Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

Ross

Goblin Guru
Took me less than 3 hours to divide Mad Max in half, with Alice helping me for the last hour.
44646

I left the brake calipers with the car half, and the intercooler with the engine half, so those systems are still sealed.
Drained the coolant. Disconnected the clutch hydraulic slave. The oil is still in it, but that will be coming out soon.

44645


My second LSJ is going to get some basic maintenance, then be put into Mad Max. Time to test and learn if it is a good donor motor.
 

mike_sno

Goblin Guru
What is that for a drive shaft assembly?

And another question what did you do to the shifter assembly? Seems like some custom made plates?
 

Sebnuts

Well-Known Member
Sorry if you already mentioned it in a previous post, but why the motor swap, something happen with the original engine?
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I plan to build a performance engine, but still have a running goblin. So long as the second engine is healthy, I am going to put the current engine on a stand, and start the engine build. Might take me a while, as I don't have all the parts, and I will need to research as I go.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I would like it to be a track/street car with manners, with a normal idle, and a normal clutch, so not too crazy. Most builders seem to like the high 300hp range, maybe low 400hp, so that seems like a reasonable goal.
I have been collecting parts for about 3 years... I plan to keep the supercharger, and do twin charging, like Rauq did.
The turbo I have is pretty big, so the supercharger should help it to get spinning.
ZZP Z57 Turbo (Knock off of the Borg Warner 7163 EFR turbo)
Frozenboost Water to Air Intercooler
870 CC Split Spray injectors (Bosch EV-14ES)
ZZP forged pistons and connecting rods
ZZP ecotec head studs
ZZP Stage 2 Camshafts
Supertech Valve Springs - 75#
Davies Craig Water Pump w/ LCD Controller (removing the stock water pump, balance shafts, and their chain & sprockets.)
and a bunch of maintenance items... valves, valve guides, seals, cam chain & guides, etc.
 
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Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I would like it to be a track/street car with manners, with a normal idle, and a normal clutch, so not too crazy. Most builders seem to like the high 300hp range, maybe low 400hp, so that seems like a reasonable goal.
I have been collecting parts for about 3 years... I plan to keep the supercharger, and do twin charging, like Rauq did.
The turbo I have is pretty big, so the supercharger should help it to get spinning.
ZZP Z57 Turbo (Knock off of the Borg Warner 7163 EFR turbo)
Frozenboost Water to Air Intercooler
870 CC Split Spray injectors (Bosch EV-14ES)
ZZP forged pistons and connecting rods
ZZP Stage 2 Camshafts
Supertech Valve Springs - 75#
Davies Craig Water Pump w/ LCD Controller (removing the stock water pump, balance shafts, and their chain & sprockets.)
and a bunch of maintenance items... valves, valve guides, seals, cam chain & guides, etc.
Just don't forget to tighten up the bolts.
 

mike_sno

Goblin Guru
Took me less than 3 hours to divide Mad Max in half, with Alice helping me for the last hour.
3h is really good. I counted for 8h for in and out. I dont see a hoist in the pictures, how did you get the frame over the powertrain?
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
3h is really good. I counted for 8h for in and out. I don't see a hoist in the pictures, how did you get the frame over the powertrain?
You lay the engine on a dolly and then jack the body back up. Then you can turn the engine longways to roll out the back of the frame. I pull the subframe off right before dropping the engine but it looks like @Ross does it all as one. I do leave the suspension bits still attached to the frame though. After the 3rd or 4th time doing it, you get really good at it. I think I was right at (or under) 3 hours to pull the engine last time. It's not difficult, especially after I made myself a pulling checklist with wrench sizes and torque values for reassembly. Putting it back in is more like 4 or so. I fight a lot with the solid mounts going back in and go slower to make sure I hook everything up right. Also, fluid comes out a lot faster than it goes back in.

Just curious, why not keep the current engine going and rebuild the second one?
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I debated building the 2nd LSJ engine. I just don't know it, so I don't trust it. I started it 3 years ago when I bought the 2nd donor (silver Cobalt), and haven't started it since. It has a cracked oil pan from the accident, so it drips oil out. It probably has other issues, but I want to learn and fix them before adding a bunch of aftermarket parts. I trust my current engine from the blue Cobalt, and need to learn/gain trust with the 2nd LSJ engine.

I have a 2500lb electric winch in the middle of my shop, so I do all my lifting there. Including goblin frames, or the whole goblin, if I want. This is my 3rd time pulling the engine. It is the first time leaving the brake hydraulics sealed, and the intercooler sealed... which cuts down on the mess in my shop, and makes it quicker.
 
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mike_sno

Goblin Guru
Well, you are way better equipeed as I am in my garage. I have a cherry picker, dolly and a few jacks. In my company I have an overhead crane, but I did not want to block the shop as we have not enough space anyway. I also did everything myself, with litteraly no help at all. Including bleeding the clutch,... A long 2x4 helps a lot. :D I rather have sabotage in my garage when the kids come and play with the tools,... LOL.

The idea of putting the engine on a dolly and rotating it 90degrees and rolling it out the back is great! I places the cherry picker from behind Goblin to lift the frame and the way out back was blocked by it. So I had to lift the chassis high enough to roll it out to the front/middle of the car. I needed to jack up the front of the car as well to have enough clearance. If I ever have to change the engine again I see if I can lift the chassis from the side and keep the way back clear. Currently my LSJ sits dissasambled in the Goblin.

I think overall I accounted 8h for pulling out the engine, chaninge the gearbox over ( I only have the one F23 gearbox, thats why I wondered about the look of Rosses drive shafts.), exchanging the harness and putting the other engine in. I found it most challenging to mate the gearbox to the engine and lifting the chassis high.

Ross, I am at the same point. I spend money on the used LSJ, Clutch, Alternator, now the head gasket,decking,... And I wonder if I should spend more money for an unkown outcome. But then I think, all the parts I purchase now, I can use for another LSJ, if this one does not work out. I am eager to see what you will do with the LSJ and it seems @Rauq did also some nice modifications.

I don´t want to start a hughe discussion, so let´s see. Why did you decide for a LSJ and not a LNF for the 2nd engine?
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Probably shouldn’t speak for Ross, but changing from LSJ to LNF is as much work or more than non-SC to SC. Without nearly as much gain or any.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I would be happy with an LSJ, LNF, or an LE5... the LSJ just found me. Both my LSJs are 2006, so all parts can swap between them. I had a hard time being patient for ~10 weeks to find the first LSJ, and the second one was just a deal I couldn't turn down.
 

mike_sno

Goblin Guru
Ahh, got it. You have 2 identicall LSJs. That makes a lot sense. For me the decision was LAP upgrading, to LSJ or LNF. I thought it was a pretty tough decision as all 3 engine types (NA, SC and TC) have something the other one doesn´t.
 

mike_sno

Goblin Guru
AllDataDIY has the oil pressure sensor in the location that my engine has a plug:
View attachment 11930

Anyone succeeded in removing this plug (2) out of an LSJ engine?
I'm using a Torx 40, and a hand impact, WD40, hot air gun, mapp gas... It is almost stripped... think my welder is next...
View attachment 11928


My engine has (1) engine oil pressure switch located near the oil cooler.
(2) is the CKP crankshaft position sensor... which is 3 in the picture above.
View attachment 11929
Ross, I would love to see the oil pressure and temperature. Do you know if the oil pressure signal is just a switch or analog readout?
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
The stock LSJ has an oil pressure switch, which turns on an idiot light when the oil pressure gets below the preset limit.
 
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