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V1 Ark's City Goblin #187 (2008 SS/TC donor)

Ark :D
Refresh my memory, have you tried swapping the power train relay out with another one?

I would pull the relay out and start doing some diagnostics in the fuse box.

1. Turn your key on and verify you have < 5 ohms on pin 85 of the fuse box pin and chassis ground. Verify that it goes open with the key off.
2. Verify you have battery voltage on pin 86 at all times on the fuse box pin.
3. Verify you have battery voltage on pin 87 at all times on the fuse box pin.
4. Verify you have < 5 ohms between pins 85 and 86 on the actual relay pins.
5. Run a jumper wire between pins 87 and 30 in the fuse box. This will completely bypass the ECM signal to turn on that relay. You can do that to see if that makes a difference in the overall picture.

The relays have pin numbers on the bottom.

I will try to get this testing done after work tonight.

I can read, I swear!
 
B
So what I see on the wiring diagram does not actually match what I see in my fuse box.

If you're standing at the back of the car and facing the front, the two pins towards the front of the car both have 12 volts on them. The pin on the left closest to you (towards rear of the car) should read about 42 ohms with the key on and a lot more with the key off. No jumper required to get the 42 ohm, ECM value.
 
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Ark :D
Ok, so, I made a significant discovery that has probably invalidated the last ~4 pages of this thread.


It still won't crank, but I think I might be a lot closer (or at least, heading in a more correct direction now) than before.

What I discovered was this: I typically use an impact drill with a 7mm hex head to drive the bolts back into the fuse block. When I just did so this evening, I noticed that it felt like one of the five bolts was resisting more, causing the impact to click earlier. So I put the 7mm hex head in a regular screwdriver, and tried it by hand. In short, the threads of that particular bolt hole had some crud in them somehow. I bet you can guess which bolt it was?.... so now, my current behavior can be seen in the video above.

This car is turning me gray faster than my wife could ever hope to.
 
B
Pull the power train relay out of the fuse box, run a jumper from one corner to the other corner, turn your key on and see if that makes a difference. If not, repeat that process on the other corners. One of those combinations should "fix" all of your problems at least from a testing perspective as long as you don't have any physical connector issues like what you found above.
 
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Ark :D
It was this guy, he was only hand tight. No leak now. But also no crank. I will have to focus on the clutch position sensor next.
 

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Ark :D
From back on page 21:

Check your grounds.
Hook a long wire to your negative battery post and touch it to each of you grounds lugs while the key is on.
Check data wire continuity by hooking one probe of a continuity checker to one of the tan data wires at the OBDII, and the other probe touching the data wire at the ECM.
Repeat this for the other data wire.
If you have an RPD it has to be plugged in for the engine to run.
Make sure all of your green low speed data wires are hooked together.
Does your throttle respond to the accelerator pedal?
Does the fuel pump ever prime?
Did you tighten all five of the fuse box connector bolts?
Have you changed ignition switches, keys, BCMs or ECMs?

Listen to Lonny, guys. This man knows his ****.
 
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