What deviations did you all make when it came to the wiring harness videos?

[Fenix Nexen]

My donor is going to be a 2010 2.2 lap auto.
I am wondering if there is any recommendations or future proofing to keep or remove certain wires that the harness video goes over?
I plan on getting the extended frame and hoping to wire up an audio solution and underglow lighting.
Is it fine to just go over the newer videos?: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6Vhsi8HpJ_4IhKgJp8agH0c_eMBMp1Ce
or is the older set of videos one still valid in some way?
Also a list of tools and external links and diagrams that has helped would also be cool.

 

[Ross]

I used the videos to guide my wire harness (add length here, delete length there), but made decisions to delete wires based on my choices.
Having access to electrical harness diagrams for your 2010 2.2 lap auto would be worth the investment.

The videos strip it down to be a slim harness. I wanted to be able to have 12V accessory plugs, so I left both of those in my harness, and worried about where to mount them after I had installed the harness, so I could see how far they can reach, and where it was convenient.
I wish I would have tappped into the stock seat heater circuit, and ran power to the seat area, as I added those into my goblin later on.

I kept the light sensor and dash brightness knob from the Cobalt, but shouldn't have, as the dash never gets bright enough, and is left full on.
I also added a wideband oxygen sensor to the exhaust system, so I can do tuning with HP Tuners. That required tapping into power, and running their wire harness from the exhaust to the dash.

The videos cut the unused wires off right at the connector... I chose to cut them off a few inches from the connector, as this allows me to easily solder a wire back on in the future. Just be careful to keep the ends of the wire insulated/tapped up, to prevent problems.

I debated keeping the stock stereo, but after looking at how big and bulky it was, decided against it. The stock deck is too big, the amp is located remotely, and it has too many speakers for a small goblin. I did keep the power wires to the deck & amp, so those could be available to an aftermarket simple goblin stereo. On my 2006 Cobalt, the red wires with a white strip are power wires and pink wires are ignition switched power wires. So keeping a few of those unused ones labelled is nice for future proofing. The label will allow you to know which fuse it uses.

Maybe take the time to look at the fusebox and BCM to decide which circuits, wires, and fuses, you want to keep, and those you don't need., I marked in red all the circuits I didn't want.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Recommendation to view the new and the old videos. The old videos are based on a NA build and the newer videos have mostly TC(?) based wiring I think. Get a subscription to All Data for your specific year and model for the wiring schematics to have correct connector pin numbers to work with. Label all of your connectors at disconnection. And ask plenty of questions on the forum - most issues have likely been worked at least once.

 

[Ark :D]

The original wiring series is based on a 2.2 while the newer series is based on a 2.0 turbo, so the original is most relevant to your build. I liked the organization of the new series better, so I'd maybe stick with the original videos mostly, while mixing in reference to the newer series.

The only thing I did outside of normal on my harness was, I added turn signal extensions to the headlight bundles. I also added underlighting and audio, but I kept that outside the main harness.

 

[Jmar1622]

I kept the driver door ajar wire and wired in a button to turn off the bcm when I shut it off...and label everything during teardown! Makes it way easier.

 

[Rttoys]

Other than leaving some 12v ignition wires here and there, I also have a pull cable in the center tower, so if I ever have to fish a wire through, I don’t have to take everything apart.

 

[Robinjo]

I wish I had kept the e-brake sensor wiring and somehow gotten it to hook up to the handle. That and possibly the heated seat controls.

 

[Rttoys]

I wish I had kept the e-brake sensor wiring and somehow gotten it to hook up to the handle.

Since you don’t have a newer model, it’s not needed for programming, calibrations and such, so you wouldn’t be gaining anything. The abs and red brake light will still be on due to all the codes. If you need a functional red brake when the park brake is pulled (and to pass state inspection in some states), the switch that is on the handle triggers ground. Simply run a light wherever you want it, attach positive side of the light to ignition and the negative to that switch on the handle. On the handle, it’s just a spade connector you probably have in your electrical drawer. I mounted my red brake light to the boost gauge mount that I made.