TC / SC clutch upgrades


Active Member
I have read some varied build threads regarding clutch replacements and upgrades. They seem to be all over. I thought it might be worth while to get some more recent input as to details that would be a guide to do a clutch upgrade. I know that ZZP offers several good options. Any other favorite sources? And, some of you have already done some upgrades and will have some 20/20 hindsight here. I assume everyone will have their own idea for the average life of the stock clutch. Mine seems to be fine after 82k miles, but I would like to do maybe a small upgrade now while the engine is still on the stand.

Let's break it into at least two "stages". After you have decided to NOT replace with stock components, then what would be the first detailed list of items to upgrade it? Include part numbers, source, approximate cost, etc.

And then, the second list which would be a WAY more aggressive upgrade (and probably more $$$).

Item list may include: clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, throw out bearing, and ???? Advantages and disadvantages?



Well-Known Member
Stage 1 story:
My 2006 SS SC clutch slave started acting up, so I had to separate the transmission from the engine. These 3 little bolts required a hand impact to get out.

Once it was apart, might as well check the clutch. Seems to be transfering some metal from the clutch to the flywheel. It was working great before I took it apart, but I am here now, might as well do some maintenance.
Old flywheel, clutch & pressure plate pictures:

So I had to make a clutch decision... which wasn't easy, as I have never driven a car with a performance clutch.
I wanted to hold higher power, as I want to build my engine, but I also wanted it to be easy to drive on the street.
Seems like those 2 things are opposites, unless you want an expensive ($1500) dual disk organic compound clutch.

O'reilly auto parts resurfaced the original flywheel for $85, beside it was some chevy parts ($65) for the distribution block, plastic clip for it, & internal clutch line. ZZP sold me ($357) a 300hp GMPP clutch & pressure plate, 6 pressure plate bolts, LNF clutch slave for my LSJ, and a plastic alignment tool.

Still need to buy new flywheel bolts. Apparently the ARP ones are too tall, so I may have to go back to chevy parts at twice the cost.

- Clutch price.
- Reviews say it feels like the stock clutch, so easy to drive.
- Stock dual mass 19lbs flywheel allows for easier clutch feathering, less likely to stall the engine.
- Resurfacing the stock flywheel is about half the cost of ZZP dual mass, and a lot less than a single mass flywheel.
- 300hp. Although it is rated at 300hp for a Cobalt, many people said it was a conserative rating, and I am hoping our light Goblins will be easier on the clutch than a Cobalt. I don't know if I will build the engine higher than 300hp any time soon.
- stock heavy flywheel robs a bit of power when reving up the engine.
- There was 1mm of clutch material above the rivets on the old clutch. The new clutch arrived, and it has about the same 1mm of material, so maybe I didn't need to replace my clutch. Oh well, I am past that point now.
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Well-Known Member
I am still on the OEM clutch in my Cavalier with 110,000+ of hard miles(autocross, some drag racing, burnouts, etc). I originally supercharged the car 10ish years ago at 40k-50k miles and have increased the power every other year to its current 285whp/246wtq. I believe that unless you are going for big horsepower/torque numbers then an OEM Luk or Exidy replacement clutch will hold up just fine for most Goblins.


Well-Known Member
Keeping an eye on this. I’m going through the same thing now. My dyno tune revealed a bad clutch even though it didn’t appear to need replacing when I was in there but did appear a bit rusty. Ordered an ACT chromoly flywheel but was told they wouldn’t work with the GM clutch so cancelled that order . Got the GMPP clutch and ZZP aluminum flywheel, flywheel arrived with no bolts and ordered those now waiting on the new flywheel bolts. Should be here tomorrow and I will hopefully tackle this Sunday.


Staff member
None of the images above shows a dual mass flywheel. On a dual mass flywheel the clutch surface floats on a bearing it is not locked to the crankshaft.

Dual mass flywheels are complex, some of them have springs, gears and counter weights inside.

If you hold the flywheel portion that bolts to the crankshaft, you can twist the clutch surface portion back and forth with your hands and feel it loading up some internal springs and other drive mechanisms inside the flywheel.

Adam's Pontiac Solstice had one.


Active Member
I have only dropped two transmissions before and neither were a front wheel drive model. I know most of the steps will be similar, but I just hate getting to a point where I am a little unsure about the order of steps, or missing something small, applying force when I shouldn't and breaking a part. I started this thread to get some actual Goblin input for the clutch upgrades others have done already and the good/bad to go along with it. I searched the forum for a good step by step list for the replacement procedure. I failed to find one. Doesn't mean it is not buried somewhere, though. Not sure how long the link below will be active, but it is a really good step by step with pictures. Many can be skipped since we have the engine on a stand. Hope it helps some of the other novices out there like me!
PS: Read the additional comments below the article FIRST! This guy was doing this for the first time and actually did a few things that were unnecessary. Cheers!