What frame mods are needed for the F40 transmission?

95Blitz

Goblin Guru
The Saab I'm getting my spare LSJ out of has a manual trans so it would be the F40. What are the mods that would be needed so the trans would fit into the Goblin? Or is it even worth the hassle?
 

Scott #321

Well-Known Member
Frame has to be modified to allow the trans to fit which I believe is $2500 through DF along with ZZP conversion kit. Is it worth it??? That is a decision only you can make as it comes down to is it worth it for you. I would recommend viewing Desert sasquatch's build log for information as he is in the process.
 

95Blitz

Goblin Guru
I had seen he was going that route, didn't remember the 2500 extra price tag on the frame though. I was thinking about picking it up to sell to someone on here more than anything. But also wondering what it would take. WOW 2600 for the zzp kit with axles.
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
From my build log. I am one of the few who went F40 before DF offered the option and had to figure it out myself

Here is the work they did to fit the F40. The main bar was cut out and replaced with one with a 6* bent in it. The upright bar was cut and a new bent section was added. It is sleeved and will be plug welded so it should be strong. They also remade both angled bars that connect to the main bar. I am not exactly sure why, but I told them to do whatever they thought was best to fit the F40.




They also completely remade the trans mount.




The F40 is the strongest transmission option we have.
 

95Blitz

Goblin Guru
I ended up not pulling the trans, but I did get the clutch and a dual mass flywheel.
 
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RobC76

Well-Known Member
This was my idea of retrofitting an F40 in an F35 chassis. The trans mount will be welded to the back of this plate. It’s just a rough fit for mockup. Does anyone have an opinion - positive or negative I’m ok with it. Just want some opinions.
Thanks
IMG_0342.jpeg
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I would probably add a bottom plate to stiffen it up a little but that depends on exactly what you are doing for the actual transmission mount.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Not sure about a T, in my mind an L with a leg inside.But also welded on the ends. Trying to prevent the flat plate from bending.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Bigfoot Goblin
Your design solution looks to be very sound and should have enough bracing and stiffness to keep the frame tubes located and in place under load. For the bottom of the plate, if there is not enough room on the inside facing the transmission, but a 'L' stiffener on the outside of the middle frame tube, as @Gtstorey has suggested. And make certain there is at least 1.5 inches of overlap with the middle frame tube and the 'L' stiffener when welding it all together. The bottom 2 speedholes (Yeah!) will have to be moved up a bit.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
What you have may be fine. But anytime I’m dealing with an undefined load, I look for simple, lightweight stiffening as added insurance. A T would serve the same purpose. I was just trying to make it a smoother look.
 

RobC76

Well-Known Member
I think I’ll have at least one redesign that’s for certain. I went 1/4” thick on this one and that may be a bit overkill but I thought this is probably not the place to be under built. Elimination or changing bottom speed holes is also a possibility. I made 4 of these in case anyone wanted one lol.
 

RobC76

Well-Known Member
While we are the subject of 6 speed, does anyone have a shifter for the 6 speed they would recommend?
Thanks
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Bigfoot Goblin
I have a brand new Saab 6 speed shifter, it looks just like the Cobalt 5 speed shifter and installs in much the same fashion with the DF supplied hardware.
20240310_115916.jpg

The only difference is the baseplate is slightly different and I would include a DF manufactured plate to weld in place of the existing plate on the tunnel cap.
20240310_115546.jpg


IM me if interested.
 
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