Prothane Bushings - Control Arms

[Adam in CLE]

Hi All! I removed the stock bushings on the front and rear of the control arm. I purchased the Prothane brand bushing and have the front bushings in with no issues. For the rears, I burned out all the old rubber and have tried to press in the new ones 3 times, breaking 1 bushing thus far. Fortunately, Prothane has been awesome and sent me a replacement. I have done the freeze the bushings and heat the arms, lubed up all parts way more than they should need and the bushing keeps mushrooming over the hole vs in. I have access to a shop press and bench vise and tried both. I would appreciate any tips from those who have used this bushing on how they got it to fit.

Thanks in advance!

Adam

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Photo of what you are trying to do. Something is not correct.

 

[Ross]

I haven't installed Prothane bushings... but I did search the internet... found 2 sources.

1. This guy wrote this article on installing Prothane bushings. I copied the install step:

Press the new bushings in using the ball-joint press. (Borrow it from an auto supply store). The Prothane kit comes with a "special grease" - yea whatever., use it.. Use ALL of it. The grease helps let the bushings slide into place, as well as keep them lubed. Poly bushings are much harder then the rubber units they replace. They can and will make some noise in the cold, so don't freak out if you hear a few grunts and groans when it gets colder out. The grease is silicone dielectric grease. Use extra if you have to. Just wipe off the excess, dirt, rust, and grime will tear apart the new bushings, so try to keep the work area clean, and clean up the areas where the bushings are going to get pressed into.

2. AI says:
- Clean any dirt or corrosion from the control arm bore.
- Using a rounded file, remove any sharp edges from around the bore of the arm, creating a chamfer to prevent damage to the new bushing when pressing it in.
- Apply soap liquid to the outside of the new polyurethane bushing and the bore of the arm to ease fitting. Press the bushing into the arm at an angle so that one part of the lip is already in the bore, allowing the rest of the lip to follow as you push it in.
- Ensure the lip has fully popped out on the other side of the arm.

 

[Adam in CLE]

 

[Adam in CLE]

Thanks for those who have replied. See picture above. I am looking for advice from folks who have installed this specific bushing.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

I'm assuming the bushing is 'mushrooming' around the socket when pressing? The pressure on the bushing needs to be almost the width of the bushing (not the lip), but also even across the rest of the material on the face. As @Ross stated, a bushing install kit offers more options and the adapters can be stacked together to get the more even pressure.

But poly bushings are just a PITA to install, no matter the application.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Since the top of the bushing is open a trick that may help is to 'bind' the bushing using heavy string or a tie wrap or a hose clamp at the top - something that will keep the lip from trying to spread open - to help force it inward to slip through the opening in the control arm. BTW, 'chamfering' the edge of opening in the control arm to make it as smooth as possible may help too - emery cloth or even a scotch-brite pad may get it smoothed out.

 

[Adam in CLE]

Thanks Desert. I have rounded over the edge on the metal piece and the bushing already has a chamfer on it. I also tried the hose clamp and it slides off with all the lube that are on them. This can't be this much of a pain. I will try a few more times. Anyone have an opinion of cutting the bushing in half? The other bushing is already that way but is much longer do less deflection I would assume.

 

[Rttoys]

For the rears, I burned out all the old rubber and have tried to press in the new ones 3 times, breaking 1 bushing thus far.

Adam

burned out the old one? It has a metal ring around it. Did you press out that ring? You might be resisting against it with the new bushing. Let me look for a pic

 

[Rttoys]

.

 

[Adam in CLE]

No, the metal ring is shown in my pic above.

 

[Rttoys]

I see it now. It’s gotta go.unless Prothan says otherwise, which would be weird.

 

[Rttoys]

Most use Moog k201285 or ottp 19002 solid heim bushings

 

[Adam in CLE]

It has to stay per Prothane. If you take them out, there is too much play.

 

[Ross]

Have you measured the Prothane bushing (green arrow) and the inner diameter of the burned out bushing (yellow arrow)?
Is there suppose to be any squishing of the Prothane bushing?
I wonder why Prothane didn't chamfer the leading edge of their bushing (see blue line), as that whole edge is suppose to squish down thru the yellow arrows, then pop back into shape on the other side. Maybe modify the leading edge of the Prothane bushing?

 

[Rttoys]

Man, that thing really has to squish down.