misplaced) :oops:

Update: Painted it and put it aside. Found it with the other Stage 1 parts that I painted. D'oh!

The real important one is the power steering bracket. I believe I may have left it behind on the donor and thus it is gone.

Anyone with an extra donor that can spare that bracket?​

One step forward, many steps back. :rolleyes:

The other piece missing is the trim pieces that are used to keep the brake and clutch lines from rubbing on the frame. That I suppose I can get locally.
 
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
I thought the power steering mount bracket came with the kit. If it doesn't, then I don't have one either.

Edit. According to the kit contents PDFs that Adam posted, the EPS bracket should have came in the stage 1 kit.
 
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PHerder

Well-Known Member
Briann1177 said:
I thought the power steering mount bracket came with the kit. If it doesn't, then I don't have one either.

Edit. According to the kit contents PDFs that Adam posted, the EPS bracket should have came in the stage 1 kit.
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Yup! It came with the kit. I had painted it and put it aside with the other parts that I painted. D'oh!
 
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PHerder

Well-Known Member
Tony said:
I bought the similar, but much smaller, package at AZ, and it works fine: https://goo.gl/XKBXJ6
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Thanks, Tony! Went by AZ and picked up one. Beats getting 18 feet of it when you only need < 6" :D

AZ tried to sell me two packages seeing that I showed up in a Honda Insight 4 door. ;) He didn't understand what I was going to use it for but it could have been a language problem (I don't speak Spanish...) :confused:
 
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PHerder

Well-Known Member
I believe that I have finished the steps in Video #17. Yea! Okay, not finished yet. I have to secure the hydraulic lines to the frame and then I am done with #17.

The master cylinder reservoir is still on the master cylinder until I am ready to plumb the remote reservoir to keep dirt/dust out of it. This version has two roll pins holding the reservoir on so it will be easy to remove later (famous last words... :oops:.)

IMG_20171122_094417.jpg


Now if I could only get the tie rod ends off the steering rack... :( Someone in the past didn't want them to come off... ever! I strained my back attempting to remove the passenger side (you can see I have it up on a jack stand for leverage). They are both soaking in penetrating oil for me to try again later.

Before I get too far in the build, where does the clutch line need to end up in the tunnel? Over or under the brake lines? and if under, left or right side of the "T"?

IMG_20171122_101106.jpg
 
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PHerder

Well-Known Member
Just got an email from Turbo Tim from ZZP. I had taken advance of the 1/2 price cost of flashing the PCM and had sent in my PCM that was with the Ariel Atom's LSJ SC engine.

Tim emailed me today to ask what I wanted to do since the programming was locked on the PCM from Ariel! :mad:

All I really wanted was my donor's VIN added to the PCM for Kansas state inspection and for ZZP to check out the programming to see if it really was their Stage 2 programming.

Tim stated that he could flash the PCM but it would wipe whatever was on there. I told him to go ahead since I didn't know what Ariel had done to the programming and since I wasn't going to be using the Atom's wiring harness and dash which removes the BCM and uses other electronics for keyless operation.

I am guessing that since I am using "stock" Cobalt wiring and electronics, it was probably better to start anew than to try to make the PCM work nice with the Cobalt stuff.

At least I found this out now instead of later and had to pay full price to have the PCM flashed. :confused:
 
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PHerder

Well-Known Member
More bad news. :mad:

The Atom PCM is SO locked down that it can't be flashed unless it is unlocked. :confused:

Now I am sending in my donor's PCM to have it flashed and hopefully the CASE learn code will not be set. IAW Turbo Tim, it isn't a problem running the engine, just a CEL being set. I will have to have a local dealer do the CASE learn to remove it.

One set forward, two steps back!

:eek:
 
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PHerder

Well-Known Member
Next question. I am putting together the front suspension and am confused on parts used.

The video shows the Rod End Mounts as custom aluminum pieces.

RodEndMounts.jpg


I didn't find any in my Stage 2 parts.

What I do have, I don't know where they are used. Are these the replacements for the Rod End Mounts?

IMG_20171201_153756.jpg


If not, what are they used for?

Thanks!
 
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PHerder

Well-Known Member
Well I decided to loosely assemble those steel brackets where I expected they would go on the uprights.

IMG_20171201_185801.jpg


The red arrow points to the top one with the bottom one reversed. Everything fits so I guess they are the replacements for the machine aluminium pieces.

Nothing is tighten on the uprights just in case.

Anyone else have these steel pieces?
 
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PHerder

Well-Known Member
ctuinstra said:
I'll bet they are the new camber adjustment I've heard about. It helps with the front to not be so loose?
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That has me thinking I need to check where the large hole is located on the steel pieces. They may be offset to help with the camber and I didn't look when I pulled the zip tie off of the bundle.

Update: checked the four steel brackets and they are close enough that it doesn't matter where they end up.
 
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
Are those just used for additional camber adjustments? It was previously adjusted with the top/bottom heim bolts, right?
 
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PHerder

Well-Known Member
Briann1177 said:
Are those just used for additional camber adjustments? It was previously adjusted with the top/bottom heim bolts, right?
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I guess they could easily be! I received a BUNCH of washers that could be stacked to provide camber adjustment. I wondered why I receive so many and now I know!

The top/bottom heim bolts are still there and adjustable, the brackets with stacked washers would just add to the adjustments.

I think. :confused:
 
Adam

Adam

Administrator
Staff member
PHerder said:
Well I decided to loosely assemble those steel brackets where I expected they would go on the uprights.

View attachment 2347

The red arrow points to the top one with the bottom one reversed. Everything fits so I guess they are the replacements for the machine aluminium pieces.

Nothing is tighten on the uprights just in case.

Anyone else have these steel pieces?
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Sorry for the delay. Those are the new rod end mounts. The top one is correct but the bottom one needs to be on the other side.

new rod end mounts.jpg


PHerder said:
I guess they could easily be! I received a BUNCH of washers that could be stacked to provide camber adjustment.

I think. :confused:
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You should have 24 flat washers (3/8 SAE) for the front uprights. 16 of them are for the rod end mounts and 8 are for the steering arms.
 
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PHerder

Well-Known Member
Actually I have 44 flat washers (3/8 SAE) in the upright package of bolts, washers and nyloc nuts of which I used 22 for the front uprights. The two shorter bolts for the steering arms are too short to use two washers on the bolt and have the nut secured by the nylon insert. I will probably source a slightly longer bolt so that I can use both washers.

I am guessing that the steering arm ends up at an upward angle to meet up with the steering rack's rod ends, correct?

IMG_20171204_091609.jpg


I will have to do a bunch of adjustment to get the camber and toe correct but that cannot be set until the car is on its wheels. Right now I have a BUNCH of negative camber and a BUNCH of toe out. :eek:
 
George

George

Goblin Guru
With that style of upper and lower upright adjustment you can add more steering angle of inclination. which you can use to make the steering return to center more effectively
 
BAR-AIR

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Good Evening Paul,
First I have seen or heard about a new rod end mounts. Anyone know if we are supposed to retro all the kits with them?
THX
 
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