Possibly a good donor car ?

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
If it was a hit and run, he was probably the runner. :D

2.4L not the 2.0L supercharged, if that matters to you. not sure if auto or manual, or lsd trans.

there is a learn procedure that’s time consuming, but can be done without special tools. It can also be turned off via HP tuners.

For the asking price, I’d seriously consider it, Anything less, is bonus. Hell, you can part it out for more than that if need be.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Wow, that is cheap for an SS. You can't go too far wrong, even if you have to buy suspension parts.
A bit of a gamble, but for $300, probably worth it.... Wait! It is missing the title. That probably would be an issue... depending on your registration process in Washington.

2.4L engine. VIN lookup:
 
Last edited:

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I have some thoughts here. I might come across as negative here, but I promise I do not mean it that way, and I have only your best interests at heart. That being said...

$300 for this car is a steal. Hell, even double that would be a good deal, assuming the engine is not ruined. If you're concerned about paying $300 for a donor, I would advise reviewing your finances and reconsider where you're at with this. There's nothing wrong with being budget-minded, but if you're planning to build an absolute bare-bones, bare-naked Goblin, your kit is going to cost you about $8k alone. It goes up from there to add options. There's also going to be "unexpected" costs, in that you're probably going to be replacing donor parts with new, and acquiring tools you need but don't currently own. I did not do a budget build, but I minimized costs everywhere I possibly could while still getting every option that I wanted, and I am about $18k deep in my Goblin.

With the money thoughts out of the way, there's also risks with non-running donors. My first donor car was a non-running LSJ that I picked up at a good price of $1k, with the dealer I bought it from telling me he had bought it as a project car (his shop is a "speed shop"), but had never gotten to it, so he wanted rid of it, and that it only needed the basics to get running, things like new vacuum lines, new oil/gas, new battery, new plugs and coils, etc. In the end, it turned out that the timing chain had jumped in the engine, damaging the head, rockers, timing chain guides/bolts, and probably more. I was able to recoup everything I spent on that car by parting it out, but I wasted ~4 months and a lot of "wife stock" on that donor. See thread: https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/arks-city-goblin-2007-2-0l-lsj-donor-aborted-mission.1122/

For the theft light, there's a 30-minute relearn procedure that should get you past it: https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/programming-keys.266/ BUT, you have to be prepared for it to not work. It's very possible that the car could have electrical problems as well.

Buying a car with no title is always going to be a risk. If it ends up being a flood car, the electrical is possibly ruined. Others have indicated that you don't need the title to register a Goblin in WA, which is good, but you may have trouble getting rid of the shell. It might come down to cutting the shell in half with a sawzall to dispose of it as "hunks of metal" rather than a car shell.

So again, not trying to be negative or to steer you away from building your Goblin! Just offering up thoughts from the darker side of things.
 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
Your other prospect was $500? And it runs?
If so, I'd take the running vehicle for $200 more. It's a known fact it runs.
The other car could end up like Ark's.
 
Top