ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
When Ya Got It Flaunt It!
Sweet, what are your goals? Keeping it SC or moving to a turbo? 9k RPM? 1000HP club?I plan to build a performance engine
Just don't forget to tighten up the bolts.I would like it to be a track/street car with manners, with a normal idle, and a normal clutch, so not too crazy. Most builders seem to like the high 300hp range, maybe low 400hp, so that seems like a reasonable goal.
I have been collecting parts for about 3 years... I plan to keep the supercharger, and do twin charging, like Rauq did.
The turbo I have is pretty big, so the supercharger should help it to get spinning.
ZZP Z57 Turbo (Knock off of the Borg Warner 7163 EFR turbo)
Frozenboost Water to Air Intercooler
870 CC Split Spray injectors (Bosch EV-14ES)
ZZP forged pistons and connecting rods
ZZP Stage 2 Camshafts
Supertech Valve Springs - 75#
Davies Craig Water Pump w/ LCD Controller (removing the stock water pump, balance shafts, and their chain & sprockets.)
and a bunch of maintenance items... valves, valve guides, seals, cam chain & guides, etc.
3h is really good. I counted for 8h for in and out. I dont see a hoist in the pictures, how did you get the frame over the powertrain?Took me less than 3 hours to divide Mad Max in half, with Alice helping me for the last hour.
You lay the engine on a dolly and then jack the body back up. Then you can turn the engine longways to roll out the back of the frame. I pull the subframe off right before dropping the engine but it looks like @Ross does it all as one. I do leave the suspension bits still attached to the frame though. After the 3rd or 4th time doing it, you get really good at it. I think I was right at (or under) 3 hours to pull the engine last time. It's not difficult, especially after I made myself a pulling checklist with wrench sizes and torque values for reassembly. Putting it back in is more like 4 or so. I fight a lot with the solid mounts going back in and go slower to make sure I hook everything up right. Also, fluid comes out a lot faster than it goes back in.3h is really good. I counted for 8h for in and out. I don't see a hoist in the pictures, how did you get the frame over the powertrain?
And the difference in architecture between the LNF vs LSJ would require swapping out the ecu and wiring I think.I don´t want to start a hughe discussion, so let´s see. Why did you decide for a LSJ and not a LNF for the 2nd engine?
Yes, direct injection makes it very different from LSJ.And the difference in architecture between the LNF vs LSJ would require swapping out the ecu and wiring I think.
Ross, I would love to see the oil pressure and temperature. Do you know if the oil pressure signal is just a switch or analog readout?AllDataDIY has the oil pressure sensor in the location that my engine has a plug:
View attachment 11930
Anyone succeeded in removing this plug (2) out of an LSJ engine?
I'm using a Torx 40, and a hand impact, WD40, hot air gun, mapp gas... It is almost stripped... think my welder is next...
View attachment 11928
My engine has (1) engine oil pressure switch located near the oil cooler.
(2) is the CKP crankshaft position sensor... which is 3 in the picture above.
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