What needs to improve at the Goblin?
- Thread starter mike_sno
- Start date
Dsteinhorst
Well-Known Member
Peronal Heating and cooling options come up often. Many people add audio. Quieter and sexier exhaust is my personal vote.
Mahkoi
Well-Known Member
The biggest improvement my car could use is a better driver. It's way more car than I am driver. At some point I'm sure the rear suspension setup could come into play but I think the upgrade to the solid control arm bushings will suffice for most unless you are really pushing the limits. I did the swap to solid bushings during the build and would recommend the same to someone who is building the car. I'm still in the process of learing the car since it's my first summer on the road with it. Most of my gripes are cosmetic like finding a set of headlights that look right on the car. My headlights are nice and bright but I'm not sold on the looks of them. The other thing I'm going to mess with this winter is exhaust. I've got my own set up but want to refine the looks and sound of it.
Rauq
Goblin Guru
Very few, if any, Goblin builds have been completed that don't exceed the builder's driving abilities. MacPherson may be suboptimal, but to my knowledge only one alternate suspension design has been successfully and necessarily implemented. DF's coilovers on the rear are more than good enough.
That being said, because of the typical condition of Cobalt rear control arm bushings and their impact on handling, Moog K201285 are about as close to a must-do as can be outlined before any and every build.
In my opinion, stock DF non-turbo exhaust (NA or supercharged) is less than inspiring. I put an S257 on mine and make jokes about muffler bearings. Supercharger intake noise definitely makes up for exhaust noise, though.
Cupholders? I 3d printed a set with a combo phone holder.
If I'm being opinionated, the one thing I think many builds are lacking is perspective. I get wanting to "make it yours" or pre-upgrade (?) but any completed Goblin is incredibly cool, unique, and high-performing. I have a passionate disdain for builders putting unnecessary obstacles in the way of the joy that is driving a completed build. Plus, nobody's opinion about what needs to be changed is as valuable as your own after driving your own Goblin. There's not much that's too hard to go back and do if you feel it's necessary after completion... except for a clutch. That one is kind of worth in the beginning if you have any indication you're going to want or need to do one down the road.
That being said, because of the typical condition of Cobalt rear control arm bushings and their impact on handling, Moog K201285 are about as close to a must-do as can be outlined before any and every build.
In my opinion, stock DF non-turbo exhaust (NA or supercharged) is less than inspiring. I put an S257 on mine and make jokes about muffler bearings. Supercharger intake noise definitely makes up for exhaust noise, though.
Cupholders? I 3d printed a set with a combo phone holder.
If I'm being opinionated, the one thing I think many builds are lacking is perspective. I get wanting to "make it yours" or pre-upgrade (?) but any completed Goblin is incredibly cool, unique, and high-performing. I have a passionate disdain for builders putting unnecessary obstacles in the way of the joy that is driving a completed build. Plus, nobody's opinion about what needs to be changed is as valuable as your own after driving your own Goblin. There's not much that's too hard to go back and do if you feel it's necessary after completion... except for a clutch. That one is kind of worth in the beginning if you have any indication you're going to want or need to do one down the road.
Ross
Goblin Guru
I agree with Rauq... just build it, get it on the road, then worry about making changes. Find out what works for you. It is easy to fall into the trap of making lots of changes, and end up going slower, all while trying to go faster. Personally, I like the my seat heaters, as it allows more road driving days available to me, and even thou I enjoy racing, mostly my goblin is a grocery getter, then the gym, then the hardware store, then back home. 
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
the rear suspension is fine unless you are pushing it to the max in a race condition. Many things are fine until you put it in race condition. For the most part, a good alignment and sticky tires are key to a nice drivable goblin. Everything else is just icing on the cake. There are tons of upgrades to fit your personal needs to make it better, but that’s what makes it yours. the base goblin is a very nice, well thought out package.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
This is the path I chose, but I know others have preplanned changes. If you want to add a roof skin, I’d weld those tabs in.
Nothing wrong with the rear suspension at all. If it's good enough for Porsche, it's good enough for the rest of us. Replace the worn out bushings, make sure all your bolts are tight, and get a quality set of adjustable coilovers. It handles great if you can set it up right.
It's a very tricky car to drive. There's nothing wrong with it. It's just the nature of the beast. The short wheelbase, light weight, and rear weight bias means it's touchy on the highway while cruising, and it can be a handful at the limit on the track. It's a lot of car, even for an advanced driver. I've spun mine a couple of times at the track and autoX.
IMO, the only thing that could use improving is the heat recirculation within the cabin. On a 50 degree day it's nice (but I could also get a bigger coat) but on a 90+ degree day, the engine heat coming in from the rear is a LOT. Perhaps I should have bought the engine cover, but I think it's mostly cosmetic. I'm not sure how much heat it would really keep out.
It's a very tricky car to drive. There's nothing wrong with it. It's just the nature of the beast. The short wheelbase, light weight, and rear weight bias means it's touchy on the highway while cruising, and it can be a handful at the limit on the track. It's a lot of car, even for an advanced driver. I've spun mine a couple of times at the track and autoX.
IMO, the only thing that could use improving is the heat recirculation within the cabin. On a 50 degree day it's nice (but I could also get a bigger coat) but on a 90+ degree day, the engine heat coming in from the rear is a LOT. Perhaps I should have bought the engine cover, but I think it's mostly cosmetic. I'm not sure how much heat it would really keep out.
escapepilot
Goblin Guru
Moog rear bushings are a worthwhile upgrade. I replaced mine bushings on new lower arms. Any moderate+ acceleration or deceleration w/o braking introduces toe changes by flexing the rubber bushings.
My bald head requested a roof. The plan was made and tabs welded in before powder coating.
Nutserts or drill and tap for tunnel cover and side panel removal. IMO, the only panels that can be riveted are floor and firewalls.
I think a 4 point harness is nearly a required upgrade. As such, plan for adding a mounting bar at the proper height for the shoulder straps.
Grille. This is optional, but I like the idea of protecting the radiator and it looks better.
My bald head requested a roof. The plan was made and tabs welded in before powder coating.
Nutserts or drill and tap for tunnel cover and side panel removal. IMO, the only panels that can be riveted are floor and firewalls.
I think a 4 point harness is nearly a required upgrade. As such, plan for adding a mounting bar at the proper height for the shoulder straps.
Grille. This is optional, but I like the idea of protecting the radiator and it looks better.
I totally forgot about this one. Yes, a harness (and harness bar) is necessary if you plan to drive angry at all. I had a friend weld in a harness bar for me, but having it done at the factory would absolutely be worth it.
Scott Geyer
Well-Known Member
I agree with Chubbs. Nothing wrong with the suspension. If it's set up correctly, it sticks like glue. If you are into the twisty's like Iam. This car will make you a better driver because you have to be smooth or it will bite you
TravMac
Well-Known Member
A lot has been said about suspension (and agree, it's well beyond many of us to say it's "bad"), but one thing to count on spending good money on is a good wheel and tire. Nothing will ruin your experience more than spinning around like you're on ice because you opted for some cheap "performance all seasons". Luckily, this is a choice you get to make as a builder up front, and can do yourself a lot of good from the right decisions.