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Are flywheel bolts needed?

Rauq
Are flywheel and pressure plate bolts needed for a clutch kit replacement on LNF/F35?
Both are recommended.
Secondary, what are the pros/cons for installing an aluminum flywheel?
Pros, quicker rev up and down, easier rev matching, lighter on synchros, replaceable friction surface. Cons, is it's easier to stall due to reduced rotational mass when starting off from a stop, can make more noise. The easier-to-stall factor is greatly diminished due to the Goblin's low weight, though. I love mine.
Last questions, is there anything else I should do/should look at while the engine is down?
Rear main seal if you're pulling the trans. I'll never be easier. If you have the engine out, that's an easy time to do a timing set, if you can figure out how to prevent the crank from moving so you can break the balancer bolt free. The timing chain guide bolt and early revision tensioners are both known Ecotec weak points but are easily replaced now or later.
 
G
I found grade 10 (actually the metric =) bolts of the right thread x length at autozone (in the misc help section) and ground the heads down on a bench grinder.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Not to be argumentative but be careful, grinding on graded bolts can reduce their tensile strength if done improperly. The heat from grinding must be removed/cooled very slowly to keep the graded strength. Air cooling is sometimes too quick and quenching will make bolts brittle. I would opt to pay a few $$ more and get the correct bolts for peace of mind - IMO.
 
Ross
Did you get flywheel bolts with a shoulder on them?
The ARP bolts have an 8mm shoulder before the threads start... better for the flywheel to rest against, my flywheel is 9mm thick at that spot.
The stock flywheel bolts are at the bottom of this picture, with the ARP bolts above them. I too had to grind the heads down on the ARP bolts, but the Polaris bolts should be the right GM size.
42092
 
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