Anks329
Well-Known Member
I left the axles in the whole time... I did drain and replace the transmission fluid, but that was once I got the goblin started the first time.
Stonewerks’ Track Goblin - 09 LT donor, Michigan Build #272
- Thread starter Stonewerks
- Start date
You can also drop the transmission/engine assembly with the transaxles in place. Really no need to move them unless you plan on pulling the trans off the engine for a clutch change. My assembly is hanging from the Harbor Freight hoist with transaxles in tack at the moment. Dropped it onto a 1000lb furniture dolly from harbor freight. Needed to buy the 30mm socket to break the axle nuts loose. Needed a second furniture dolly to put the chassis on so I can move it around for the cut up process to junk it.
Like JBINX said, we all had a tool or more that was needed for this build and used it to justify the purchase. I've spent $500 in tools from Harbor Freight since the start of this build, and I had a tool chest full of tools before I started the project (read a 52w x 56h x 21d tool chest full of tools). Don't let the need for additional tools be a deterrent for building anything, there will almost always been some one off tool that you will need when looking at a project.
Like JBINX said, we all had a tool or more that was needed for this build and used it to justify the purchase. I've spent $500 in tools from Harbor Freight since the start of this build, and I had a tool chest full of tools before I started the project (read a 52w x 56h x 21d tool chest full of tools). Don't let the need for additional tools be a deterrent for building anything, there will almost always been some one off tool that you will need when looking at a project.
PaulPerger
Well-Known Member
SO True... I always budget an extra 10-15% for tools when I attack a project. I am approaching this one a little differently though. All of the "extra" things I don't need to have, but would be really nice to have, are on my Christmas list this year! Sand blasting Cabinet, Powder Coating system, and a few other odds and ends. We'll see if the strategy works in a few weeks. If it does, I'll have the budget for a few more toys, er... tools!
Goblin Graber
Well-Known Member
I’m using the same strategy! Guess who’s getting a 3D printer for Christmas? Lol
PaulPerger
Well-Known Member
I used the desire to donate to the COVID causes to get my 3D printer... The first three months I owned it, it was at a friend's house printing face mask tie backs and face shield bands. (He has several 3D printers and works from home, so he could print 5 times as many as I could every day...) But, now that 3D printer is busy printing storage containers for all the screws, bolts, and bits that will come off the Cobalt!!
Stonewerks
Member
Looking for a phone a friend support!
We made some progress today and are ready to drop the power train but we have this one last hose that we cannot track down what it is or how to remove it. It has this plastic hose that goes from the firewall to the transmission.
Anyone know what this is and how we are suppose to remove it?
We made some progress today and are ready to drop the power train but we have this one last hose that we cannot track down what it is or how to remove it. It has this plastic hose that goes from the firewall to the transmission.
Anyone know what this is and how we are suppose to remove it?
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Clutch line, removes with a 'C' clip from the transmission and clutch cylinder. Keep the line, clips, and the o-ring that will likely end up on the metal nipple on the transmission.
Stonewerks
Member
Thank you so much!
Pulled the line and drained what fluid was in the line and on to the next step!
Stonewerks
Member
We made some progress today. The boy and I were able to get the motor pulled which wraps up video 4.
Started on video 5 and we got stopped because we need to pickup a 7mm socket and a T50 Torx. Will pick those up tomorrow and keep moving.
Few questions for those experienced.
1. I am assuming that unless stated, these interior parts are not needed such as the plastic tunnel parts, weather stripping etc. Is that a correct assumption?
2. Our car had been in a front end collision that apparently was pretty solid hit. Both the front and rear transmission mounts are broken. Do these need to be replaced or does the Goblin not need them?
Started on video 5 and we got stopped because we need to pickup a 7mm socket and a T50 Torx. Will pick those up tomorrow and keep moving.
Few questions for those experienced.
1. I am assuming that unless stated, these interior parts are not needed such as the plastic tunnel parts, weather stripping etc. Is that a correct assumption?
2. Our car had been in a front end collision that apparently was pretty solid hit. Both the front and rear transmission mounts are broken. Do these need to be replaced or does the Goblin not need them?
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
1. Correct, you won't need them.
2. Since yours are broken you might consider just ordering DF's solid lower motor mounts. I think they were $125.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
I have the front and rear Cobalt mounts, will not be using them. PM me if think you would like them. I will get photos once I am back home.
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
Waite "you wont need them" so why order solid mounts? I had asked this question some time ago but didn't get an answer. Does the kit come with mounts? or are the stock rubber mounts to be reused if you do not order solid mounts from DF?
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
I can cover this one!
Im a bit closer, If solid mount is an "option" I think that is what I want. I can send him mine.
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
The upper engine mounting is solid, directly to the frame. You do not reuse the Cobalts upper rubber mounts.
For the lower mounts, you have a choice to reuse the Cobalts rubber mounts or purchase DF's solid mounts.
I went with the solid lower mounts because I didn't like the idea of that twisting load put on the upper solid mounts if using the lower rubber mounts.
For the lower mounts, you have a choice to reuse the Cobalts rubber mounts or purchase DF's solid mounts.
I went with the solid lower mounts because I didn't like the idea of that twisting load put on the upper solid mounts if using the lower rubber mounts.
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
Doesn't that translate to wheel hop also?
Stonewerks
Member
After Towerdog and Waterdriver's comments I felt I needed to get educated on transmission mounts as I am uninformed on them.
Found this article Engine Mounts 101: A Basic Guide to Choosing Engine Mounts. The Cliff Notes version is there are 3 types of motor mounts, rubber (normally OEM), polyurethane and finally solid.
Basically starting with rubber, less vibration/noise but less power to the wheels up to solid which is more vibration but also most power to the wheels.
The article does not recommend mixing the types of mounts in use, as it could cause flexing like Waterdriver mentioned.
Then in the forum, Adam posted on 10/31/2017 about Solid Transmission Mounts which Waterdriver also called out. In the messages, ctuinstra also states that mixing mounts is not a good idea. Christopher Sanchez also says that it is used to get rid of wheel hop which Towerdog asked.
But found in the thread Save Motor Mounts the discussion again touches on solid and not mixing mount types but it appears there are no solid transmission mounts for a NA motor as it does not produce enough power to warrant solid mounts.
So at this point, it appears stock mounts will work on our build at is it a NA up until the time we add more power to it sometime in the future.
Thank you guys for the information! Learned something new tonight and that is always a great thing.
Found this article Engine Mounts 101: A Basic Guide to Choosing Engine Mounts. The Cliff Notes version is there are 3 types of motor mounts, rubber (normally OEM), polyurethane and finally solid.
Basically starting with rubber, less vibration/noise but less power to the wheels up to solid which is more vibration but also most power to the wheels.
The article does not recommend mixing the types of mounts in use, as it could cause flexing like Waterdriver mentioned.
Then in the forum, Adam posted on 10/31/2017 about Solid Transmission Mounts which Waterdriver also called out. In the messages, ctuinstra also states that mixing mounts is not a good idea. Christopher Sanchez also says that it is used to get rid of wheel hop which Towerdog asked.
But found in the thread Save Motor Mounts the discussion again touches on solid and not mixing mount types but it appears there are no solid transmission mounts for a NA motor as it does not produce enough power to warrant solid mounts.
So at this point, it appears stock mounts will work on our build at is it a NA up until the time we add more power to it sometime in the future.
Thank you guys for the information! Learned something new tonight and that is always a great thing.
Stonewerks
Member
Working on video 5 now. Took us a bit on getting the shifter out of the car. The video only shows the automatic and since we have never done this we have no experience to pull from. So we searched and dug around to figure out how to to get that out. In the end it was simpler that what we made it and I still ended up breaking off a piece of the connector, will have to see if we need that later in the build.
We got the interior stripped down and were to the point of pulling the dashboard when my co-worker had to go get ready for bed as it is a school night!
We got the interior stripped down and were to the point of pulling the dashboard when my co-worker had to go get ready for bed as it is a school night!
Stonewerks
Member
We are stuck and looking for suggestions.
Trying to remove the drum brakes off the rear of the Cobalt and we cannot get them off. We can spin the wheel so assume that means they are not stuck open. We have put penetrating oil on them and hit with a mallet. But we are still unable to even rock them back and forth as we have seen in some other drum brake removal videos.
Are car was involved in an accident so I would assume that means they stomped on the brakes before impact but not sure if that would have done anything to the brakes where we can remove them.
Trying to remove the drum brakes off the rear of the Cobalt and we cannot get them off. We can spin the wheel so assume that means they are not stuck open. We have put penetrating oil on them and hit with a mallet. But we are still unable to even rock them back and forth as we have seen in some other drum brake removal videos.
Are car was involved in an accident so I would assume that means they stomped on the brakes before impact but not sure if that would have done anything to the brakes where we can remove them.
gearjammer
Active Member
Mine didn’t have drums.... But there could be rust buildup inside that prevents the drum from sliding off. Often cars have some access point where you can turn a wheel to retract the brake pads. Might be under a rubber cover on the back side? If that isn’t it...BFH?