Tony
Well-Known Member
They did, I just didn't want to run the extra wires up and across the dash bar.Your side mirrors didn’t come with signals in them? That was easiest route to go for me.
They did, I just didn't want to run the extra wires up and across the dash bar.Your side mirrors didn’t come with signals in them? That was easiest route to go for me.
I see. I figured since it was all hidden it ended up looking the cleanest. The beauty of building custom cars! You can do it exactly how you want.They did, I just didn't want to run the extra wires up and across the dash bar.
Exactly. Eventually, I plan to have the signals integrated into the headlights, so that will be cleanest, but I just put these on for now.I see. I figured since it was all hidden it ended up looking the cleanest. The beauty of building custom cars! You can do it exactly how you want.
For the tan/ tan blk It does not matter how they are routed, as long as they are connected. For example when you cut out the ABS plug you simply reconnect the two wires together.Tony,
Back in post #27 of this build thread, you bumped into the situation with the tan twisted pair running to the ABS connector, which differed from what was shown in the build guide videos (since they used a base LS). I am right at that exact same spot.
Any chance you could let me in on what you did with the tan/tan-blk twisted pairs that connect to the ABS plug, as well as the other wires you posted about, like the yellow/purple and tan/purple twisted pairs from the ECM plug, and the green/yellow, blueish/yellow, and green/tan twisted pairs from the ABS connector?
If I am reading Lonny's last post in my build thread correctly, the ABS connector and all wires (except the tan/tan-blk twisted pairs, and the single pink wire that runs to the gray fuse block plug) get cut off. But I am not sure what to do with the tan/tan-blk pairs.
My worst nightmare is botching my wiring so bad, I have to source another body harness!!!
Did you get that shift knob or was it on the donor? Kind of what I'm looking for
Thanks. Just bought one. I hate the original look and this will fit the theme perfectlyIt's not stock. I got one just like it for cheap, on eBay.
Maybe mine's a knock-off, don't know?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Manzo-Short-Throw-Shifter-Fits-Cobalt-SS-05-10-Saturn-Ion-Redline-04-07-2-0L/131439883332
Thanks for the heads up. I did consider the cooling issue, but never thought about it generating lift. I hoped that not enclosing it completely (it's only about 50%) would keep it from being a huge issue. I'll definitely keep an eye on it as well as I can, but considering I don't drive too hard (yet?), it should be ok.Tony, just a comment - enclosing the opening on the side of the frame will force all the radiator air to exit out the bottom, this will increase front end lift and may restrict your cooling air flow. You may want to keep an eye on your cooling temps and compare with and without the blocking plates.
Is anything done with the gray wire on the fog light switch? I just patched in the accessories on/off button for fog lights on the DF Button Panel and there was still a gray wire left on the donor fog light switch. Do I get rid of it?If you're donor had fog lamps they would have been turned on and off with a momentary switch that was located on your donor dash. It was an orange wire.
That orange wire activated a relay located in the fuse box. When the fog lamps are on it puts power to the purple wires that came out of the white square plug also located in the fuse box. These purple wires use to go the fog lamps.
If you don't want to use this setup your button panel kit should have come with an extra toggle switch that you can put in the accessory position and use it to switch something on and off.