Robinjo #405 Full Cage - 2006 SS/SC Build "Drago"
- Thread starter Robinjo
- Start date
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
Edit: better schematic is found here
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Robinjo
Goblin Guru
4/17/2023
Tackled the P2138 issue that I've been chasing, others have had a similar issue and we may have found a resolution to the problem. I know this starts in 2021 but on page 1 at post #6 we start talking about it again in 2023. Chubbs, Joebob and myself all had the same code. Replacing the cable from the APP (Gas/Accelerator Pedal) to the blue C1 connector on the ECM seems to be the fix. I HIGHLY recommend replacing these wires at a minimum on all new LSJ builds and would strongly consider just doing the sheathed cable just as an extra measure. It would have been super duper easy with the harness on the table.
The last time the error came on Sunday AM, I did track it more to the wiring. I wiggled the wires under the dash connecting to the APP and the issue immediately stopped. It could have been coincidence, but the timing is very suspect.
Link to P2138 Discussion
dfkitcar.com
Next up for me is finally connecting my Wideband to the A/C pressure switch and then adding it into HPTuners. I was thinking previously that the connection had to go all the way to the gauge, but does it? Can't I just grab the wire from the AFR/Wideband harness in the engine bay?
Things to Do:
Tackled the P2138 issue that I've been chasing, others have had a similar issue and we may have found a resolution to the problem. I know this starts in 2021 but on page 1 at post #6 we start talking about it again in 2023. Chubbs, Joebob and myself all had the same code. Replacing the cable from the APP (Gas/Accelerator Pedal) to the blue C1 connector on the ECM seems to be the fix. I HIGHLY recommend replacing these wires at a minimum on all new LSJ builds and would strongly consider just doing the sheathed cable just as an extra measure. It would have been super duper easy with the harness on the table.
The last time the error came on Sunday AM, I did track it more to the wiring. I wiggled the wires under the dash connecting to the APP and the issue immediately stopped. It could have been coincidence, but the timing is very suspect.
Link to P2138 Discussion
P2138 code and intermittent limp mode!
Hey guys my goblin has the 2008 LNF ss doner. recently when I have been driving around, my goblin has been intermittently going into limp mode. It can be a 2 min drive or a 15 min drive when it kicks in. I turn on the car and turn it back on, then it’s fine again for another 2min-15min. It’s...
Next up for me is finally connecting my Wideband to the A/C pressure switch and then adding it into HPTuners. I was thinking previously that the connection had to go all the way to the gauge, but does it? Can't I just grab the wire from the AFR/Wideband harness in the engine bay?
Things to Do:
Random P2138 Code- Think this is wiring related as of 4/16/2023, potentially fixed 4/17- Learn to Tune w/ HP Tuner - Installed and downloaded base file
- Connect the Wideband to HP Tuner
- MIL Light on with no codes (stored or pending)
Oil Pan- Make shifter brace
- Download IAT2 PID (222006) to Torque Pro app
- Lower cooling fan switch on temp
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Ross
Goblin Guru
If your wideband O2 sensor is a 0-5V sensor, then it can be wired straight to the AC pressure sensor. Most wideband O2 sensors also have a high amperage heater, so that will probaby need to be wired thru it's original fuse and wires.
If you wire the wideband O2 sensor to the AC pressure sensor, then the ECU will measure the voltage, and report it on the PID number that is assigned to the AC pressure. Any device plugged into the GM high speed LAN will be request that PID and get a voltage found at that sensor.
If you wire the wideband O2 sensor to the AC pressure sensor, then the ECU will measure the voltage, and report it on the PID number that is assigned to the AC pressure. Any device plugged into the GM high speed LAN will be request that PID and get a voltage found at that sensor.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
4/25/2023
P2138 error code has not come back since re-soldering the connections. It has been a few days and many short and a couple more than 20 minute drives. One thing I have noticed, I lost the cruise control function. I'm going to dig into that more, but I think either a wire or sensor has let me down. One issue down, two more pop up.
Finally figured out how to get the Intake Air Temperature 2 (IAT2) function to work on the Torque App. It doesn't work on the free version, just FYI. One thing to note, you need to leave the units in C and then the app converts it over, if you selected this in the settings. I'm not sure what a normal or ok IAT2 temperature is supposed to be. The highest I saw was 120 degrees F, that was sitting in traffic in 70 degrees F ambient temperatures. As soon as I started moving it dropped back down. The difference between IAT1 and IAT was 20-30 degrees F. Definitely going to look into this more.
Torque App IAT2 Steps
Things to Do:
P2138 error code has not come back since re-soldering the connections. It has been a few days and many short and a couple more than 20 minute drives. One thing I have noticed, I lost the cruise control function. I'm going to dig into that more, but I think either a wire or sensor has let me down. One issue down, two more pop up.
Finally figured out how to get the Intake Air Temperature 2 (IAT2) function to work on the Torque App. It doesn't work on the free version, just FYI. One thing to note, you need to leave the units in C and then the app converts it over, if you selected this in the settings. I'm not sure what a normal or ok IAT2 temperature is supposed to be. The highest I saw was 120 degrees F, that was sitting in traffic in 70 degrees F ambient temperatures. As soon as I started moving it dropped back down. The difference between IAT1 and IAT was 20-30 degrees F. Definitely going to look into this more.
Torque App IAT2 Steps
Things to Do:
- Learn to Tune w/ HP Tuner - Installed and downloaded base file
- Connect the Wideband to HP Tuner
- MIL Light on with no codes (stored or pending)
- Make shifter brace
Download IAT2 PID (222006) to Torque Pro appLower cooling fan switch on temp- Fix Splitter Support
- Lost Cruise Control
RCK605
Well-Known Member
If the highest you saw was 120 while sitting in traffic, then you shouldn't have anything to worry about. 20-30 above IAT1 (ambient) is normal for regular driving as well. You might get a little lower with better heat exchangers, but the laminova core design isn't the best for an intercooler and likely will be the limiting factor.
On a hot day with spirited driving and long pulls you might see them creep up a little higher, but as long as they recover fairly quickly while cruising it shouldn't be a concern.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
Is there a number I should be concerned with?
RCK605
Well-Known Member
I think I saw 130-150 IAT2 and 160-170 CHT on my mustang after installing a whipple when I was stuck in traffic with 95ish ambient temp. I was getting nervous, but every time I move a little bit temps dropped. Everything turned out fine from that. I would say if you are hitting temps like that on a regular basis it would be of concern and likely something isn't working correctly in your coolant circuit.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
4/29/2023
Played with the cruise control (CC) a bit a found a suspect sensor. This one did not lose continuity when pressing in the sensor button. The new one I had around does. The two sensors on the brake pedal seem to be working. The sensor on the LSJ setup on the top of the clutch (seen below), what is it’s function? P/N: 22734989
Edit: looks like this switch does do stuff with the CC and is a common culprit when Cobalt forum members had issues w/CC. Swapped it out and plan to test in a bit.
Played with the cruise control (CC) a bit a found a suspect sensor. This one did not lose continuity when pressing in the sensor button. The new one I had around does. The two sensors on the brake pedal seem to be working. The sensor on the LSJ setup on the top of the clutch (seen below), what is it’s function? P/N: 22734989
Edit: looks like this switch does do stuff with the CC and is a common culprit when Cobalt forum members had issues w/CC. Swapped it out and plan to test in a bit.
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Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Both the brake switch and clutch switch feed the CC logic to deactivate it when either pedal is pushed.
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
Aside from testing continuity, wouldn't you also be able to test it by starting the car without pressing the clutch pedal?
A bad clutch sensor would have to be seen as open (clutch pedal pressed and not engaging the switch) by the PCM or else it wouldn't start and this would also cause the CC to think it was pressed even when it wasn't.
A bad clutch sensor would have to be seen as open (clutch pedal pressed and not engaging the switch) by the PCM or else it wouldn't start and this would also cause the CC to think it was pressed even when it wasn't.
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
IAT gets tricky. While driving normal, IAT1 should be near ambient temps. Sitting still IAT1 will climb with all that hot stagnant air comes in. Under boost, IAT will climb quickly, but should recover once you let off. Something like track or autocross, IAT2 going to climb quickly and take a while to recover (with stock intercooler).
With the splitter on the front, you are restricting some of the ic cooling efficiency, but on the street, this still shouldn't be a problem. At least it hasn’t been for me, but I rarely goose it on the steet. On that note, make sure you change you ic fan from a puller to a pusher, if you have the cutout in the splitter. This will help. And as ross said, the ecotec will protect itself when the temps climb too high.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
I do have all 3 switches. I replaced the top on one the clutch as I had that sensor already. The not pictured clutch switch is working, the car will not start without pressing it in.
The Top brake sensor with the grey plug and a missing plug port, I assumed was working as when I press it my lights come one The smaller bottom brake sensor, I may just change to be complete. It seemed to work though. It gave continuity when not pressed and lost continuity when the button was pressed in. Is this right?
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
I do have the cutout in my splitter to allow the IC to get air. What needs to happen to make the fan a Pusher type? Is it as easy as swapping the wires or just flipping the fan over?
In my mind, the puller was pulling cool air (ambient temp.) from under the car. Wouldn't a pusher be pulling hot, stanky air (about 160-180 F) that is trapped behind the radiator through the IC? This is more for discussion, I'd like to hear the reasons as I'm sure there are.
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
I’d have to look it up, but it sounds right from what I remember. I had a problem with my cruise and it came down to the buttons Df provided to go around the instrument cluster. As you know with the accelerator issue, there’s always the possibility of a wiring issue.
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
it’s a double edged sword we have tossed around for a while. A puller fan should work the best (I recommend a stronger fan though), but some have referenced a lot of cabin heat and such. I switched my ic fan to a pusher to get all hot air out from under the hood. Like a solid flow of air in, through, down and out. Kind of how the naca ducts work.
When I added the splitter, I used a hood scoop in the rearward position to still push air down and out. This is counterproductive when you are trying to get air away from the bottom of the car. I never did experiment with turning that hood scoop forward and use a puller fan again to see if that helped more. Hhhmmm Anyways, the results to me are; there’s a whole lot going on up front And trying to do multiple things in a small tight package. Gotta give and take somewhere. My end results have been on all configurations of the fan; on the street, everything has been fine. On the track/autocross, I need more inter cooling.
to answer your fan question:
Some fans you can change polarity to reverse direction. Some you flip the fan blade and some only allow one way. The Df fans I believe are one way only. My Spal fans are one direction only and I have about 10 of them laying around to test different configurations. My personal next step is to add another intercooler, because Summer is around the corner. It’s already 90 here.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
Tugged the Goblin on it’s first towing adventure, about 250 miles to south Alabama region. Pro tip: bring cleaning solutions with you as the vehicle gets filthy behind another car. Other than that it did fine, I could really feel the Goblin behind my CX-50 turbo. Something bigger might not.
