Stonewerks’ Track Goblin - 09 LT donor, Michigan Build #272

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ah.b.normal

Goblin Guru
Desert Sasqwatch said:
Or maybe the roaming Cobalt parts guru - @ah.b.normal - may have aline on scrounging up a clutch pedal assy?
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DS, thanks for the unsolicited recommendation. I know I have an old style but new type is in question. I'll not be home until Sunday. Stonewerks, if those leads fail to produce, message me directly under my name. I probably could send one Wednesday the 10th, next week. I am in Columbus, GA, a long way from Michigan! Thanks again, Dr. Squach!
 
Stonewerks

Stonewerks

Member
For our Goblin frame, the radiator frame parts had already been attached to the frame when we got it. So we never noticed it and sent it to the power coater. Now we are looking to mount the horn but the screw filled in with paint and sealed. We have tried to scrape out the paint and then use an allen wrench but failed and at this point I think we rounded out the head. The brake master cylinder is right there so things are also a bit tight and 4 inches from the screw to clearance above the master cylinder.

At this point I think we have 2 options.
1. Get a screw extractor and remove that screw from the frame. Put in a replacement screw BHCS 1/4-20 x 1.
2. Use a self drilling screw and mount the horn closer to the driver side frame of the car. Not sure if this will get in the way of other parts down the road.

Looking for opinions and/or input on how to do this better than what we have done so far.

46598


46599


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comegetjoe

comegetjoe

Goblin Guru
If you MUST get them out... and you're feeling confident, I have used torx sockets and hammered them into the bolt head. You still have to size out the torx bit properly, but it can be done. A 12" extension in the socket will give you extra room so you have space to hammer freely.

You'll have to source new hardware with this method as I would not recommend using the old hardware.
 
G

gofast

Active Member
Relocating the horn is the easy solution. If the screw must come out either now or at a later date, here are some ideas. There probably isn't enough room now, but it looks like a vice grip would grab the head just fine. Another option is to saw a slot into the head and use a hand impact that you strike with a hammer with a straight bit to remove it. The third option you could easily do now: Grind/sand the paint off the screw head. Drive the allen wrench into the screw as best you can. Build a cone around the screw head with masking tape. Fill the cone up with JB Weld and turn the screw out after the JB Weld has cured. Just know you may loose your allen wrench using this method.
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Keep in mind, this screw is installed into a rivnut in the frame tube. If it's cross-threaded into the rivnut, chances are 50/50 the rivnut will strip out of the tube before the screw will turn to loosen. It you believe it's paint or powder coating in the threads, try heating the screw with a heat gun or torch - if available.

For the most stubborn screws, clean off the paint/powder coat and hammer the Allen wrench into the head, then tack weld it to the screw head - alternative if sacrificing the Allen wrench as @gofast stated above. Something will come loose and you can rework this fastener location.
 
Traé

Traé

Well-Known Member
If you can fit a Dremel with a small cut off wheel in there you might be able to put a slot on top and use a flathead screwdriver to get the screw out if it has rounded off.
 
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