Scotts 2009 SS/TC #478

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
POS Subaru - bought not built - custom in the Ricers minds. Fart cans, obnoxious body work, stupid wheel/tire camber, 1 inch of ground clearance - and don't forget the 90 inch multilevel rear wing. Idiots don't know a true performance custom - built not bought - until it embarrasses them with a fading view of a Goblins tail lights. :p:cool:
That's a pretty narrow-minded, broad brush stroke covering Subarus, but I have seen some that match that stereotype.
 

DUNE

Active Member
POS Subaru - bought not built - custom in the Ricers minds. Fart cans, obnoxious body work, stupid wheel/tire camber, 1 inch of ground clearance - and don't forget the 90 inch multilevel rear wing. Idiots don't know a true performance custom - built not bought - until it embarrasses them with a fading view of a Goblins tail lights. :p:cool:
Hahaha to be fair this one was very heavily modified and the owner did do a really good job on it. Thank you for validating my frustration though. :D It's all good though, all the amazing conversations that I had and the looks I got on my short (and very illegal ride) were more than enough gratification for me! This is going to be a very interesting car to drive in the public. My 10 min drive from where we parked the trailer to the show was filled with broken neck stares and people rolling down windows to ask what the car was. Ill throw in a couple pics here of how she currently sits (its nice to have photographer friends) . Cant wait for my new wheels to come in....
 

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DUNE

Active Member
Now I got a few questions for you guys. I've got a couple things I need to sort out yet

First one is a two wire, white connector by my dash area that I don't have connections for. Anyone know what this is for?

Second pic is a light blue wire that I have rolled up by my fuse box. Its not the radiator fan wire as that is hooked up and working already. Thinking it could be the Heat exchanger fan wire? If so, does this need to be wired in to the same connection as the radiator fan wire?

Third pic is the brass hose barb connector on my MAF pipe. What is the purpose of this and where should it be connected to?

Fourth picture is my engine cover which seems to look different from the contoured ones that I have seen previously on the forum. Mine appears go down further on the turbo side and doesn't have the curves behind the seats. With the new coolant location being as high as it is now, it appears to be just as high as my intercooler. Can anyone with the new coolant reservoir location confirm whether or not Ill have to cut around that as well?
 

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Sebnuts

Well-Known Member
First one is a two wire, white connector by my dash area
Ambient light sensor.

Second pic is a light blue wire that I have rolled up by my fuse box
Could be the heat exchanger fan or pump wire? If it's one of those, it wouldn't be wired to the same connection as the radiator fan wire, you would want those 2 to be on all the time if the key is on. Check this or this post on where those 2 should connect.

Third pic goes to a vent in your valve cover. Needs to have a check valve in the line as well. See this post for more info.

4th pic is your footwell cover, not your engine cover.
 

DUNE

Active Member
Ambient light sensor.


Could be the heat exchanger fan or pump wire? If it's one of those, it wouldn't be wired to the same connection as the radiator fan wire, you would want those 2 to be on all the time if the key is on. Check this or this post on where those 2 should connect.

Third pic goes to a vent in your valve cover. Needs to have a check valve in the line as well. See this post for more info.

4th pic is your footwell cover, not your engine cover.
Wooooooooow, you just blew my mind. I diddnt even know the Goblin had a footwell cover until yesterday, so for the past 2 months I've been assuming this was my engine cover since it's the only other fiberglass piece I received. That makes so much me sense.

As for the light blue wire, my intercooler water pump works just fine with key on power. You're saying the heat exchanger fan should be the same?
 

Sebnuts

Well-Known Member
As for the light blue wire, my intercooler water pump works just fine with key on power. You're saying the heat exchanger fan should be the same?
Yes, considering you want your IAT as low as possible, there's no reason to ever have the heat exchanger fan off.
 

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
A widebody & wrapped Subaru STI... Production cars for the win I guess. Can't lie I'm a bit bummed on that one
Also here's the picture of the wing mount spacers
I've lost most unique to a guy with a speaker box matching his interior and another time to someone with color matched brackets and wire loom in their engine compartment. :D The old timers at our local shows say it's all about who you know.
CHRIS
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I've lost most unique to a guy with a speaker box matching his interior and another time to someone with color matched brackets and wire loom in their engine compartment. :D The old timers at our local shows say it's all about who you know.
CHRIS
It used to be that shows would reward regulars who couldn't win the main awards with the participation awards.
 

DUNE

Active Member
I've lost most unique to a guy with a speaker box matching his interior and another time to someone with color matched brackets and wire loom in their engine compartment. :D The old timers at our local shows say it's all about who you know.
CHRIS
Ouch, that's got to sting a bit :oops::)
 

DUNE

Active Member
Ok, just dropped the car off this afternoon at a shop for a safety inspection (fingers crossed they are forgiving) and an alignment. Now they are asking me what number I want for the alignment with camber and caster. What would be a good recommended setup for primarily street usage?
 

Sebnuts

Well-Known Member
DF recommends 8° caster for the front. -1.5° camber and 1/8" toe in for the front and rear.
That's about 0.3° of total toe based on the toe plates they use.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
I would only run -.5 to -.8 on camber up front. At -1.5 you never really use the outside of the tire at all. Around -.5, the whole tire seems to get used.

Rear will fall where it falls on camber, which is normally around -1.x.
 

Sebnuts

Well-Known Member
I would only run -.5 to -.8 on camber up front. At -1.5 you never really use the outside of the tire at all. Around -.5, the whole tire seems to get used.
I'm planning on running -0.5 up front as well, but my suspension is completely different than stock. I only suggested the DF recommendations based on Adam's front and rear alignment posts ( that I had just been reading up on :cool: ).
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Are you hooking your 'PCV' outlet to the hose barb on the air filter intake pipe? Everything I looked at and read the valve cover vent - on the passenger side rear corner - goes to this hose barb. This one:
20230903_105949.jpg

The connecting hose gets a one way check valve to allow filtered air into the engine, but not allow crankcase pressurized air to flow back into the pipe.

The PCV outlet goes into the intake manifold to function correctly and is internal to the manifold with no external connection - in the stock configuration
 

DUNE

Active Member
I w
Are you hooking your 'PCV' outlet to the hose barb on the air filter intake pipe? Everything I looked at and read the valve cover vent - on the passenger side rear corner - goes to this hose barb. This one:
View attachment 42541
The connecting hose gets a one way check valve to allow filtered air into the engine, but not allow crankcase pressurized air to flow back into the pipe.

The PCV outlet goes into the intake manifold to function correctly and is internal to the manifold with no external connection - in the stock configuration
I was planning on hooking the intake hose barb to the outlet in your picture. Is that the PCV connection?
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
On a TC the PCV is inside the intake manifold, it has no external connection. The vent tube in the photo, at the passenger side rear corner of the valve cover in front of the turbo, is the engine crankcase vent that allows a metered amount of air into the engine under certain normal operating conditions. It is connected to the hose barb next to the MAF in the air filter intake pipe that goes to the inlet of turbo - and as mentioned it requires a check valve (one-way valve) that should have been removed during your donor teardown.

The fitting on the intake manifold, the larger black one, is the location of the brake booster vacuum hose connection that is routed through the tunnel up to the front of the car to a similar fitting on the booster housing.
 

DUNE

Active Member
On a TC the PCV is inside the intake manifold, it has no external connection. The vent tube in the photo, at the passenger side rear corner of the valve cover in front of the turbo, is the engine crankcase vent that allows a metered amount of air into the engine under certain normal operating conditions. It is connected to the hose barb next to the MAF in the air filter intake pipe that goes to the inlet of turbo - and as mentioned it requires a check valve (one-way valve) that should have been removed during your donor teardown.

The fitting on the intake manifold, the larger black one, is the location of the brake booster vacuum hose connection that is routed through the tunnel up to the front of the car to a similar fitting on the booster housing.
Ok that makes sense then. The brake booster vacuum hose I have connected already. How did you connect the intake hose barb to the crankcase intake? Did you manage to re-use the stock lines or did you have to purchase new connecters, line & check valve?
 
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