On the skid pad rear inside was in the air with the 175lb springs ! 500 was way to much !On the rear the wheel rate is about 89% of spring rate. I use 50% when guessing front wheel rate.
If you use a 500# spring your rear spring will hanging loose on the inside wheel of a turn.
Brad
Now running a 36” 6” arms front swaybar with 300lb springs. The rear I have variable rate 140/250 springs and no swaybar a 275 equivalent front rcomp and a 295rcomp in the rear. 1/4 toe in front 1/4 toe in rear.Are you running the rear swaybar? The SS came with a 23mms - way too stiff - but the base models came with a 18mm, which has possibilities. It would allow running softer springs but still keep the inside rear wheel on the ground. In my thinking, getting the rear to keep both wheels in contact with the pavement using as soft springs as possible, then tune the front to match as it has much more adjustability.
Should be less wish I had a guage to measure it. Would like to get the bumpsteer out of the rear, thinking about cutting the toe bar and moving both inner ball joints out about an inch to help.. My biggest issue is the instant yaw moment from the akerman when I crank the wheel.Have yoy removed bump steer.
Brad
Was your bumpsteer coming from the length, angle position or both ? I had to put the stock link ends back on for more length eventually I plan to go the heim joints.Before I bought one this can be done. Remove wheel Attach a laser beam to the rotor for the rear pointing back. Use a white board or plywood as a target. Remove spring set suspension to ride height then when you raise and lower the suspension the lase will plot your bump steer curve very exaggerated.
Brad
OK its starting to make more sense. Moved the ball joint down 1/2 now there's only .5 of bumpsteer over 72", getting closer !Do not worry about calculating just make a change and see if you can improve. With that multiplication it will show up real quick.
Brad