Thermostat Housing Delete on 2.0L/2.2L/2.4L/L61/LE5/LSJ/LNF

JeffsGoblin

Well-Known Member
Anybody running one of these along with an external oil cooler on their LSJ? If yes, how would you hook up the reservoir tank?
 

KLMOTORSPORTS

Well-Known Member
I have one for mine but haven’t plumbed it yet...mine has the AN16 fitting (going AN fittings for all engine fluid connections)...was thinking the same question you are asking
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JeffsGoblin

Well-Known Member
Could you just put a tee off the hose and run it to the reservoir? I asked CBM but they never got back with me.
 

JeffsGoblin

Well-Known Member
On most of our engines, including my LSJ, I never liked the look of the heater hose looping back into itself or the thermostat housing, so I had to buy one of these: https://store.custombuiltmotors.com/cooling-system/cbm-motorsports-20l-22l-24l-l61-le5-lsj-lnf-ecotec-billet-water-neck-block-15-barb-inlet.html

As you might know, here is picture of the LSJ thermostat housing without the looped hose and water pipe. Fairly ugly.
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... and here's the water neck block from CBM. Much cleaner.
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As you can see in the picture above, you can move your water temp sensor to the port provided. The other port can be used to go to the reservoir tank. I will need to purchase a 1/8" NPT to 3/8" barb fitting (if 3/8" hose is what the reservoir takes). I know I'm being picky, but it is just something I wanted to change. It provides no performance enhancements, just aesthetics. With this, I'll also need to do something else with the stock oil cooler and I'll provide a write up on that at a later time.
 
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JeffsGoblin

Well-Known Member
Initially, I wasn't going to regulate the coolant temp and it will be like the thermostat is open all the time. After seeing your question and researching for my lack of knowledge, I guess I'll use a inline thermostat. Thoughts and/or ideas? I'm open to criticism since initially didn't even know I needed to regulate the temp. That is the great thing about this build... I'm learning A LOT, especially from my fellow DFG builders! Thanks!
 

Briann1177

Well-Known Member
You should really use a thermostat to regulate the temp. I know that some vehicles will throw a code if it takes too long for the engine to get up to operating temp. Not sure about the Cobalts though.
 

JSATX

Well-Known Member
Well, now you are opening yourself up to several other issues. Because the engine was originally designed to allow the water pump impeller to still cycle water through the radiator and around the thermostat.
 

JeffsGoblin

Well-Known Member
Justin, can you elaborate? When I look at the stock housing and the placement of the thermostat, I was under the assumption I was replicating the same setup just without the heater core hose and oil cooler hose connections.
 
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JSATX

Well-Known Member
With an in-line thermostat and no heater core lines I’m not sure the water pump can still cycle though the engine. When the thermostat is closed in the oem config the water pump still pumps water though the engine, just not through the radiator. But it’s really been a long time since I’ve dealt with this so I could be misremembering.

All I’m saying is don’t close off your pump completely. It still needs to cycle water though the engine at all times.
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JeffsGoblin

Well-Known Member
Thanks Justin. I think I see what you mean. Looking at your diagram above, I see where the bypass is indicated by red arrow going into the thermostat housing. This is blocked off using the CBM device and if I use a inline thermostat and it is closed, there will be no water flow at all.

I just called CBM and they said they've sold about 1,500 of these devices (their most popular ecotec item) and everyone is running with no thermostat without problems and they've been selling them for 10+ years. Obviously, they aren't running in cold temperatures. The coldest temp I'll ever get my Goblin out in will be ~70 degrees.
 

CajunJeff

Member
You should really use a thermostat to regulate the temp. I know that some vehicles will throw a code if it takes too long for the engine to get up to operating temp. Not sure about the Cobalts though.
Can confirm, my Ion currently does this. In temps below about 44ºF , it takes a LONG time for it to warm up to operating temperature and throws a code, and below 32ºF it never gets up to temp. Which sucks, because the windshield defogger and heater don't work when I need them most...
 

JeffsGoblin

Well-Known Member
From one Jeff to another... do you really plan on driving your Goblin in 44ºF weather? :rolleyes::) I will not, so from what CBM says, there is no need for a thermostat when using their adapter. Most likely KLMOTORSPORTS will have his running before me, so he can provide a status on how this will work for us. I'm hoping to get my engine running by Sept.
 

CajunJeff

Member
I probably wouldn't, but... you never know. It only gets cold here about 6 weeks out of the year. But when it does, it's pretty cold. Just depends on whether you're using the Goblin as a daily or not.
 

Karter2026

Well-Known Member
From one Jeff to another... do you really plan on driving your Goblin in 44ºF weather? :rolleyes::) I will not, so from what CBM says, there is no need for a thermostat when using their adapter. Most likely KLMOTORSPORTS will have his running before me, so he can provide a status on how this will work for us. I'm hoping to get my engine running by Sept.
Wow!!!! If the sun is shining and it is not supposed to snow or rain. I will drive down to 32°F Maybe lower if the pavement has been dry and no chance of icy spots.
 
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