Tinkles Street Monster - No donor Extended City chassis

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
I just placed the order for my chassis so I guess I can finally start one of these.

1st a little background. I have spent the past 10 years messing with the Cobalt's older sibling the Chevrolet Cavalier. I currently have a 2003 Cavalier base model that is all fancied up with LS Sport "body kit" and a bunch of carbon fiber. I went through the whole suspension and upgraded what I could and tossed a Harrop HTV1320-LSJ supercharger on the stock engine. It dynoed 283whp/246wtq last fall on 101 octane fuel. The car is basically as good as I can get it without cutting it up and redesigning everything. I did build a Gen 1 L61 Ecotec(from a Cavalier) to swap in it to hopefully make over 400whp with the Harrop supercharger. But I have reached the point that I want a better, RWD chassis to play with. I have known about the Goblin for awhile now, but never put much thought into it unit I saw Matt Farah's video on it. Then I saw that Demo Matt got one and then I got more familiar with just how awesome a Goblin could be from his videos. So last fall I started gathering parts, put some money aside, and told myself that at tax return time/spring time I would order one. So now I ordered an Extended City chassis Goblin(Base/Manual).

The goals for my Goblin. Mainly a street car with some light track/autocross use. I want it to be absolutely bonkers, over 400whp with a blower. I know not using a donor is going to be more expensive and increase the difficulty of the build. Since I am going to be using the engine from a Cavalier, the transmission from a Saab, and whatever upgraded Cobalt parts I can get I do not feel like spending the effort buying, stripping, and deposing of a Cobalt.

Ok, enough of the boring stuff and onto the parts I have acquire so far.
1st up is the engine.
-Gen 1 L61 block
Weisco 10:1 pistons
Eagle rods
Eagle crank
Powerbore sleeves
GMPP hardened oil pump gears
-LSJ cylinder head
Ferrera +1mm oversized valves
Supertech 78lb springs
ZZP "Stage 2" LSJ blower cams
GMPP adjustable cam gears
Golden Eagle head studs
Stock LSJ head gasket



Boost will be handled by my Harrop HTV1320-LSJ blower from my Cavalier, 2.7" blower pulley, and ported intake manifold.

For the transmission I will be using a Getrag F40 and ZZP's F40 swap kit for the Cobalts. The main issue I already know that I'll have is the flywheel/clutch. I cannot use the included flywheel. The L61 has a 6-bolt flywheel where as the LSJ/LNF both have 8-bolt. I do plan on installing a Wavetrac LSD.



Since I am using a Cavalier engine the Cobalt's stock PCM/ECU will not run it(different trigger wheels on the crank). So I am going with a full standalone ECU.



Besides a few other odds and ends that is the meat of the parts I have so far. What stock parts I do need I'll run to the junkyard for and everything else I'll try to get upgraded parts.

Other ideas I have that I'll look more into once the chassis arrives are:
Hydrolic or manual power steering(downside to not running the Cobalt computers)
Manual brakes(LNF Brembos with Wilwood manual master cylinder and pedal box)
Side mounted heat exchangers/oil cooler
Body wrapped in a colored carbon fiber/kevlar
Cable driven throttle body

For wheels I am wanting 17x8 for the fronts and 17x9 for the rears. Tires I am looking at Hankook RS4s in 245(front) and 285(rear). I am fairly sure a 285 R-comp will be too much tire for it, but I am planning on having over 400whp and hoping something large like that will hook up.

I also will be setting the car up to run E85/E90.

I want to try to document the whole build on Youtube. I have never tried anything like that, so it might be quite painful to watch for a while.

I think that is everything. I'll update when new parts come in and try to answer any technicial questions to the best of my knowledge.

And a parting gift for the curious. The 2003 Cavalier that I built.


 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
You are going to need (not a complete list but just a brain dump):

  1. The entire subframe with suspension
  2. Steering rack
  3. Steering shaft
  4. Brakes and rotors since you are not using the SS/SC build
  5. Lots of electrical, but since you aren't using the Cobalt ECM and BCM.... You will have to make your electrical system for everything
  6. Seat belts
  7. Pedal box (brakes pedal and gas pedal)
  8. I'm sure there are more
With that being said, you could buy just about any totally trashed or blown up donor car as long as the subframe is intact for next to nothing.
 

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
Going to be a good build. You've got a lot of the goodies already. I also wanted to video document my build but when it comes down to it. I just wanted to get it going and kept forgetting to set stuff up.
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
If you want to use electric power steering you can remove the control box from a Saturn Vue power steering system and use it in place of the control box on a cobalt power steering system.

The Saturn view has a gold metal control box. You can buy aftermarket controllers that will turn on the Saturn view control box and allow you to adjust the steering sensitivity with a dial mounted on the dash .

Epowersteering.com
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
Going to be a good build. You've got a lot of the goodies already. I also wanted to video document my build but when it comes down to it. I just wanted to get it going and kept forgetting to set stuff up.
I am the same way. I get working and forget that I wanted to take pictures/video of what I was doing.

If you want to use electric power steering you can remove the control box from a Saturn view power steering system and use it in place of the control box on a cobalt power steering system.

The Saturn view has a gold metal control box. You can buy aftermarket controllers that will turn on the Saturn view control box and allow you to adjust the steering sensitivity with a dial mounted on the dash .

Epowersteering.com
I did not know that. I'll keep that option in mind.

Where in PA are you located? I am impressed that you have a 2003 in PA that is not all rotted away.o_O
Scranton/Wilkesbarre area. It has been garage kept and a summer only car since 2011/2012.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
You are going to need (not a complete list but just a brain dump):

  1. The entire subframe with suspension
  2. Steering rack
  3. Steering shaft
  4. Brakes and rotors since you are not using the SS/SC build
  5. Lots of electrical, but since you aren't using the Cobalt ECM and BCM.... You will have to make your electrical system for everything
  6. Seat belts
  7. Pedal box (brakes pedal and gas pedal)
  8. I'm sure there are more
With that being said, you could buy just about any totally trashed or blown up donor car as long as the subframe is intact for next to nothing.
Yeah and a few of those are going to be a real bitch getting out of a junkard car. I’d get a wrecked one. So many little odds and ends. Trust me I really wanted to build the car from junkyard parts instead of getting a donor and Adam convinced me not to. I’m glad for that.

Also if you need any help when it comes to registration let me know. Got a good guy in PA for that. You’ll need some stupid stuff like a windshield defroster but it’s not terrible.
 

Brian74

Well-Known Member
Nice! Someone else who wants to do an unconventional build. 400 HP is probably overkill unless you are planning on drag racing. With the F40 and supercharger, your gear ratios and powerband will be spread out much better even for a ~300 HP setup.

You’ll probably be looking at a custom made flywheel? The other challenge will be the electrical.

Many of the parts could be had at a pull your own. Just plan on spending quite a bit of time and money and having to make repeat trips when you find you need new stuff you forgot about or forgot the tool you need to pull it. It is difficult to find MT cobalts as they are not as common as AT. Its nearly impossible to find SS Cobalts at the pull your own junkyard. LKQ is a great source for used SS parts, but you’ll pay premium.

I am not sure about what aftermarket ECM inputs you’ll need. All the cobalts used analog throttle (fly by wire) and in 08 they went from a clutch and brake switches to analog position sensors.

I am buying new hubs, bearings, brakes and rear coilovers, which my $300 donor didn’t have. Id rather just have that all be new stuff for obvious reasons.

I wouldn’t bother with the Willwoods. Stock brakes are adequate for the weight. Good ceramic pads will combat road course fade.

Some guys have said they are not even running the electric power steering.
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member

My kit arrived a few months ago and I have been slowly tinkering on it.

I originally ordered a set of Corbeau FX1 Pro wides for it, but they are 4" too wide to fit in the car. So I ended up having to go with a 18.5" Kirkey instead.


The 1st thing I have been working on is remaking the aluminum side panels out of fiberglass, because the fiberglass will be a much better base to wrap in carbon fiber then the aluminum.




I also picked up 8 yards of blue "camo" carbon fiber. I am hoping that it will be enough since it is a bit hard to get. The flatter pieces I am going to try wrapping myself. It'll be my 1st wrapping something in carbon fiber, so it'll be interesting.


Other updates, I picked up 2 Mishimoto ATV radiators for a 03-09 Kawasaki KFX700 to used as heat exchangers for the supercharger system. The plan is to have a local shop fabricate up side scoops to mount them in. Then I'll make fiberglass/carbon fiber panels to enclose them.

I also have a idea worked out on adding some aero to the front of the car. The idea is to have the radiator mounting reworked in stronger material and 3D print a wing to mount to it.

I am going to wait until I am done making body panels for it before I have it powder coated for 2 reasons:
1. I cannot damage the powder coat with resin if it isn't there.
2. I am undecided on color. I want to see how the carbon fiber looks all done before it gets coated so I make sure I pick the best color to go with it.
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
I spent some time tinkering on the Goblin today. I got the other side panel finished and then made a trip to Lowes for some supplies to mock up a few ideas that have been rattling around in my head.

I got the side "scoops" mocked up for the supercharger's heat exchangers. Yes, exchangers, I am running 2 of them.



A 03-09 Kawasaki KFX700 radiator fits nicely in there. I'll be running one on each side. Partly to balance out the look and also because my personal belief is that there is no such thing as too much cooling for a supercharger's heat exchanger system. There should be enough room behind them if I also decide to run an engine oil and/or transmission cooler. I plan on running wire mesh in the front and rear of the scoops for protection.



I also mocked up a windshield frame since it is looking like I need to run safety glass here in PA.



I am not too happy with the windshield frame design(seems too squared off to me) and I think I will have clearance issues with the "dash" area. So I am going to let the hamsters keep on running on their wheel and see how I can improve it.

The side scoops I am happy with and do not plan on changing the design. I know the look like crap made out of PVC, but some nice 1.25" steel tubing and proper bends will make them look nicer. I will be making panels to enclose the top/bottom/side of it and I will have to move the gas filler location. The gas filler will most likely just move to the top of the passenger side scoop and lay flat in the top panel of the scoop.

Once I get the windshield frame "done" I'll drop the chassis off at a fab shop to get all of the PVC swapped out for steel and welded on. I do not have the tools in my garage to do it myself, nor do I have the skill. Hopefully that bill won't be too big and I can have them powder coat it while it is there. I want to try to get it to the fab shop by the end of the year.
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Good Morning,
While I like the rake on the windshield frame (and I know it's a work in progress). Your steering wheel is going to be right into the glass the way it currently sits. Even if you continue the frame up like the track frames there is just not enough room for your hands between the glass and steering wheel.
Bruce
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
I figured. I'll have to toss the seat and steering column in it next weekend to see if that problem can be solved by spacing the steering wheel towards me. Maybe a quick release hub and a deep dish wheel can help. If it comes down to it, I am not opposed to cutting up the hood and securing it with only hood pins.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
I was thinking the very same thing. You might want to mount up the steering column and install seats and sit in it before you permanently mount the windshield.
 
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