V1 Another ride height post

[Robinjo]

I searched and didn't find a clear answer, so I'll ask the question that has most likely been addressed. I want to really dial in my suspension this winter and think I need to get this really on before playing with the alignment more.

On the rear when adjusting ride height, where are measuring level from? The lower control arm? If this, then from the bottom of the control arm (as the top has curves)? The axle?

On the front, measuring level on the upper or lower control arm?

 

[Gtstorey]

I think you are overthinking it a little on the rear. In general get them "level" but really just make sure they are the same with "normal" weight in the car. I don't think it changes the height much wherever you measure.

Front is lower control arm.

 

[Sebnuts]

The conclusion I came to with my forum research was level tie rods. I do not have a stock setup though so take it with a grain of salt

 

[Rttoys]

The conclusion I came to with my forum research was level tie rods.

this ^^. Make the rear tie rods level and go from there.

fronts, you can’t do much with as far as height goes.

 

[Dsteinhorst]

fronts, you can’t do much with as far as height goes.

Several of us have swapped to longer shocks either for the extra clearance or so we can have more shock travel in one direction or another. My front tie rods are level with the longer shocks.

 

[Rttoys]

Several of us have swapped to longer shocks either for the extra clearance or so we can have more shock travel in one direction or another. My front tie rods are level with the longer shocks.

I have done the same and use 225/475 springs up front. I’m not sure if he wanted to go that far.

 

[Gtstorey]

I just set my up on the front with level lower control arms by cranking down on the springs and am satisfied with the results. It all depends on what you are using the car for and where you are driving.

 

[Robinjo]

I believe my fronts are very, very close to being level. Maybe a slight tweak or so.

The rears I need to measure. I used the recommended heights during the build but found one of my spanner collars loose. I just want to check it all out and know what/where to measure if they are off. I'd love to corner balance it after that and am trying to sneak my Goblin onto the alignment rack at work to dial the rest of it in. If I can't, then it's the string again which has worked well thus far.

Several of us have swapped to longer shocks either for the extra clearance or so we can have more shock travel in one direction or another. My front tie rods are level with the longer shocks.

Maybe in the future but not at this time for me. I'm just trying to dial in the stock Goblin setup first.

 

[Dale E]

I need understanding and clarification, please! I do all my set ups by measurement and visualization. I do not use computer aided stuff.

My take on this: The donor Cobalt had a designed ride height and suspension settings. I am certain that Lonny and Adam in their Goblin designing had a ride height depicted on computer design images. That is why they instruct the builders to set up the front lower control arms to be level. This in my opinion sets the Goblin ride height, and sets a front roll center (due to the angles of the LCA and UCA and contact patch) Let's say your ride height is 5 - 5.5 inches. This is the distance from the ground to the body sill or lowest frame member.

For the Goblin builders this is your key starting point for everything else suspension adjusting related later.

Different size - diameter wheels can lower or raise your ride height. 2008 Cobalt 16 inch wheel /tires are about 24 - 25 inches tall. ( Opinion ) The Goblin would do very well on 205 - 245 wide tires. If you want big tires things in your suspension may change in respect to measuring contact patch and slip angles. Using spacers also changes these and suspension changes need to be addressed.

The Goblin rear drive shaft and tie rod (steering) should be near to level and should also swing on close to the same arc - bump steer consideration. In the front the steering arm should closely mimic the arc of the LCA. Set it up this way and measure to see where you are for your CHASSIS ride height.

Suspension settings are different from ride height?? - although you do adjust the suspension to achieve ride height??

Have Goblin at near driving weight -- some fuel, all accessories, driver weight.

Change caster angle -- revisit camber and toe settings
Change camber -- revisit caster and toe settings
This just gets repeated with every change you make, so devote a lot of time getting settings where you want them. Take Goblin for a drive, then repeat adjustment regime. Corner balancing shift weight diagonally front to rear (mostly). You can get this close without scales, but scales are best used.

----- change one thing at a time and drive test ---- otherwise you won't know what helped and didn't.

For street driving very close settings are okay - just don't wear out the tires with wrong settings. For racer folks more accuracy will benefit.

Now, for the really nitty gritty tuning you will get into bump steer, Ackerman, roll center, pitch center, center of gravity, tire pressures (since tires are also springs) and more. A lot of stuff on the internet about all these. It can get complicated and racer folks like Ferrari, Lamborghini, McLaren, Porsche, Lotus have spent millions on suspension design and set up.

I set a goal for my sons when auto crossing. Drive the car as built/bought until you can beat or be in the top three fast time of day. Then I will make changes to the car. It took them two years, then things got changed. If I sold the car today the new owner would no doubt make changes to their liking and taste! It took eight years to go to a wider than 225 tire.

Great luck to you all - have fun - take your time - you'll get there!!