Turbo fuel pump orientation

[JBINTX]

Great guide. Does the kit come with a new top ring or do you have to modify the donor ring? The slots on my Turbo too ring dont line up.

The top plastic ring on the pump just barely fits inside the studs. You will have to cut one additional notch in the tab to get it to go over the stud. You can see the cut under the top metal ring. I also had to trim the new metal ring included in the kit a little to clear the tank bracket angle.

 

[Ark :D]

I know this is old, but I just went through this and have some pictures to accompany the process to make the re-positioning a but more intuitive. Once you know what's required, it's 'easy' but there's still a risk of pulling out the wiring or cracking plastic pieces - so patience and care are necessary.

I wouldn't recommend using pliers to pull the tubes out, one of the tubes is crimped and it's **** near impossible to know which one without putting the wiring and other plastic pieces at risk. Plus, to pull the tube out with it crimped requires the force necessary to remove King Arthur's sword - and you don't need to work that hard.

First, see the tabs that surround the pump on the outside - unlatch these. Use the springs to your advantage by just pulling up on the tab with some needle nose pliers and the spring pressure will separate the rest.


Next, find the crimped tube and use some vice grips to turn her into a circle again so it can move freely through the black insert and the white part. Then, remove the black insert holding the tubes in place.


Place the once-crimped tube into the other tubes hole and the non-crimped tube into the once-crimped tube position. ie Just swap the tubes, do not change the top white piece and be very careful with the wiring and crimping of the gas line itself when spinning things. There's a plug to the pump itself which can be removed, but there are some very thin wires without a plug - be mindful of those.

Then, replace the black inserts and don't forget to re-crimp the tube. This is what it should look like. Notice the white top centered over the pump housing now. Also notice my gas line is crimped (it can be uncrimped).

Line up the hole on the top white plastic to a stud. You will have to drill this larger or completely out. It's pretty brittle plastic and did not take kindly to my drill bit so I used a cutoff wheel to open it up a bit.

Your bobber should now be pointing towards the passenger seat - free and clear of obstruction. Opened hole at the 8 o' clock position.


Hope this helps!

Very helpful guide!

I attempted this the other day, quite late in the day, but I didn't have much success. That little crimped tube is a tough mamma-jamma. I did eventually get it "round", but it was REALLY tough because the crimp in mine was such a way that getting my vice grips on it in the right way was very difficult. I wonder if it would not just be easier to use an angle grinder to cut the crimp off, leaving as much of the tube intact as possible, then just re-crimp it once the tubes are flipped/swapped?

Also the very thin wires in mine are wrapped around the tubes and lines funny, I can't swap the tubes without putting a lot of stress on those thin wires. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts re: cutting the crimp, positioning those thin wires somehow.

 

[Zoom Zoom]

What I found to make the job a lot less stressful was to pull the float sending unit out while you got it apart, That way the wires aren’t stressed.
The worst part for me was making that flat tube round again !!

 

[Ark :D]

Thanks, I think I've got it now. But I see no clear way to identify how the thin wires go back into the float sending unit. Maybe it doesn't matter which is which? I suspect it does though, if I get it backwards, I'm thinking the float will show full when empty, and empty when full.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Ark, if that happens use a sharpie and make the 'E' into an 'F' and the 'F' into an 'E'.

 

[Ark :D]

Hah! I like the cut of your jib!