V1 Ark's City Goblin #187 (2008 SS/TC donor)

[Ark :D]

That might be a problem, I don't have a cluster button set from DF yet, it wasn't shipped with my kit, so those are just bare wires right now. Can I ground one of the wires to get the info up? Haven't looked at how the wiring is done on those, yet.

*edit*

I think this post is what I needed to know. I'll work on this later.

 

[Briann1177]

I would think that if your tachometer worked when you started it up, then your coolant sensor should be working too.

 

[bradr]

I would think that if your tachometer worked when you started it up, then your coolant sensor should be working too.

Good call. I always have to go for the most complicated solution....

 

[Ark :D]

Just confirmed, the tachometer definitely works, so there's that.

 

[Ark :D]

So after unwrapping my harness quite a ways, I found a light gray wire that's tied in a knot, coming from the BCM end of the harness (not necessarily from the BCM, just from that direction). I tied it in a knot so obviously I intended to do something with it at some point, but must have not addressed it. I will try to track it down in the new videos, but in the meantime, does anyone know off the top of their head, what this wire might be?

 

[Briann1177]

Doesn't ring an immediate bell. I can look it up if you have the connector it goes to.

 

[Ark :D]

Doesn't ring an immediate bell. I can look it up if you have the connector it goes to.

Looks like it goes to BCM X1 (if that's the one that DOESN'T have the high speed twisted pairs in it). BAR-AIR's notes say it's probably pin D9.

 

[Ark :D]

Looks like it goes to BCM X1 (if that's the one that DOESN'T have the high speed twisted pairs in it). BAR-AIR's notes say it's probably pin D9.

Ugh, **** it, nevermind. I split open the BCM X1 connector and figured out what it is. It's the wire I soldered onto my previously accidentally-removed parking brake ground. Verified by touching ground with the gray wire rapidly as I watched my BRAKE light go on and off.

Sigh.

 

[Briann1177]

I thought the brake light wire was light blue?

 

[Ark :D]

I thought the brake light wire was light blue?

It was, but I cut it a long time ago and did not rematch it from within my big grab bag of wires. I should have just labeled it on the spot, obviously.

But now my most promising lead is gone! Blah!

 

[Mayor West]

I thought that was the clutch wire?

 

[Ark :D]

I thought that was the clutch wire?

Nope. Just me being a lunkhead by cutting/removing a wire accidentally, then fixing it later with a different-color wire (and forgetting to label it, of course).

 

[Mayor West]

Nope. Just me being a lunkhead by cutting/removing a wire accidentally, then fixing it later with a different-color wire (and forgetting to label it, of course).

Come on Ark you know I did that exact same thing lolololol I can't wait to find my orange random wires later on debugging mine.

 

[Ark :D]

Tan: no voltage
Light Green: anywhere from 1v to 4.5v or so, based on the potentiometer's position
Gray: constant 5v

One thing that would really help me is if someone with a manual could check their ignition-on voltage on all three pins of the clutch sensor. Mine are above and I'd just like to compare against someone with a working ignition.

Come on Ark you know I did that exact same thing lolololol I can't wait to find my orange random wires later on debugging mine.

Hopefully your memory is better than mine!

 

[Ark :D]

Oh yeah, one other thing: does my tachometer working confirm that my data wires from ECM to BCM are functional?

 

[Briann1177]

Oh yeah, one other thing: does my tachometer working confirm that my data wires from ECM to BCM are functional?

Just based on my understanding of things and what I'm seeing from your videos, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that everything is completely normal with your low speed and high speed data wires. I don't think there is an issue with any of that. All of your dash lights work, no more power steering message, fuel gauge works, tach works, etc.

As far as clutch sensor voltages, while I can't easily measure mine for you, I do remember having numbers very similar to what you posted above. One wire was ground, one wire was a 5V reference, and the other wire varied between ~1V and ~4.something V. I'm also going out on a limb and say that this is also normal. The only unknown is what voltage your ECM is expecting to see when you press your pedal down. That varies between each vehicle which is why you have to do a learn procedure when you swap it out. I know you said you're using the original sensor so it should in theory still be calibrated.

If it's not any of the above, then the only other area of potential issue is the crank circuit.

 

[Ark :D]

Just based on my understanding of things and what I'm seeing from your videos, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that everything is completely normal with your low speed and high speed data wires. I don't think there is an issue with any of that. All of your dash lights work, no more power steering message, fuel gauge works, tach works, etc.

As far as clutch sensor voltages, while I can't easily measure mine for you, I do remember having numbers very similar to what you posted above. One wire was ground, one wire was a 5V reference, and the other wire varied between ~1V and ~4.something V. I'm also going out on a limb and say that this is also normal. The only unknown is what voltage your ECM is expecting to see when you press your pedal down. That varies between each vehicle which is why you have to do a learn procedure when you swap it out. I know you said you're using the original sensor so it should in theory still be calibrated.

If it's not any of the above, then the only other area of potential issue is the crank circuit.

Good to know about the data wires. I figured that was the case, but I'm glad to hear some confirmation on that. My OBDII scanner still won't connect to the Cobalt/Goblin, but I am not too concerned about that right now.

On the clutch wires, it struck me that I never tested to see if tan had continuity to ground. So I just checked, and it does. Additionally, tan at the fuel pump also does. I sort of remember I was concerned while working through the videos about the tan wire ... but I believe I am in the clear on this one, as well.

I will have to turn my attention to the crank circuit. Since it starts when I forcefully send 12v to the starter solenoid, and when I jump the CRNK relay, I at least have somewhere to start looking.

Brian, thank you for your continued attention and assistance in this thread. I really appreciate it ... I've noticed I now have the longest build thread on the forum. I'm not exactly proud of that achievement!

 

[Lonny]

The tan clutch wire should not have continuity to ground, it should have continuity to the tan that goes to your fuel sending unit.

 

[Briann1177]

The tan wire connects to a ground within the ECM.

Do you have the tan wire running to a chassis ground or the ECM?

Ark's City Goblin #187 (2008 SS/TC donor)

WOOHOO!!! I knew you'd get it going! I need to see a little more enthusiasm!! Well done sir!!! ATTA BOY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Trust me, my wife is still trying to dry off her face and I'm about a half bottle of wine deep right now. I'll sleep good tonight!

dfkitcar.com

 

[Ark :D]

At this point, it feels like it just HAS to be the clutch position sensor or the wiring that runs to it. Now that I know the tan wire goes to pin 9 of the ECM connector, I will test continuity from there to the clutch pedal and to the fuel pump harness after work and see what happens.

I feel like it MUST be the clutch sensor or wiring because the car starts and runs like a racehorse if I just jump the CRNK relay. Tach works, fuel level works, no power steering message.

*edit* I definitely don't have the tan running to chassis ground, no.

*edit 2* My reasoning for checking whether the tan had continuity with ground was, just the logic of electricity says that for a complete circuit, the tan would have to be grounded since the other two wires at the clutch sensor carry positive voltage.