Shawn Maine - Builders log - Track goblin / El Diablo - 07 LT donor

[Restoman]

MY name is Shawn and live in S.E. Iowa. We are about to build a track goblin to be used mostly on the street. This isn't my first build as I own a Hot Rod shop and have been restoring/building cars since I was 16. My 11 year old daughter is excited to get started.

I will be posting the project as we go and what things we found out along the way. If things go well, we might offer to build some for our customers in the future.

Follow along and watch "El Diablo" come to life (it's nickname because we had the chassis powder coated red!

 

[Restoman]

Picked up our donor from our local Copart. We have a little over $1,000 in it. It's an 07 LT with just over 81,000 miles. IT seems to have been well taken care of by the previous owner. It took a hit on the RH front side and we'll need to replace a few suspension parts but I'm ok with that. Wanted to install new struts anyway.

 

[Restoman]

So we got started on the Donor disassembly this weekend. My Daughter and I were knee deep in destruction!

A few observations and notes for future builders.

1.)We started our disassembly in the rear and worked forward. Next time I will start in the front and work my way to the rear. The dash is a complicated removal with a lot screws and bolts. Some of them are kinda hidden behind the engine on the firewall and 2 little boogers inside the cowl behind the wiper motor! I had most of the interior done but had to stop because the hidden bolts i couldn't find. After removing the engine and transmission I found them and then could finish the dash removal.

2.) I didn't remove the doors, hood, trunk or fenders. I left them on and really didn't see the need to take them off. I didn't have any trouble working around them and I saved some time by not removing them. I put all the unused interior pieces back in after disassembly and closed the doors. I wont get rid of the car until the project is finished just in case i forgot something.

3.) Front bumper, wheel liners will need to be removed.

4.) Study all your connectors before unhooking them. I swear each one is different. Don't brake them, most are not replaceable.

5.) This isn't hard. My 11 year old daughter did most of the nut/bolt and screw removal. 75% of them are 7mm and 10mm and a ton of plastic clips. Get a good clip removal tool or two.

 

[Restoman]

We have the engine and transmission removed today as well as all the wiring. in two days my 11 year old daughter and myself have 10 hours total involved in the disassembly. Some of my time was spent teaching her how to remove clips and which tools to use and why. 2 experienced adults might be able to get it done a little faster, but the estimate given by Adam is accurate. Plan on a weekend for disassembly.

The wiring harness removed from the car and laying on the shop floor is huge! I plan on removing some items after the car is running. (Dome light, air bags, stuff like that) MARK EACH CONNECTOR you unhook. You will not remember where each one goes or is not needed when you're reassembling the harness. I marked connectors like this: Hazard button, BCM (body control module), E-brake switch, LH front door connector, etc.

If I disconnected a male/female plug I would label each end like this: (male connector) A-1 and then (female connector) A-1. That way when I went back together I new to join those two connectors.

 

[Restoman]

Adam sent me a picture of our chassis "El Diablo".

Cant want to start installing parts!!!

 

[Adam]

Hey Shawn,

Looks like you've got a great donor. I like the gauges with the white background and since your donor has cruise control already (based on the buttons on the steering wheel) it'll be easier to get cruise control working in your Goblin.

Thanks for the stripping notes. I've already updated the detailed donor parts document to include the dash bolts hidden under the windshield wiper motor.

The wiring is huge and was a little intimidating for us the first time we got it out on the floor. On P1 and P2 we were able to strip out a whole bunch of the wiring.

After we deliver kits we are going to try to stay several steps ahead of you guys as we build the factory built cars here at our shop. As we build these cars, we are going to document it very well and write up instructions so that you can quickly move through the build. These instructions will include how to thin out and extend the wiring harness.

 

[Restoman]

Spent some time today cleaning up the engine of unused parts. I removed the A/C compressor and will run a smaller belt. I will post the proper belt size when I get it installed later this week

Also looped the heater hoses as I wont need a heater.
Started with this....I cut the hoses off when I removed the engine, I left about 8-10" of heater hose on each end

I removed each one and used the larger diameter one. (Both nipples are the same size on the engine. The smaller hose is belled out on one end so it will fit.)

After some experimentation, I discovered that the larger hose will make a nice "U" shaped bend in one part of the hose.

Cut the ends off so that it will fit properly and reinstall with the old clamps

Avoid the temptation to just block them off. The heating system is like a bypass in the cooling system. Just blocking them off might cause the cooling system to not work properly. After all, this looping system doesn't cost anything and only take a few minutes when the engine is out.

 

[Adam]

Conveniently, a belt for the Ecotec without an AC compressor is sold at the parts stores. Anyone that wants to get rid of the compressor can just ask the parts store for part number K050345.

How you loop the heater hose is exactly how we did it. Like you said, it is important to loop this hose. Without it, the water in the cylinder head and block would be stagnate and would get way too hot before the thermostat would get hot enough to open.

 

[Adam]

Also, I couldn't see in the pics, but now is a good time to separate the subframe and the engine/transmission. With them apart, you can really clean everything and paint the subframe.

 

[Adam]

I also forgot to tell you that we have started collecting parts from local salvage yards to sell to customers that have bent parts. We've got a few control arms, knuckles, axles and more. Let us know what looks bent and we can deliver them with the kit.

 

[Jkean949]

Adam the spare parts selling is a great idea...I am certainly going to need a few.

Shawn, I envy your shop space. A nervous point I have with this project is having to get rid of the hull before finishing; or starting the actual build really. I went with pulling the doors, hood, rear deck lid and the undamaged fender to sell to the local salvage yard. I have to make a trip for the hood, may as well sell what I can.

 

[DanPerryy]

Shawn - a great job. Tell your daughter that she can get a job anywhere now. If she would like to come to Texas we have a spare room for her, plenty of food, and she can work on Goblin.

 

[DanPerryy]

Also the marking of connectors on the harness is a great idea. I think there are way too many to keep track of by memory event though many of the connectors are different. I was thinking of creating a sheet of labels for the critical wires and putting the labels on "hang tags" that are attached to the harness. When I tear down mine I will generate the list and post it.

 

[Restoman]

I also forgot to tell you that we have started collecting parts from local salvage yards to sell to customers that have bent parts. We've got a few control arms, knuckles, axles and more. Let us know what looks bent and we can deliver them with the kit.

Great idea...I'm upgrading the lower control arms to the sport, aluminum arms. And I have new struts already. The knuckle was the hard part but I found one locally at the salvage yard. I would suggest trying to sell some of your parts through craigslist first. Salvage yards around here won't give you hardly anything for parts.

 

[Restoman]

Adam the spare parts selling is a great idea...I am certainly going to need a few.

Shawn, I envy your shop space. A nervous point I have with this project is having to get rid of the hull before finishing; or starting the actual build really. I went with pulling the doors, hood, rear deck lid and the undamaged fender to sell to the local salvage yard. I have to make a trip for the hood, may as well sell what I can.

The shop space is my collision and repair facility. Being the owner I secured one of the spaces for the project. I would do it at home but I have all my good tools at the shop. If you like this spot, I'll post a picture of the hot rod shop...you'll love that one.

 

[Restoman]

Also, I couldn't see in the pics, but now is a good time to separate the subframe and the engine/transmission. With them apart, you can really clean everything and paint the subframe.

We're on task to do that this week...should have it painted and ready by Saturday.

 

[Jkean949]

Shawn, I'm having trouble even finding a salvage yard that will take body parts...I have called the majority in Kansas City and they want the whole car or nothing.

 

[Adam]

Great idea...I'm upgrading the lower control arms to the sport, aluminum arms.

Before you install the control arms, I would recommend pushing out the rubber bushings and installing Moog's replacement bushing. It is actually a spherical bearing with rubber dust caps and it does not flex like the stock bushing. This makes the car feel much more connected to the road.

 

[Adam]

John,

You might want to post pics of the pieces you have on the CobaltSS.net classifieds forum. Not sure how shipping works but I've seen lots of large items sell on there.

 

[Jkean949]

Shawn, I looked at doing that last night...I have to have 50 posts before I can start a thread. I'm building up my number of posts. I thought about just going to each thread and making a random comment, but if the admin caught on I figure they would likely delete the account.Good call though, thanks!